bad to ride hard during break in?
#31
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when I grow up
Thanks stebob. Maybe Froooo will learn something yet??? Or not!!! Ha ha ha ha.
Froooo, from the sound of it, you must have broke your y in by idling it in the garage. Smart move, keep up the good work!!! I bet you MX it with the air cleaner off to pick up power.
Well, enough fun and laughs, I have to go fix an outboard...............are you ready.........engine!!!! Ha ha ha ha ha................................................
#32
#33
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Originally posted by: RaptorRacer1
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for breaking it in. They put the instructions in there for a reason, because they want to reduce the amount of warranty claims. It takes time for all the moving parts to polish themselves. Things will wear out quicker if you don't.
Just think - on a new car they recommend breaking it in over the first 1000-5000 miles. This is necessary to seat the rings and valves. Performance and fuel economy will suffer if it is not broken in properly.
I would like to see someone take 2 stock quads, break one in slow, one really hard and fast, and then dyno them. I bet there would be a difference.
JMO,
RR1
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for breaking it in. They put the instructions in there for a reason, because they want to reduce the amount of warranty claims. It takes time for all the moving parts to polish themselves. Things will wear out quicker if you don't.
Just think - on a new car they recommend breaking it in over the first 1000-5000 miles. This is necessary to seat the rings and valves. Performance and fuel economy will suffer if it is not broken in properly.
I would like to see someone take 2 stock quads, break one in slow, one really hard and fast, and then dyno them. I bet there would be a difference.
JMO,
RR1
#34
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Well I have to agree with Moto man here........when I got my new Johnsred chain saw I didnt take it easy on it...I brought it out and cut wood! I have been cutting wood for 9 years with it...about 6 or 7 cords a year gets bucked up with this saw [and its been lent out so add more] and its held pinned, wide open for the hole time its running! This saw has never given me any troubles at all, EVER! Could I expect more from it? No>. Did i even consider takeing it easy on it ? NO>. All I ever did was not run it to long at one time at first and ran a little richer mix for the first couple of tanks!
#35
#36
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Personally I think 3-4 heat cycles are enough to break it in with brief full throttle runs & avoid bogging it & letting it idle too long.
Also, if it isn't smoking out the exhaust, then the rings seated quickly & you can expedite the process.
I also agree that letting it warm up is crucial to long engine life, regardless of how you break it in.
I think taking it easy when breaking it in is more important to hear if any bolts came loose, like cylinder or head bolts, lol.....
The basics tells us that metal expands when heated & contracts when cools, so obviously it needs to do that a few times to settle into the sweet spot!! Just like when you install headers, after a few miles you need to retorque them due to the metal contracting & expanding but after that its ready to rip. Loose header bolts has nothing to do with atv piston & cam break in, but the metal still needs to settle before it is ready for the long haul....
Most car manuals recommend varying the rpm & that brief full throttle runs will help with longevity so the engine can handle it when you really open it up so there is a lot of truth behind the fact that the engine needs to experience the revs before it can handle them.
I know top fuel drag racers don't take very long to break in engines either, but then again, they only have about an hour between races to do so.
JMO...
Also, if it isn't smoking out the exhaust, then the rings seated quickly & you can expedite the process.
I also agree that letting it warm up is crucial to long engine life, regardless of how you break it in.
I think taking it easy when breaking it in is more important to hear if any bolts came loose, like cylinder or head bolts, lol.....
The basics tells us that metal expands when heated & contracts when cools, so obviously it needs to do that a few times to settle into the sweet spot!! Just like when you install headers, after a few miles you need to retorque them due to the metal contracting & expanding but after that its ready to rip. Loose header bolts has nothing to do with atv piston & cam break in, but the metal still needs to settle before it is ready for the long haul....
Most car manuals recommend varying the rpm & that brief full throttle runs will help with longevity so the engine can handle it when you really open it up so there is a lot of truth behind the fact that the engine needs to experience the revs before it can handle them.
I know top fuel drag racers don't take very long to break in engines either, but then again, they only have about an hour between races to do so.
JMO...
#37
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