I lifted my front wheels off the ground and engaged for wheel drive while the ignition was on and i spun one wheel and the other one didn't spin
Also my neutral switch hasent been working for 2 days now, i will hopefully send another video soon

 

What about the front prop shaft? Did it revolve? If not, does it wobble about as you turn the wheel, indicating the splines on the diff nose are jumping inside the prop shaft. If all is still, you may have a problem inside the diff, either the 4WD mechanism not going in properly, or a half shaft spline not meshing, are the inner CVs tight up to the diff? Or the whole diff collapsed and the crownwheel and pinion not meshing. Though jamming and jumping, together with noise, are usual if the diff itself has gone. Does the 4WD light come on? This would indicate the 4WD mechanism is working, as a lever inside, touches a switch to turn the light on when the lever has shoved the gears into mesh.

 

the four wheel drive light does not turn on and the front prop shaft doesn't move when I spin the tires but I'm pretty sure it moves when I'm riding

 

Right, check the spines on the drive shafts. Check the inner CVs are tight up to the diff. If they are, remove the filler plug. If you can see the crownwheel through it, lift the front end again in 4WD and check the crown wheel goes round as you turn a wheel by hand, first moving one wheel then the other. If the crown wheel does not move when you turn one wheel, the splines on that side may have failed so remove and check them on the shaft and in the diff. If they are OK, there must be a problem in the diff. Worth removing the plastic cover on the side of the diff, and watching the electric 4wd mechanism move the lever into engagement. If that seems to be working OK the diff is going to have to come out. Check the splines on prop shaft etc, when you do so, and if they, and the ones on the diff that they mate with, are OK strip the diff to find the fault. This website Yamaha Servo Replacement Motors ? 501 Parts.com Yamaha 4wd System Parts and Repair has lots about front diff problems, including a sparse but genuine, workshop manual for a Bruin.

 

ok thank you, my brother was riding my bruin then he shut it off for ten minutes and when he went to start it all it does is make a bunch of repeated clicking noises from the solenoid when I press the start button. I charged up the battery and tried to bridge the solenoid and all it did was drain the battery.

 

When the solenoid buzzes, either the battery is flat, or a connection bad, this includes earths, or the starter or engine seized. With a charged battery and the solenoid by-passed, all you are left with is a seizure, unless one of the thick wires has a bad connection, or the battery has gone bad very suddenly.

 

I bought a new starter and I know that the engine is not sized because I pull started it , I charged up the battery and bridged the solenoid and it did spin the starter over but not fast enough.

 

OK, that narrows things a bit, it is a bad battery, bad connections on thick wires, or a faulty new starter. I did get a batch of new starters for Suzuki 750s where a brush was not earthed properly inside. However, my guess would be your battery on it's way out.

 

i ended up replacing my starter and solenoid but it was the same. I charged up the battery but it drains pretty fast when i press start so i put a weak jumper pack and it was slowly turning over, so its most likely the battery or a bad connection.

 

thank you to @ Merryman for all the help i ended up selling my bruin yesterday!