This is my first 4-wheeler, so i'm not sure what the problem is. It runs fine but if you punch it (floor it) at idle it just dies unless you let off. I took the air box out and sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb while it was running. That didn't help. But I did notice that when it does do this that the gas appears to actually be spitting back out of the carb. I think that would explain why my air filter smells of gas?? My other problem is I don't have the owners manual, so I don't know if there is any adjustments. I see on the left side of the carb towards the bottom there appears to be an adjustment. Its a screw with a spring between it and the carb. What does this adjust?? Should I get the factory service manual or is a clymer's just as good??
Thanks Guys
Chris

 

I would suggest getting the clymer book, the are alot thicker and is more precise than the original book. I am not exactly einstien when it comes to carbs. but i would suggest checking your float. If you do not know what i am talking about or do not know how to mess with the carb get the book. As a matter of fact i would get the clymer anyway, it comes in handy. This just doesnt happen to warriors, it can happen to the best of them, just get the book then go through theh carb

 

Thanks.....i just ordered the clymer's book from dennis kirk so I guess I'll have to wait 4-6 busniess days.
Later Guys
Chris

 

did you heat the engine up?

on my warrior it stalls if its cold.
Thunderpower

 

yeah its gotta be warmed up because i rode it for an hour and it still would do it.

 

once you get the manual, take the carb off. be careful removing the two 11mm nuts(i think that's the size) on the front side of the carb, because you might damage the rubber intake. don't remove the throttle cable, just raise it up and out of the frame. take off the float bowl-4 phillips head scres on the bottom, make sure to drain it first, there is a phillips head bolt on the side of the bowl for this. once you get the bowl off, take your carb cleaner and spray the heck out of everything. be careful spraying into all the little holes, it might end up squirting back out a diff. hole, and will shoot you in the eye. i would wear some eye protection, it burns like h@##. at this stage, i wouldn't mess with anyting, or "tinker" with any of the adjustments. once this is done, put it back together. start it up, and see if it's any better.

this happens to my quad at least once a summer, each time, i take the bowl off and find a few small pieces of dirt that mess the whole thing up. the carb cleaner should do the trick.

 

The two nuts you are refering to are 12mm. I would suggest the above options as well as my experince. The screw with the spring in your idle. There should be a small air mix screw that has a standard head on it on the bottom of your carb. Unscrew 1/4 turn or less untill your warrior does not stall. I have mine turned 1 5/8 turns out i belive. Also you may want to buy a carb rebuild kit to get a stronger spring for you accelerator pump.

 

The bog off idle is an attribute of the pumper carb. It goes way rich for an instant, enough to cause a bog. The pumper concept works okay at higher RPM's (higher airflow) but not too great at idle due to reduced atomization of the fuel charge. Not much can be done other than to slip the clutch (increase RPM's to increase airflow) as your taking off, which of course isn't good either, for the clutch anyway. The best (and of course most expensive) is too trash the carb and replace it with a round slide with a UFO in it or a flat slide. The Mikuni round slide is $185 from White Bros + $30 for the UFO (check out the UFO at www.thunderproducts.com) ans Mickey Dunlap has a 37mm Mikuni flat slide available for $250.

By comparison, the constant velocity carbs on the Raptor have no bog off idle. You can crank it ans within 12 feet stand it on up it's grab bar. The downside to the CV carbs is a slight bog when jumping due to the slides falling.

The Clymer book is awesome, the Yamaha factory Warrior manual is an awesome PAPERWEIGHT. The factory manual is $41 and has nearly none of the illustrations that the Clymer book has.

 

From my experience, the "pumper" carbs tend to gum up the pump piston (usually under a roundish plastic cover on the side of the carb held down by 3 screws), especially if the valves are not adjusted periodically (most likely the cause of your excessive gas spit back). Cleaning the pump is fairly simple, and the whole carb does not have to come apart to do this, just don't get the carb cleaner on the rubber diaphram as it will distort the rubber, causing the pump to not operate right.
If you are having a lot of gas spit back through the carb (some is normal, a lot is not), the intake valve is not seating properly, which if caught in time can be corrected with a valve adjustment. For some reason, all 4 cycle ATV engines are hard on the intake valve(s) faces, decreasing clearance over time until the valve(s) does not completely seat, causing compression blowback through the carb. If you ever have a top end job done on the quad, make sure that a new intake valve(s) is installed