Have you ever split the cases? It's not a job for the meek. You need to pull the motor and tear it all apart. Deff not just a left side thing. Bearings and seals would be installed.
Now, onto the diagram., 5 is the pin bearing and that will be replaced when you do the top end. 11 is the lower rod bearing, you won't be messing with that (no vertical play). You would change 13-14 (same bearing) and 15 the seals. I think you're fine with just cleaning the bottom and sticking the top end back on.
It appears that you are thinking about buying a new oem cylinder. There is no need to it will bore out just fine. New is $208..

ZROCK:: Thank you for your opinion. As wrong as it may be.. Here is a guy that can be on the seat again after minimal spent. You have him rebuilding the bottom end (and there is no gaskets) and buying a new cylinder. Which he needs non of. Stick with the chinese junk, you're better with those...

 

I have never split a case.
I took off the left crankcase, dang was that a process, lots of little bolts, screws in hard to get places. I can't believe this thing ran as well as it did with all that I have found. There was, what I assume to be mouse nest and insulation, all inside the case. I left off here

Next up, I need to remove the "drive face mounting nut" without the special tool, as suggested in the manual. Hopefully get to this tonight.



Oops, yep, 5 is included in the top end rebuild.
I will get those bearings and oil seals purchased.

I can get an new OEM suzuki cylinder for 39 here (crap, the item is gone, now but I have seen other OEMs for near that price.) Head cylinder here but I think I am fine and can just clean the head up???? I tried to clean with carb cleaner last night, did an OK job. Need to probably soak in something, I read water but need to double check that.

I am not entirely sure what you mean by there are no gaskets. I will be purchasing 11482-40B10 for the left crank case, as mine is completely torn.

I appreciate everyones help, I would have already paid for this atv twice in labor, had I taken it to a shop. Thank you

 

You took off the sidecover/clutchcover, and yes there is a gasket there. I never replace that.
I can tell, you better not split the cases (where we would us a bonding sealant, no gasket). It may be a bit more than you want to tackle, and I don't think you need in there anyways.
OK, the $the 39. cylinders. They are Chinese junk. They word them so the inexperienced buyer thinks it's all OEM. It's not. You'll be boring yours like everyone does, that does the job right.
Use a impact on the clutch nuts. No need for that tool.

 

Yep, used the impact, worked great, I read that in another thread you posted in, thank you.

That makes sense, I misunderstood "CRANKCASE LEFT COVER" on partzilla. I took off the clutch cover.

I will not split the case, however, seeing the attached pic, what more can I do to clean the bottom out?
Also, I won't need the bearings and oil seals as we previously thought, correct? Thats only when ACTUALLY splitting the case haha

That irritates me that sellers can get away with misleading the buyers, and maintaining a high reputation. Amazon, you can see the same.
My purchase literally says "Make: Suzuki" on the cylinder. The piston I purchased says the same. This is beyond misleading, it is literally false advertisement.
But won't that cylinder and piston set still work/fit, assuming I carefully chamfer the sharp edge off the sleeve at the ports. If not, I will have to see if I can cancel or return the order.

 

I use carb cleaner. Spray it in the bottom and spin the crank. It should feel pretty smooth. If a piece of metal did get in the bottom bearing, it can usually be washed out.
You can replace the 1 seal as you can see it there, but I don't think there is a need to.
You can do 2 things with that cylinder kit. 1) Send it back under "false advertisment, not OEM as stated". I'm told they would be happy to make a return.. As they should. They don't want to stir the pot. 2) Chamfer the ports, Make sure the ring gaps are ok, leave the squiggly ring out, and sand the piston with coarser sandpaper side to side so it can pick oil up. Cross your fingers.
All said and done, 100 bucks more and you can run it for another 20 years.

 

To each their own i guess... i have never and would never rebuild top end only when their were chunks missing out of the piston... i have always found chunks in the bottom... And before you say it yes i have rebuild my fair share of engines when i was younger.... but thats just me

 

I thank you for your replies and knowledge, its truly much appreciated. I think you are both right but given my very inexperience and lack of mechanical knowledge, the odds of some metal still being in the bottom end, after rotating the crank and listening carefully as suggested(I didn't hear anything), its best I don't split the engine. For someone with your experience, its a no brainer, split the engine everytime, when there are chunks of piston missing. Thanks zrock and lt80.

 

no funky noises when rotating the crank, I listened very carefully. Hopefully bottom end is good.
I received my piston today and to my surprise, the PACKAGING said suzuki all over it. Genuine oem parts. Didn't have 3 rings include, only two, which is also different from the cheap piston sets. However I am still skeptical, and would like if the pros can take a look and determine if its truly OEM suzuki piston or the cheapo piston. Should suzuki be inscribed somewhere on the piston???


AGAIN, thanks.

 

After receiving my piston and cylinder, I discovered the piston is too large for the new cylinder, as well as the old cylinder. After a little more researching, I believe my problem is the piston kit I bought 12100-40B00-050 here is .5 over the standard piston diameter(readers are saying "DUH!!"), which is 49.915 – 49.930. I should have bought this one which is for a standard bore.
Do I have a quick inexpensive option to get this piston/cylinder combo to fit? Take it to a machine shop to bore/hone or better off returning, buy the right size, and waiting another week for the correct piston size?
I found a used suzuki piston that can get here in 3 days but not sure if that is a wise decision, as its condition in the pictures could not be accurate or misleading.

Also, the rings that came with the piston seemed TO ME like they didn't sit inside the piston groove tight enough, meaning that when I do get them in the cylinder, they could be expanding at the port and cause damage?? Hopefully it's my misunderstanding and there is something that keeps them tight inside the piston groove. I confirmed I have the T side of the ring facing up, and also chamfered the ports where needed.

Thoughts?

 

Check the rings are right for the +0.5 piston, if they are, get the old cylinder bored out to suit the new piston and sell the new cylinder on. Rings have to expand to seal against the cylinder walls, The ends of the rings don't contact the ports as pegs on the piston keep the ends away from the ports, and the chamfers stop the rings catching on the ports as they pass. If the engine shop doesn't do it, you will have to chamfer the ports when you get the cylinder back, most engine shops don't do many two strokes, so may not realise the need to blend the ports in.