1) Engine problems.. If your quad wont run..post in here.

Twister/Hammerhead won't stay running

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  #21  
Old 03-11-2011, 11:42 PM
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The enrichener (electric choke, bystarter valve) is open/enabled only when the enrichener is cold. When the engine is started electrical power is applied to the enrichener, which heats it up, expands a wax pellet, and closes it off. The enrichener stays heated up as the engine runs and stays closed off. It doesn't open back up until power is removed and it cools all the way back off. The power to the enrichener does not switch on and off while the quad (or buggy) is running.

The enrichener heater runs on 12 volts AC or DC - it doesn't matter which because it is just a heater. My GY6 quads run on a DC 12 volt aux tap on the regulator (mine is five pin). Some quads run on raw AC power from the stator rather than DC. But this voltage can be very high at high engine RPM so a resistor is added in series to keep from burning up the enrichener heater. This is actually a good system since the enrichener stays on longer at idle (lower voltage from the stator) and turns off faster is you start the quad (or buggy in your case) and take off. Engine warmup is faster on the go, and so is the enrichener heater.

Have you measured your resistor with a meter? Is it open? The hammerhead twister wiring diagram shows 10 ohms. Other posts I've seen say 50 ohms. I've never measured one so I don't know. Like I said my quads don't have a resistor. But your resistor shouldn't be open.

In any case the enrichener should be tested at 12 volts without the resistor. The resistor is measured with a meter separately. By your description though the enrichener valve sounds like it is working. It closes and opens with 12 volts applied. Also note that an open resistor or a failed heater will result in a enrichener that is stuck open (in enrichment mode) - making the quad easy to start but it runs like crap later because the extra fuel won't shut off. That is not always the case. An enrichiner can stick closed, but it is much less common. It is also possible that you've freed things up having disassembled the enrichener, and now it works fine.
 
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:03 AM
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First...thanks for all the input from Beergut and Lynn Edwards(Great Teachers). II have had to work on this Hammerhead part time due to other projects and work. It appears as though I was premature in purchasing a new enricher and resistor, but I have them if I need them. The only thing that I can figure is that the enrichment needle was stuck closed or that I did not get it cleaned properly the first 2 times. It is working just fine, now, with the original resistor and enricher on it. I am going to check the resistors to see if they both are registering 10 ohms. Also, I was leaving the key on while I was checking for reasons why the engine wouldn't start right up...That seems to keep the heater on, causing the enricher to prematurely stop the fuel from getting to the carb. So, that being the case, don't leave your key on when it is cold outside. Again...thanks for the enlightenment!!!
 
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by folmes
.....Also, I was leaving the key on while I was checking for reasons why the engine wouldn't start right up...That seems to keep the heater on, causing the enricher to prematurely stop the fuel from getting to the carb. So, that being the case, don't leave your key on when it is cold outside. Again...thanks for the enlightenment!!!
According to the 2005 hammerhead twister wiring diagram this should not be the case. The enrichener is powered from the raw AC voltage from the stator through that resistor. And there is only voltage there when the engine is turning. It doesn't matter if the ignition switch is on or not as long as the engine is stopped. If the engine is stopped the enrichener is not being heated.

You can verify this: Turn on the ignition switch and leave the engine stopped. Measure then DC voltage across the enrichener connector. It should be zero volts. Then measure the AC voltage across the connector. It should be zero volts too.

Start up the quad. Measure each of those voltages again (DC and AC) One or both of those voltages will be reading something other than zero volts.
 
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:59 AM
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It is very possible that I spoke too soon...wouldn't want to put out any false information. You are probably right. You seem to be the person with exceptional electronic knowledge, and you do have the manual/schematic. I am going to check that out, because I like to see it for myself(No offense). Plus, I may learn something else. This has been a great learning experience for me thus far(Hope I don't have to lern much more). So I am to assume that the charging system is what energizes the heater instead of the battery./ Sounds good! Will check it later. Thanks again!
 
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by folmes
... You seem to be the person with exceptional electronic knowledge, and you do have the manual/schematic....
You can have the manual/schematic too if you like. Go here:

BuggyNews Buggy Forum • View forum - Service Manuals - Mini Buggy

Go to page two, and look for a post dated Jan 1, 2009 from "Pud". Download the pdf attachment and you now have everything I do on hammerhead buggies.

BTW, the buggynews forum is a great source of info for buggies. I would definately use them as an additional source of info. There are a lot of hammerhead owners there who are willing to help out. More info is better...

Originally Posted by folmes
.... I am going to check that out, because I like to see it for myself(No offense). Plus, I may learn something else.....
Definately do that. Since my only source of info is the wiring digram I'm totally relying on that. Wiring diagrams are notorious for being down rev, out of date, or just plain wrong.

Originally Posted by folmes
... So I am to assume that the charging system is what energizes the heater instead of the battery./
That is what the wiring diagram shows. And the charging system will only produce power when the engine is turning.
 
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