Hello all!

I am John and I am living here in So Cal about 3 hours from Glamis. I have been having lots of fun riding my KFX700 in the dunes, but always wanted a DS. This weekend I found probably the cleanest 2000 that there is. He said he rode it maybe twice a year, and I can believe it, stock except for K&N, and jet coated Big Gun header and pipe.

Got a smokin' deal on the bike, so I wasn't too worried that it didn't run right, the carb was gunked up with varnish and the battery is dead as the proverbial door nail, but I did get it to fire enough at his house to see that there was no smoke or loud knocking noises.

Last night I pulled of the carb and cleaned it out the best I can, and it will fire up and run, but not great. The plugs show that he was running *extremely* lean, and so I know I need to play with the jetting. It bucks and snorts and doesn't like to accelorate up from and idle at all. I know nothing about these carbs, so it will all be a learning experience.

I have to buy a manual I know that, but can anyone tell me what some of the settings are so I can get it close, like how many turns in on the jet there at the front of the carb(don't know the name) but it is the externally adjustable one. It was screwed in tight.

I noticed when I pulled it out, there was the needle jet, the spring and the washer, but is there supposed to be a ball in there too? According to a parts page I printed out last night there is a ball on top of the needle.

If anyone has any info or knowledge about these units, or would like to email me a chapter on the carbs out of their manual, that would be great!

Thanks!
John

 

Assuming that you have the stock Mikuni carb, these settings should be a good starting point:

1) A 170 or 175 mikuni main jet, stock is 165 (I would take the one you have in there now out and take it to the shop with you to make sure you get the correct style).

2) On the needle, put the C-clip in either the third or fourth position counting from the flat end end (i.e. the top).

3) On the stock carb, the two things you can adjust on the outside are the idle screw (its a big Phillips head screw) and the air/fuel screw (this is a tiny screw on the bottom of the carb towards the front which sits inside a metal tube). This screw needs to be turned out 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 turns from fully closed.

Now, if you did not have trouble getting the carb screws out, that leads me to believe the carb has been messed with before. Usually, the first time you take the carb apart, the screws get stripped out and you have to take them off with needle nose vise grips, and replace them with allen headed screws. The previous owner may have put a "Dynojet" kit in it, which would mean you have a different needle and different jets than the stock Mikuni parts. If that is the case, the settings might be a little different than what I described here. Do a search in this forum for "jetting", and you can probably find several hours of reading, most of which will probably describe things better than I have. Good luck!

 

Thanks for your help. I had *loads* of fun getting the screws out, but they had been removed before, I could tell. The way I do it is with a hacksaw and cut a notch to use a straight blade screw driver. (great care was taken to plug the carb throat from metal debris)

The bike has the pipe and K&N, and looking at the spark plugs leads me to believe they did not re-jet after installing those, the porcelain is a pretty bright white color.

When I removed the carb and disassembled, I did count the turns removing the air/fuel mixture screw, but who knows what it was set at before. I will reset it tonight when I get home. The float bowl was a nice earthy brown tone throughout but some time with my finger and some carb cleaner it is nice aluminum again.

One more thing. The choke ****, is it in the 'choke on' position when the **** is pushed in or when it is pulled out? Sounds goofy I know, but the bike will only run with the **** pulled out, and the previous owner said that was choke on. But if a fuel path is still blocked with varnish, it would need the extra richness of the choke on position..

John

 

Choke on = pulled out. Choke off = pushed in. When you pull the choke out, there are two clicks, first click out is a half choke, then all the way out is the full choke.



<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: WLD_OTZ

Thanks for your help. I had *loads* of fun getting the screws out, but they had been removed before, I could tell. The way I do it is with a hacksaw and cut a notch to use a straight blade screw driver. (great care was taken to plug the carb throat from metal debris)



The bike has the pipe and K&N, and looking at the spark plugs leads me to believe they did not re-jet after installing those, the porcelain is a pretty bright white color.



When I removed the carb and disassembled, I did count the turns removing the air/fuel mixture screw, but who knows what it was set at before. I will reset it tonight when I get home. The float bowl was a nice earthy brown tone throughout but some time with my finger and some carb cleaner it is nice aluminum again.



One more thing. The choke ****, is it in the 'choke on' position when the **** is pushed in or when it is pulled out? Sounds goofy I know, but the bike will only run with the **** pulled out, and the previous owner said that was choke on. But if a fuel path is still blocked with varnish, it would need the extra richness of the choke on position..



John</end quote></div>

 

Really?? When my choke is all the way in it shuts off the gas. I run it in the middle and it runs great and out is choke. Am I having issues that I shouldn't be having?

Also Wild Otz I think you could go up to a 180 main jet at sea level. I ran a 180 when I went to Glamis and it ran awesome.

 

Are these jets stamped with what they are? Stupid questions, i know, but I have no books yet, nor history on the bike that I can trust. The original owner knows less than nothing, he said that every year before Glamis season, he took it to Burts cycle and paid them $300 and they fixed what needed fixing, then he parked it again in April.. gas in the bowl, battery connected... but it had not been run in the last few years he said...

Hey, for the $1200 it cost me, I am okay with that! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

John

 

You do have me doubting myself, but I am pretty sure the choke works how I've described. I would suspect you have something else going on.

On both of my bikes, (airbox lid on, K&N air filters, OMR carb mods, needle in richest position), I am too rich if I go above 172.5 on the main jet, even at Glamis. I run a 167.5 in one bike, and 172.5 in the other. I suppose every bike is a little different, though.



<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: SilverBomb

Really?? When my choke is all the way in it shuts off the gas. I run it in the middle and it runs great and out is choke. Am I having issues that I shouldn't be having?



Also Wild Otz I think you could go up to a 180 main jet at sea level. I ran a 180 when I went to Glamis and it ran awesome.</end quote></div>

 

You will see a little stamp on the main jet when you take it out. It is small, but visible.

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: WLD_OTZ

Are these jets stamped with what they are? Stupid questions, i know, but I have no books yet, nor history on the bike that I can trust. The original owner knows less than nothing, he said that every year before Glamis season, he took it to Burts cycle and paid them $300 and they fixed what needed fixing, then he parked it again in April.. gas in the bowl, battery connected... but it had not been run in the last few years he said...



Hey, for the $1200 it cost me, I am okay with that! [img][/img]



John</end quote></div>

 

Oh yah, and the airbox lid is off, I do not even have one..... to be honest with you, I thought the auto type buld trim arounds the airbox hole matched up with the seat and the seat was the airbox cover.

John

 

Damn, $1200 is a great price man! And I would recommend taking the lid off anyway for dune riding. I don't run an airbox at all.

Jusrlax, what could cause my fuel to shut off when the choke is in? Or maybe we should direct this question at OMR, the master of the stock carb.