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Total Electrical Power Failure - 2016 Sportsman 110cc EFI

Old Dec 10, 2019 | 12:51 AM
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Dar86's Avatar
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Default Total Electrical Power Failure - 2016 Sportsman 110cc EFI

So I'm new here and was wondering if anyone here experience a total power failure after attempting an LED light bar install? What you did to troubleshoot it?

My son wanted a LED light bar and a dual accessory power outlet on his 2016 sportsman 110 EFI. I decided to use a 6 way fuse block w/negative bus to avoid power overload or any shotages. I connected a separate power cable from the battery to the fuse block and ground it to the handle bar frame.

Next I installed the power accessory to the 6-way fuse block with no issues. After that I installed at he LED light bar to the 6-way fuse block... worked great. However, I noticed the switch for the light bar has a green & red light (green ="on" and red ="off") ; the red light stayed lit with the key off.

I did'nt want it to drain the battery and so I decided to splice the power cable for the 6-way fuse block with the 12V power on (BRW wire) from key to send power to the fuse box. That way the key turns everything off. I tested it twice and still the red light stayed on. On the third try is where I am at now.. NO POWER WHATSOEVER!

What did I do wrong and what should I do to troubleshoot it? I did everything mention in the service manual and replaced the key switch and still nothing. I really hope I didn't short out the ECU! Should I've spliced it with on/off switch on LH handle switch instead?

I'd hate to sink anymore money in to this thing if I can. Gonna try have it up and running before Christmas for my son as part of his Christmas present.

Any help is appreciated!... oh and sorry for the dreadful long description!
 
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Old Dec 11, 2019 | 03:55 AM
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I am a bit reluctant to offer suggestions, as a humble quad mechanic who doesn't know what a "6 way fuse block with negative bus bar" is, but nobody else has had a go so:-

I surmise you fitted the set up direct to the battery in the first place, but wanted the key switch to turn that warning light off, so tried to connect it into the bike's loom. Firstly something was wrong with your wiring if the light stayed on after this mod, find out why. You stated you used the BRW wire for this, we need to know what this wire goes from and to, putting the full wiring diagram up on here, may help. There should be a main fuse between battery pos and ignition switch, which is probably what blew, but you need to find what blew it before putting a new one in. Don't ground anything to the handle bars either, their electrical connection to the main frame may be tenuous.

 
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Old Jan 8, 2020 | 02:59 PM
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merryman, I apologize for my incoherent explanation and I appreciate your support. In my previous thread I mentioned using a fuze block. A fuse block is used to distribute power in vehicular electrical systems. ... A fuse block provides multiple fuse circuits, usually 2 to 12 spaces.

Essentially, by doing so this will enable you to add other power accessories like charging ports, heated hand warmers, AUX lighting, power winch etc; to be added to the quad without over loading the main circuit.

I'm sorry for the long thread about this minor issue but this may help someone else. But heres what happened:

I connected the fuse block to the battery and accessories to the block etc.., that's when I noticed the "OFF" light for the LED lightbars' "ON/OFF" switch continued to stay illuminated after removing the key.


My overall goal was only to have power to my accessories when the ignition switch is set to ON... my thought was maybe if I spliced the fuse blocks' power cable with the Ignitions' Power On (BRW=Brown Wire) BRW, then everything would check out ok...NOPE after two tests, I failed.

The light bar worked within those two tests and eventually blew one of the main fuses... that's where I found the cause of my power failure.

In my defense of my initial prognosis, I had poor lighting to inspect the main fuses well enough in determining which fuse had blown.. so I proceeded to inspect other compnents.

In conclusion, after all this time it was one of the main fuse. I replaced fuse and now I have power.... thank God!

I eventually took apart the LEDs' "ON/OFF" switch, desautered the diode from the circuit, assembled it back together and rerouted the fuse blocks' power cable back to the battery as a temporary solution and everything works fine... but I'm sure there is a way to wire all that to the ignition key.

I have another inquiry in regards of adding these components. How can I determine if my stator will provide adequate power to these accessories and still be in the safe zone of not having to replace my stator.

My service manual states that the stator outputs:
- 80w at Idle 1700rpms
- MAX Output 6.5A @ W.O.T. (Wide Open Throttle =8500rpm)
Accessories & Power Requirements:
. #1. LED Lightbar:
  • LED Power: 175W High Intensity LED
  • Input Voltage: 9-32V DC (fits 12V, 24V vehicles)​​​​​​​
. # 2. Power Outlet:
  • Input: DC 12V / 24V
  • USB Output: DC 5V / 2.1A+1A
  • USB Power: Max 15.5W
  • Cigarette Lighter Socket Power: Max 60W
  • Voltmeter Range: 8-30V
  • Voltmerter Deviation: +-0.2V
  • Fuse: 5A
​​​​​​​Again, sorry for the long thread, thanks in advance!
 
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