99 warrior problem
#12
#14
99 warrior problem
stswanson. you say it vibarates? well this is what i would do. even though your batter is new, it could be bad. so i would hook it all up. i would jump it from soemthing like another quad or a car. after all they are all 12 volts. i would jump it battery to battery and try to start it. if it starts well then it is your new battery. if not well something else. i would next try by-pass or jump the solnoid with a peice of wire or a screw driver. it should start. if not,, i would get a longer peice of wire and i would jump it direct from the battery to the starter. this off all things should turn the starter over. if it does not turn the starter from the battery to the starter, then i would have to say it is the starter because you by-passed everything inbetween. but if it dose, which i think it would, i would work my way back and find the problem. i know a guy who bought a battery for his quad that was way too small and did not have the amps to turn over his 450 and sort of had the same issues as you did. so make sure you have the right size battery
good luck!
good luck!
#16
99 warrior problem
The battery can easily be working, but not have the necessary charge required to turn over the engine. Get yourself a cheap volt meter, and check the DC voltage coming out. You should see 12V +. Most fully charged 12V batts will read around 13.5, to 13.75V when fully charged. The volt meter will also save you a lot of "what if"s. You can check the presence of voltage all through your wiring path, to see where its getting left behind.
#17
99 warrior problem
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: oblytr8
The battery can easily be working, but not have the necessary charge required to turn over the engine. Get yourself a cheap volt meter, and check the DC voltage coming out. You should see 12V +. Most fully charged 12V batts will read around 13.5, to 13.75V when fully charged. The volt meter will also save you a lot of "what if"s. You can check the presence of voltage all through your wiring path, to see where its getting left behind.</end quote></div>
he's right, it can run your lights but not turn your bike over.
when you bought it did you charge it for 12 hours before you put it in the bike? if not it will work for a little while, then loose its nessicary charge... just a thought.
The battery can easily be working, but not have the necessary charge required to turn over the engine. Get yourself a cheap volt meter, and check the DC voltage coming out. You should see 12V +. Most fully charged 12V batts will read around 13.5, to 13.75V when fully charged. The volt meter will also save you a lot of "what if"s. You can check the presence of voltage all through your wiring path, to see where its getting left behind.</end quote></div>
he's right, it can run your lights but not turn your bike over.
when you bought it did you charge it for 12 hours before you put it in the bike? if not it will work for a little while, then loose its nessicary charge... just a thought.
#18
#19
99 warrior problem
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: stswanson
i din't charge it for 12 hours, but for 2 instead because the place where we bought it from said it only needs a 2 hour charge after adding the acid.</end quote></div>
You can't fully charge a battery in 2 hours unless we are talking "AA" batteries. Charge the battery for a full 12 hours.
Lights do not need much power. Someone here already gave you a great test. Grab some jumper cables and try to jump it from a "running" car. If it works it is your battery.
here are some tips for you.
When charging conventional batteries, loosen vent caps and ventilate charging area. A buildup of hydrogen and oxygen in the battery or in the charging area can create an explosion hazard.
If the battery feels hot to the touch during charging, STOP. Allow the battery to cool before charging again. Heat damages the plates, and a battery that is too hot can explode.
NEVER put the red sealing cap back on the battery once you take it off. If you do, gases will become trapped and could explode.
Make sure the vent tube isn't kinked or blocked. Otherwise, gases could build up and explode.
Properly connect the charger to the battery: positive charger lead to positive battery post and negative charger lead to negative battery post. Unplug the charger or turn it off before you disconnect the leads, which will cut down on the chance of sparks.
ABSOLUTELY NO SMOKING, SPARKS OR FLAMES AROUND CHARGING BATTERIES. Charging gives off hydrogen and oxygen, which explode if ignited.
i din't charge it for 12 hours, but for 2 instead because the place where we bought it from said it only needs a 2 hour charge after adding the acid.</end quote></div>
You can't fully charge a battery in 2 hours unless we are talking "AA" batteries. Charge the battery for a full 12 hours.
Lights do not need much power. Someone here already gave you a great test. Grab some jumper cables and try to jump it from a "running" car. If it works it is your battery.
here are some tips for you.
When charging conventional batteries, loosen vent caps and ventilate charging area. A buildup of hydrogen and oxygen in the battery or in the charging area can create an explosion hazard.
If the battery feels hot to the touch during charging, STOP. Allow the battery to cool before charging again. Heat damages the plates, and a battery that is too hot can explode.
NEVER put the red sealing cap back on the battery once you take it off. If you do, gases will become trapped and could explode.
Make sure the vent tube isn't kinked or blocked. Otherwise, gases could build up and explode.
Properly connect the charger to the battery: positive charger lead to positive battery post and negative charger lead to negative battery post. Unplug the charger or turn it off before you disconnect the leads, which will cut down on the chance of sparks.
ABSOLUTELY NO SMOKING, SPARKS OR FLAMES AROUND CHARGING BATTERIES. Charging gives off hydrogen and oxygen, which explode if ignited.
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