Measured 80volts. The CDI is an AC type. Maybe it is bad.

 

I agree.

Lynn

 

Lynn,

On the wiring harness, the plug with 2 pins(Kill switch and AC ignition) are loose. Is there a way to make them tighter in the plug? They move in and out about half a centimeter, this breaks the connection to the CDI and prevents both spark and kill switch from working all the time. It creates and intermittent loss of connection.

 

I've never looked that closely since mine are tight and don't move in the connector housing. Usually with connector housings that have inserted pins there is a tab on the pin itself that it bent outward. The tab compresses in while the pin is initially inserted past a ramp in the housing, snaps out into a detent, and then can't get back out because the reverse path runs the pin tab up against an abrupt shoulder in the housing and makes the pin hard to extract.

I've never been able to find a replacement connector source for any chinese quad connectors. If worse comes to worse you could always solder two pigtail wires directly onto the CDI pins, cut off the bad two wire connector and wire in a new connector set from radio shack. These pins can have hundreds of volts on them so don't use a teeny connector with pins real close together. And keep the connector tucked up where they will never be soaked with water.

 

So today, I checked the wires on the clip using a tiny flat head screw driver for eyeglasses. I was able to release the pins. They are on tight now but if I wiggle the wires(red/black for AC power and Kill switch) the bike either bogs down or dies out. If I move them where they like to be the bike runs like a raped ape!

Is there a way to check the wires with an ohms test to see if they need to be replaced?

 

When these pins mate with the CDI pins there is supposed to be a squeeze fit. The connection has to have a firm bite so that the connection can't rattle around with vibration and be intermittent. You look at this visually if you extract the pin and then try plugging it on the CDI without the housing. It should be firmly connected - not loose.

Possibility #2 is that the crimp connection (where the pin is curled with a crimper down onto the wire strands) is bad. If you suspect this may be a problem then solder the crimp area to be sure. (Want to peek in on an endless flame war? Google "crimp versus solder" for about 7.5 million opinions...).

Possibility #3 is that the copper wire strands are broken internally right behind the crimp connection at the pin. The insulation is usually intact but the wires inside have fatigued from vibration and separated - making intermittent connection. When this happens you will usually notice that the ignition fails when you tug on the wires stretching them like you're pulling the wires out of the CDI connector, and it works best when you push or compress the wires into the connector. Another thing you can do is use and ohmmeter to test for continuity from the internal wire to the pin while tugging/compressing the wire/pin combination: Use a sewing pin to poke through the wire insulation and make connection to the internal copper close to the suspected break. Then one end of your meter connects to the sewing pin while the other end connects to the connector pin.

 

I removed 3" of wire on the AC Power lead. I replaced that 3" link with a new piece of wire and spade connectors. I removed the Pin connector and crimped it to the replacement wire and reinserted it in the housing clip block(2-wire). It worked and it worked on the Casoli CDI upgrade. Motor revved so high it was insane. Now to get it off the jack stand and put the new tires on and see how fast it goes!

The black kill wire was still acting up, but I squeezed the CDI pin wire and the harness pin wire connection and it worked. I may try some solder or I might change the connector on the CDI because CDI has a mini wire harness. We'll see how it holds up after running around the yard some on a test drive.