my 2000 blaster seems to run pretty good most of the time.it is all stock and seems to run good on straights and most corners.on occasion though i usually go around corners in 2nd gear,i will let off my throttle and coast around,when i'm almost through i hit the throttle but instead of revving up it doesn't have the power it should right away.i don't think it is the jetting because it just does it some time at low throttle and goes good on straights.do you think i am going to slow and should go to first gear,or keep giving a little gas on corners?please help!also it does it other times too.i will give it steady throttle about half way like on whoops and then i gun the throttle to jump the last one and it puts a little and then revs up.it is nothing major but it could make the difference between first and second in a race!thanks for the help-tyler-

 

on a blaster, when you hit the gas hard and it is at low rpms and isn't it 1st gear, it usually lugs until it hits the powerband. Thats how 2 strokes are.

 

You might try feathering your clutch in the turn to stay on the pipe..difficult to give a definitive answer..just trial & error.

 

so i can do nothing or nothing is wrong with the 4 wheeler?i just have to stay in the powerband more right?what are some cheap mods to help low end power.i ordered 18-11-8 turf tamer tires on douglas rims,also if i order a reed spacer and active tech reeds will this help a bit?what are some other mods?

 

Experiment with it by riding on a flat straight,in 2nd gear and go from steady 1/4 throttle to quick full throttle, then steady 1/2 throttle to quick full throttle. If you don't get crisp response...does it sputter and gurgle before it picks up? Does it kind of hesitate (booowang sound) before it picks up? If it sputters a little, move the clip on your needle up one notch. If it is hesitating, move the clip down one notch. If you haven't done so, you should take some plug readings to make sure your main jet is right on, then dial in the 1/4 to 3/4 throtle response. Depending on altitude and climate, factory jetting vs. "dialing it in" can make a big difference in throttle response.

Steve

 

I have a 2000 Blaster and I had the same problem. What I did was, I installed Boyesen Power Reeds, 9 Uni Filtered Air Vents, went from a #230 stock main jet to a #240 main jet and moved my needle jet to the third groove(opening it). Guess what, No more bogging down and it rocks. I ordered everything from Dennis Kirk. They don't have the catalog online yet for 2000 so call them at
1-800-328-9280

1-Boyesen Power Reeds pn# 18-369
2-packs of Uni Filtered Air Vents pn# 30-1545
1-Mikuni Main Jet pn# 17-110

All this was done for about 42 bucks including shipping.
Check out my site to see how to install the Uni Filters. http://blastermaniacs.homestead.com/Home.html

 

i rode again today and my blaster ran really good.it was only in the upper 50's though.when i have this prob. it is usually in the 80's so i think it has to do with the clip.it isn't hesitating at all just when i hit the throttle it sputters like i will try and pop a wheelie but instead of it revving and the front end coming up it sputters but today i road and it ran fine.what can be the problem?

 

If the stuttering is not present in cooler conditions, that is an indication of a rich mixture. Cooler air is more dense, which provides more air to the air/fuel mixture, therefore leaning the mixture. The hotter it gets the thinner the air, which provides more fuel, therefore making the mixture richer. Air temperature is a huge factor when optimizing performance of a two stoke engine. The racers will change jetting all day long according to temp. change. As you can see, a 30 degree difference in temp. makes the bike run leaner. It's always better to be too rich than too lean...too lean will burn a hole in the piston(don't worry, temp change on a correctly jetted bike will still be safe). That's why the manufacturer must jet the bike rich from the factory. You really need to take some plug readings to know exactly how rich or lean you're running. I'm new to this forum, but there are probably many links to info on jetting. I suggest you spend some time reading up on the subject. Once you learn it you will be able to keep your bike tuned right for any condition.

Basically you need to warm the bike, install a new plug, run at wide open throttle (WOT) in 3rd or 4th for about 15 seconds (always make sure you know what size main you have installed , ie better start rich than lean), pull in the clutch and switch the ignition off at the same time (plug chop) while at (WOT). Remove the plug and look down at the bottom portion of the ceramic. If it's a black ring, you're rich...install one size leaner main jet and repeat. If it's white, you're lean...install one size larger main and repeat. You are looking for a mocha brown color at the bottom of the ceramic. Once you get the main jet dialed in, if you still have a stutter or hesitation at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle you will have to move the needle clip up for stutter or down for hesitation.

First thing to do, if you are mechanically inclined, is get the carb apart and find out the main jet #, buy a few sizes leaner and richer and you're ready to get rid of that stutter. It's not hard, once you've done this process a few times you can take your carb apart and change the jet, put a new plug in all in 10 minutes or so. If you don't feel comfortable taking the carb apart...please use this info as understanding only and take it to a shop.

Steve