CTRaptor is at it again. Don't take advice from this idiot. He comes on irc and if you even mention another pipe besides CT..he starts talking trash about how nothing compares to CT etc etc. He must've read dirtwheels and got a hardon from their "rigged" shootout. You can say all you want about the CT..the fact is..it's ugly and doesn't sound all that great.
I would listen to 14mins advice over this CT guy any day. Anytime something technical seems to come up..CT fumbles around and tries to make someone else look stupid..when he doesn't have a clue as to what he's talking about. Basically he beats around the bush, name calls..and just starts trouble. I can't stand idiots.

 

CTRaptor- did you post under the name corndog a few months back?

 

spacollie in your first post you said that when the Rs picked up it would pull... My question is about what is the throttle position, 1/4 1/2 3/4 or full, when they start to pick up or pull real hard?

 

It would really start to pull hard from half throttle. I also noticed that right before the power really kicked in it was as though the engine would hiccup[for a very slight second] as if from a rich mixture. But as I said I rode hard for an hour and checked the plug and it was pretty good.

 

A dealer in my area told me that if I removed the snorkel I could cut out the elbow for the crankcase vent and plumb it in to the side of my air box. Does this work or would a filter be a better way to go. I think that the airbox way would work good cause of vacuum created by the intake would allow for better breathing. What do you guys think?

 

Spacollie,
Personally if I was in your shoes, I would go back to your first post. It seems you liked the way it ran before you cut the airbox lid and rejetted. 145L/150R main jets no air box lid mods, why not go back to that (duck tape the holes in the lid for experimental purposes) and see what happens? If that fixes it, reorder a new airbox lid, leave the main jets and ride the hell out of that thing.
That's what I would try, it's just too easy to throw money at a problem.
Hope this helps.

 

Assuming that they are not DJ mains I would go to a stock needle. It won't hurt to do the pilots but in my opinon I don't think that they are the problem. I had alot of trouble with mine trying to use a DJ needle with mikuni jets, they just don't match. This might not be the problem but needles are cheap so it couldn't hurt to try. Get yourself a flexable screwdriver to adjust the mixture screws while its running. You want them set to where your bike idles the smoothest.

On the filter for the cranckcase breather I would just use a filter, I wouldn't go to all the trouble of trying to put it in the box. You can pick up a filter at some auto supply store for a couple bucks. Just bring the hose with you to check for size.

Like said earlier make sure you write down every change you make as you go so you can look back at it to help you later. Also it helps to only do one thing at a time, so what works won't cancle out what doesn't.

 

Well somethings are just too hard to sit back and watch. I have owned a CT pipe and now I own a Yoshi. Why ?? Because the damn CT was too damn hard to get spot on, I called Allen myself and he seemed put out by the fact I couldnt get the jetting right and had questions regarding the reasons why. Dont tell me ctraptor it was driver error as I had it dynoed by a local race shop and still never seemed happy with it. For you to come on here with less than 20 posts and talk sh*t to people whom you have never met is ridiculous. Sit back and STFU and watch and learn so if and when you ever do do anything of value to add to this forum someone might actually benifit from you. Until then bring your sorry *** down to phoenix or meet me in flagstaff as soon as the forest's reopen and lets race for some good ole hard earned cash. Thought so, now get off the computer before mom and dad catch you d/ling porno AGAIN.


Michael

 

I just couldn't help, but to stick my nose in here.

CTraptor, with all the trash talking, I take it you will be at 4-stroke wars for MLK weekend to back up your mouth, right? You live in AZ, so the trip reasonable!
Your poor choice of words and bad mouthing of Trinity will not get you anywhere. Everyone has a right to thier own opinion, including you, but don't bash because you believe in something sooo much you feel you have to. Settle your differences on the track, dragging or if that doesn't work and the mouthing won't stop, step outside and settle your differences like a man, kick his A$$. Enjoy your CT products and let evryone else enjoy thier choice, even if it isn't what "you think" is the best.

Ward660r, I actually had better tuning when using the DJ needles and Mikuni mains on my 686 using the Graydon airbox and outwears lid. It just seemed I could dial it in alot better.

For some of the others, I never had my Rap run any better using larger pilots. I tried 25's and 27.5's with no better power then the stockers. I found that (like most of you) fine tuning the air/fuel mixture is a must and has to be done with extreme temperature changes. I will also agree that I lost bottom end when using the Graydon box (no lid) vs. stock box (un-modified), but I also gained a good amount in mid and top with the graydon box (no lid).

Finally spacollie, "I think" that yes, you are going to loose some bottom when running with holes in the lid or no lid, but you will gain alot in mid and top. It's a trade off that you and only you can decide if it's worth it. Personally, I enjoy the better pull in the mid and top, but I know some that really like a better bottom end. Jetting is not easy and will take a good amount of time to really dial it in perfect. When the temp changes 10-20 degrees celcius, if you want to be spot on, your gonna have to rejet and play with the air/fuel mixture settings. If all you care about is being "safe", then a simple full throttle plug chop is needed. I do recommend when checking after the plug chop that you cut the plug with a hacksaw allowing you to see if the jetting is safe. You have to cut the threads off and look alot deeper then just pulling the plug and veiwing it. Also, you need to use a "brand new" plug when checking the plug, not the old one that has already been discolored. Therefore, it is going to cost a few bucks worth of plugs before you get it right.

I would also recommend that anyone, stock or aftermarket, modified or unmodified, use a filter for the crank case breather tube. This is the absolute best way to ensure that you are not getting any contaminents through the tube!

Good luck,
Swy

 

14mins Nope.
And as for RaptorRcR and MichaelAZ you can both STFU. I'm not going to argue because you guys will just argue back, and quite frankly your both not worth my time.

And swytak, Yeah I guess I did get a little over my head when 14mins said "dump the CT pipe" but still I like my hi preformence parts. And that MLK thing, i'm taking it that your saying the glamis thing? I might but there's no way I'm gonna race someone with higher than a stock piston (compression and bore). I know I would loose then.


But spacollie, just give my advice a try, 155/160 without snorkel and get the crankcase breather filter. And if you don't want it, it's cool.

So are you gonna tell me where you got those pilot jets???? that's all I need for mine to work prime.