Hey Ed,

Well, I'm still skeptical. I can think of many scenarios where you have an intermittent problem, do something, and it starts working. The natural tendency is to link the action to the results, but sometimes that isn't so. Other confounding variables are to blame instead. It is so easy to get fooled.

Ed, can I ask you an honest question? If you had done this test (heating the CDI) and it had not worked (still no spark), would you have posted your negative results? Or would you have blown it off as a crazy idea, and simply moved on without posting? I agree with your "Thank God for the internet" statement, but all media (and especially the internet) tends to highlight the bizarre, and mask the mundane (and much more plausible) results.

I still can't think of any reason whatsoever as to why heating a CDI will do anything at all on a permanent basis. Yeah thermal expansion could warp things enough to make a bad connection good, but not permanently. The bad connection hasn't been fixed, and will come back. You would have an intermittent CDI. Those are common.

Don't think that you are doing something like reflowing solder inside the CDI or something bizarre like that. Solder melts at around 370 degrees F, and that is way above the point where epoxy breaks down and becomes conductive (as in charcoal), and way way way above the melting point of the plastic case and connector bodies.

But I am curious about you did exactly. How did you heat this CDI? How hot did you take it? How did you measure this? How long did you heat it?

--Lynn

 

I have 4/5pin cdis and no spark from any of them i am going to try this method of heat to. Them how long should i apply the heat gun at this point iam desprite i have bought new magneto ,coil, spark plug, silinoid, start switch and voltage rectifire please come to my rescue

QUOTE=LynnEdwards;3137062]Why not? Info is good... .[/QUOTE]

 

Sounds like you are throwing parts at a machine to see what sticks. Did the CDI units go out and replacing them fixed the machine? What I mean is did the thing quit you bought a second CDI it ran great til it didn't then you bought a third...fourth...and fifth? Or did the machine quit working and you throw a new mag, coil plug. solenoid, start switch, rectifier, and a bunch of CDI units at it and it still wont fire?

If you post a new thread with the original problem there are people here who can help you out. Jester is quite knowledgeable if you can find Lynn Edwards on here he could probably rewire one of these in his sleep but I haven't seen him in a while. I'd usually help but all my stuff is on my computer at home and I do not have internet service right now (borrowed my moms puter cause I had a question bout my trike).

Another way to find help is go to the Chinese or Chinese ask expert forums and start reading the "my machine wont start and I don't have spark problem" is pretty common and so is the 5 pin cdi. There are many threads walking people through how to diagnose a problem on them. If I remember right there is a how to diagnose a stator sticky at the top of the Chinese forum that may be a good starting point.

 

I had spark but my carburator wasnt acting right so i bought a new one and at the same time the engine and frame were grounding or arching so i installed new carb and put some card board where the frame and engine were sparking . Then no spark at all since then ive had no spark at all .i even had it running for about 3 minutes before i got the new carb i have proven that the mag ,coil ,spark plug ,and kill switch are good my dilema is ithink is the cdi please help before i just give up and take it to the shop

 

Kazuma falcon 110
No spark, haven't tried heating CDI.
New ignition, new coil, new starter/kill, horn switch, new battery, new starter, new magneto/stator. (Not in that order)
Ran before changes but died after about 3 minutes and hasn't had spark since. All changes from cheapest to most expensive and all to get spark. No luck! Any help? I'll try heating CDI in a minute as I've seen and heard this works from many sources. New CDI should arrive in mail any day now.

 

Also, motor turns over fine, does this absolutely clear the solenoid of suspicion? Could it still be the solenoid? I've had test lights, multimeters, wire tracers, jumper cables, screwdrivers and everything else on this thing, bypassing safety switches, jumping the solenoid, testing harnesses and getting ohm readings. I'm stubborn and a rookie on these Chinese atv's.

 

"put some card board where the frame and engine were sparking . Then no spark at all" Your frame and engine are supposed to be earthed together, if you were getting sparks from one to the other, the earth lead between frame and engine must be bad. If you were getting sparks from a live wire to the frame or engine, that wire must be bare, and possibly now broken, check it.

 

Kazuma falcon 110
When I go in reverse, the front tires tweek inward and it's even tweeking the lower A arms until I go forward again, then they seem to tweek back just fine. All forward movement is fine and it can even be pushed backwards with no rider without significant tweeking.
What do I do to remedy this issue?

 

Interesting thread, I have been an Evinrude engineer since 1994 and maybe I can shed some light on the "heating the CDI to fix it" situation, I am sure that when i tell you this you will be able to understand why it sometimes can be fixed by heating it.


The CDI units are almost always sealed by some putting after it has been manufactured, over time sometimes the putty can develop hairline cracks invisible to the human eye but moisture can get in and will be trapped, sometimes the moisture will short-circuit the CDI and sometimes it will bleed of the charge of the caps, either way you will have a no-spark situation.


By heating the CDI to over 100 degrees celcius, the moisture will evacuate and leave the CDI functional until moisture once more enters. I have experienced this a lot over the years, freshwater outboards have a higher fix rate than saltwater engines. Hope this was to any help

 

Interesting thread, I have been an Evinrude engineer since 1994 and maybe I can shed some light on the "heating the CDI to fix it" situation, I am sure that when i tell you this you will be able to understand why it sometimes can be fixed by heating it.


The CDI units are almost always sealed by some putting after it has been manufactured, over time sometimes the putty can develop hairline cracks invisible to the human eye but moisture can get in and will be trapped, sometimes the moisture will short-circuit the CDI and sometimes it will bleed of the charge of the caps, either way you will have a no-spark situation.


By heating the CDI to over 100 degrees celcius, the moisture will evacuate and leave the CDI functional until moisture once more enters. I have experienced this a lot over the years, freshwater outboards have a higher fix rate than saltwater engines. Hope this was to any help