First 7.3 - 235hp and around 450 torque

Second 7.3 - 255hp or so and about 475 torque

I cant remember if they introduced a 3g or not

New 6.0, around 305hp and 510 torque.

 

Hi All
the biggest diff is the trans way better on the 6.0.The as for power all can be modified for way mor power though the 6.0 will have the most.If you want more info go to thedieselstop.com it most fords

 

I have 2003 f350 crew cab long box with 3" lift and bigger tires, I like that way it pulls trailers and still has lots of power. Between taking my 6 place sled trailer to the mountain or if i'm pulling my 26' enclosed car race trailer (loaded), and get 16-17 miles per gallon. pulling becomes alot easier with air bag on rear axles increses gas mileage. I've had lots of trucks and nothing pulls or has the power like a f 350. Plus i just order a custom 2004 f 350 so we'll see how that turns out.

 

I have a 97 350 CC and love it. I have 33" tires, 3.73 gears, and get 15-16 mpg unloaded going to and from work, 14 pulling a load. My 97 is rated at 225hp and 400 ftlbs, the 95 and 96's are a little less. The supperduties 99+ with the 7.3 are allot more responsive due to more power, different turbo setup, and most have 3.73 gears, they also have an improved tranny. The f250 4x4 superduties also have a solid front axle verses on the older f250's they have the twin traction beam setup that eats up tires. Check out the diesel stop, lots of good information and helpfull people. What year/body style are you looking at?

 

I have a 99.5 F-350 single rear wheel crew cab long box 4wd. Love it. I pull a 24' enclosed car trailer with ease. If you are shoping for one I would definitly check out the site in the previous post, a lot of good info in their faq's and forums. Just watch out, it is just like anywhere else, a little problem with the truck sometimes turns into an all out "Ford should recall this thing" session.

For the most part the only real things to watch out for are:

The front end. They do tend to like to eat ball joints. Ford does not use greasable ones from the factory. Mine where shot when I bought the truck with only 52K on them. There is also no shortage of threads on getting them to track straight. Basically take them to a real alignment shop, not a dealer. The factory spec is rather wide.

Auto Trans behind a 7.3 seems to be a sticking point for a lot of folks, they would call it weak. For the most part take care of it and don't overload. Common sense stuff. A lot of guys seem to push these things like a Semi intill they find the weak point. If does have a drain plug on the pan. A lot of us like to change out a few quarts of trans fluid during oil changes to keep things fresh.

PS pump seem to be a sticking point for some folks. For the most part the brake booster uses fluid pressure from the PS system to assist in braking. Some trucks have a little difficulty turing the front wheels if stopped with your foot on the brake. Others complain of a whine in the pump. Mine had a little of each that was taken care of, for the most part, by flusing the PS system and replacing the fluid. I could see the difference in the old and new fluid, it was simply time to change it. Took about 15 minutes.

Auto Trans in certain 01 or 02 models. I can not recall but Ford changed a valve of some type in the trans for a period of time in 01 or 02. Caused a lot of problems, enough where they changed it mid year back to the old version. It did not apply to me so I have not bothered to remember it. Ask on the board to make sure you know how to ID the truck should you buy used.

Front Brakes. I think this has gotten better from my model on up as the caliper was updated. Basically they like to warp rotors. Some say it is because the caliper does not retract causing the pad to ride on the rotor building up heat as you drive. I had porblem on mine, warped them within a couple of weeks of a turning and new pads. No real problem, just an upkeep issue. If you do the brakes use good quality pads, turn the rotors, clean and lube all friction points on the caliper. Not had a problem since them. Also, keep the wheels torqued evenly and correctly to keep flex out of the rotor hat.

BTW, make sure the truck has a spare. Mine was ordered without one, I was told it was an option at least in 99. It did not even have the winch up under the bed. Got me on that one, not sure why anyone would not have a spare. Oddly enough it had the winch crank stored under the hood along with the tire tool and it did come with the factory jack. I had to dig up a rim, tire, and the winch.

Brent

 

OK, dude... you win!





Bigger.

 

Hey, just bought a 2001 F 350 powerstroke with 6''? lift and 35'' tires. 5speed says it's a 7.1 L any body know problems or facts on this truck? Will post pictures soon. tsa538 ? are ball joints hard to replace? Think mine are shot because steering wheel has alot of play. Thanks in advance for any help or info.

 

I think youre torque numbers are a lil low..

 

I have a 2001 F350 4WD crew cab dually diesel w/chip and 4" SS exhaust. It was 250 hp stock and now is 350, according to the shop. It is a hot rod unloaded. Depending on the wind, speed and terrain, I have gotten anywhere from 14.something mpg to 21.something mpg, but usually it is in the 16.something range. With a high slide in camper, I'll get 11 to 14, depending on the wind. With a 36' very high 5th wheel with double slides, I'll get 10 to 11. Other than with the slide in, the other figures are before the recent addition of the 4" exhaust. On a January trip to Colorado from Missouri, got 11.something at 70 mph across Kansas, 13.something round trip from Denver to Steamboat, and 14.3 from Denver to Goodland, KS. The truck is wonderful.

My local diesel shop (that added the chip and exhaust) says that the 7.3 is vastly superior to the 6.0 and that the hp and torque ratings aren't comparable, since the 6.0's were rated at a much higher rpm. He owns both a 6.0 and a 7.3 himself, and said that Ford came out with the 6.0 only because their 7.3 couldn't meet new emission requirements and it was just a marketing scam to indicate inflated hp and torque ratings in order to sell them.

Get a crew cab if you might haul 4-6 people or 2 people and lots of gear. The dually really adds to the stability of the towing platform and is a safety feature. This past summer I towed my fiver to South Carolina and a week or so after returning a buddy noticed one of my inside tires in the rear was flat. Turned out, I had a sidewall blow out on the way home and I didn't even know it. Had I had single rear wheels, it would have been an accident for sure. On the other hand, duallys get a couple of mpg's worse and single rear wheels.

All in all, it's a wonderful truck that should last me from now on, since I'm putting less than 10K miles on per year for play. It's roomy, very comfortable, extremely powerful and gets pretty good mileage. What more could you want?

 

Well, once again, late to the party but nevertheless, here's my view of the wonderful Ford Crew Cab.

We USED to have an 83 Ford F-250 with a 460 gasser. It was a long bed, but not long ENOUGH for towing (in my opinion). The longer the wheellbase, the better for towing (and the worse for off-roading). No room in the cab for 'stuff'.

So along comes this fabulous deal on a used 97 F-350 Crew Cab Powerstroke with a utility bed. This was back in 98. We JUMPED on it and have been deliriously happy ever since. Now, instead of trying to put stuff in the back of the bed where we can get to it if we want it while travelling, we just toss stuff in the back seat, and my wife now has room down by her feet (where we USED to stack everything else we thought we might need while on the road). If wifey is happy, EVERYone is happy... My only complaint is that the "Grand Challenger" utility bed is a bit on the heavy side (understatement of the year!) and contributes to uphill problems and a few more stops at the fuel island than others of the same 'breed'. But hey, it gets the job done.

If you want to see it, one of the pictures in my gallery shows our setup.