Replacing perch and clutch lever on Warrior?
#1
OK...Another dumb question from a girl with the mechanical aptitude of a deer! But I won't ever learn til I ask....
Want to take off the stock clutch lever/safety switch/E-brake system on my Warrior. I HATE that thing! Will just any old perch and clutch lever work? Was looking at the Works Connection Pro-Perch but want to make sure it will fit, etc. Got my block off plate all lined up (RMW) but not sure about the perch and lever. Any CR style? Or does it need to be one in particular?
thanks for the help!
Want to take off the stock clutch lever/safety switch/E-brake system on my Warrior. I HATE that thing! Will just any old perch and clutch lever work? Was looking at the Works Connection Pro-Perch but want to make sure it will fit, etc. Got my block off plate all lined up (RMW) but not sure about the perch and lever. Any CR style? Or does it need to be one in particular?
thanks for the help!
#2
pretty much any perch will do. i am using the Yamaha GYT-R (yz-400) perch. matches stock, has quick adjust **** and pulls a little easier than stock. the damn stock perch has a hard pull.
removal instructions:
1) follow the two wire harness coming from your clutch perch...somewhere underneath your headlights you'll find connections. one harness, just needs to be unplugged...the other has two wires. unplug them from the perch side harness and then plug the remaining loose wires into them selves. it always good to squirt some di-electric grease in there to prevent corrosion.
2)follow the brake cable and remove...
the gytr perch has a nice rubber boot that covers the perch nicley...this will keep dust and dirt out which can slow down the action of the clutch. depending how old the quad is...you might want to squirt some cable lube in your clutch cable while you have everything apart...when washing your quad keep the hose/pressure washer away from the perch. you can force water into your cable which will begin to rust...causing the cluth to stick.
A hydraulic clutch is my next move...they pull about 30% easier...but cost a couple of hundred dollars. until then, i'll have forearms like popeye.
Note: remember or mark the angle your original perch was at. it'll make adjusting your next on easier.
your asking all the right questions regarding a warrior and modding the apropriate parts in the popular order...i would recommend, once you get that crap off...you'll be able to fit some handquards on now.
a few more mods and we expect you to post some pics of that machine...good luck.
removal instructions:
1) follow the two wire harness coming from your clutch perch...somewhere underneath your headlights you'll find connections. one harness, just needs to be unplugged...the other has two wires. unplug them from the perch side harness and then plug the remaining loose wires into them selves. it always good to squirt some di-electric grease in there to prevent corrosion.
2)follow the brake cable and remove...
the gytr perch has a nice rubber boot that covers the perch nicley...this will keep dust and dirt out which can slow down the action of the clutch. depending how old the quad is...you might want to squirt some cable lube in your clutch cable while you have everything apart...when washing your quad keep the hose/pressure washer away from the perch. you can force water into your cable which will begin to rust...causing the cluth to stick.
A hydraulic clutch is my next move...they pull about 30% easier...but cost a couple of hundred dollars. until then, i'll have forearms like popeye.
Note: remember or mark the angle your original perch was at. it'll make adjusting your next on easier.
your asking all the right questions regarding a warrior and modding the apropriate parts in the popular order...i would recommend, once you get that crap off...you'll be able to fit some handquards on now.
a few more mods and we expect you to post some pics of that machine...good luck.
#3
Dunescreaminmamma, I just removed the factory unit from my warrior. I bought the GYT-R unit from Alba. It works fine. One thing to note is that you are also removing 2 saftey switches from the bike. The rev-limiter for the parking brake and the clutch saftey switch. This means you will be able to start the bike at any time. Clutch pulled or not. When you disconnect the switch running from the clutch take the two ends and plug them together and seal them up somehow. If you don't the bike will die when you attempt to put it into reverse.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
#4
Thanks guys! I'm sure glad this site has a print mode. I printed out Raptor660RNH's step by step instructions before they get purged. That will come in very handy. Thanks for the tips WarriorManiac! mascman mentioned that also on another post. He said just siicone and tape the end for the E-brake, that the clutch switch will have male and female ends when I disconnect the safety switch and they would need to be plugged back together. Just as you said, he said if I didn't do that it would stall in reverse.
You guys are quite the education!
Thanks for the help!!
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