So I'm working on a 2008 Grizzly 350 4x4 for a friend...Originally I was just going to clean up the carb and get rid of fouled fuel, but after getting her running the ATV died...But when I put it back in neutral there is no neutral light, same goes for reverse. Furthermore, even with the key turned off, when I go to install a new 30 amp fuse in the solenoid, it blows immediately...I must have gone through 2 or 3 fuses. I've read that the issue is either that the ground is contacting metal somewhere between the negative battery terminal and the ground point...Or, I've also read that it could be the CDI box or the volt regulator....Has anyone else run into this issue? And is there a definitive fix? I don't mind going through and plugging and unplugging some parts to track down the issue, but I really don't want to have to remove all the plastics and track the ground from A to B...Any and all info and advice will be greatly appreciated!
JDBird is offline Report Post

 

Wouldn't matter if the neg wire was naked and touched the frame all over, it is already connected to frame and engine. If it blows the fuse with ignition switched off, most likely the voltage regulator has shorted internally. Be sure the battery is connected the right way, negative to earth, positive to solenoid, (though you couldn't have started it on the button if it wasn't). Disconnect the voltage reg at it's plug and see if a new fuse blows. If it doesn't, you have a faulty voltage reg. If it does, the positive wire between fuse and ignition switch is shorting to the frame, or the ignition switch has shorted internally.

 

So the fuse is still blowing with the volt regulator disconnected...and when I say it's blowing, it's really blowing with a visible spark when fuse is inserted. Upon inspecting the middle of the fuse, it's not just a small little crack within the fuse, the tiny lil internal arch inside the fuse is totally obliterated...When you say "or the ignition switch has shorted internally" are you referring to the actual piece on the dash where the key is inserted and turned on or off? Or is there a different ignition switch I need to inspect? At this point I'm planning to get up early and start removing plastics so I can trace the positive battery cable from battery...You also mentioned that the "positive wire between the fuse and ignition switch may be shorting to frame"...What color is this wire? When looking at the wiring, the + runs from battery terminal to solenoid, but which wire runs from the solenoid to the ignition switch?

 

I only have the Bruin wiring diagram so it could be different, but a red wire goes from solenoid to ignition key switch, the fault won't be the ignition switch though as it only has two wires to it (most bikes have four wires including an earth, which can short out). So if the loom is similar to the Bruin, your fault is in that bit of red wire going from fuse to voltage regulator and ignition switch. Even though it is hidden in the loom, it probably sticks out somewhere and has fretted against the frame.

 

So the red wire you're referring to goes to the voltage regulator as well? Do you know if it goes directly from solenoid to the volt reg, and then to the ignition key? Or does it split from the solenoid and go to both VR and ignition key?

 

It has got to split somewhere, and doesn't matter where, trace any thin red wire from solenoid plug to regulator and ignition switch, less than 6ft of wire to check. If you can't find the fault because it is hidden in the loom, I have, in the past, cut the wire and run a new one from fuse to ignition switch and regulator, but you have to be careful to make good waterproof joints, as any ingress of moisture and the wires turn to verdigris surprisingly quickly. Also, if it is two wires inside the loom shorted, the wire it shorted against may also give problems, now or later.

 

So there was no cut in any wire...I double and triple checked...I had the atv seat, air box, and rear plastics removed to make it easier to trace the red wire, and nothing..Nada...So I started by install of battey and hooked up a new solenoid, after that I hooked up a new VR, then proceeded to plug in the rest of the components under the seat (CDI & relays)...By the time everything was hooked up, I flipped the key, no spark/blown solenoid fuse, and the Neutral light, R light, & headlights are working just fine.