I was wondering how you check for "ground" when having problems with your demand drives..
I dont know how to use a ohms meter, so if you could, explain.

Thanks again guys,

Josh

 

well ohms tells you the resistance so take the ohmmeter and the circuit should look like this the neg connects to a switch then to a load then the pos side will go directly to the load and put the (ohmmeter on the load) what I put in the brackets is what you will pretty much need but added extras anyhow.Once you get the reading look at the gauge or screen to make sure there is no resistance. If anyone else has anything to add feel free.hope this helps. Are you sure you don't have a multimeter?

 

well i wanna check my ground on my AWD so what connection do I check?

 

to be honest I don't own a Polaris but check to see where the wiring from where you put it in awd goes to and check it to where it reaches, but let me ask what are you checking for anyhow?

 

I am checking for "ground" as someone called it. They told me it was a brown wire. I am not sure how to use an ohms meter so.. If you read my other thread called something like "Front Hub"Demand Drive" Help Needed" you will see what I have been going through. I am thinking my problem is electrical and not mechanical. I am working on my demand drive and trying to get my AWD to work. It hasnt been working for a while, and i refuse to take it to someone because I want to know how to work it and fix it myself. That might sound weird but I think I would be better off knowing how to do it myself, and I thought all you guys would know.

Hey bombrider04 you can PM me

 

alright I just read the other thread that you made and seemed to help me on what the problem is and what I would recommend is if my knowledge can't help go to the bombardier forum and there are some really smart people over there so maybe they will be able to help or even try going to the kawi forum because there is bruteforcebob who knows alot about 4x4's. I know what you mean when you say you want to do it yourself I learned alot doing stuff myself I just rebuilt my ds650 from the ground up but do not have a ute with 4x4 so from what I know I will try and help and try and get to the end of the problem. Alright I will start off my saying I think the problems is mechanical not with the switch I think that the problem is how the power is being transferred to the wheels themselves. So what I would do is check the front drive and make sure that the power is going to the differential or whatever drives the front wheels if it is that means that the front is atleast getting power. So that means the pumpkin or system that drives the front isn't delivering the power that it is recieving. So somewhere from there on is the problem.

 

one of the settings on the ohmmeter will let out a beep when you touch the two leads together(digital) if you don't have a digital one then the meter will just peg-out to the max...this is to check continuity...if you put one lead on a good known ground and touch any wire that should be a ground wire you should get the same beep or pegged-out meter. This will not tell you if your ground is $hitty (like only hanging on by one wire) cause it will act like it's a good ground anyway...

 

I am assuming you are attempting to check the resistance in the coil in the awd Hilliard system. I understand that someone told you to check your "ground" but if you are attempting to check the engagement system inside the front gearcase then you are not checking for ground, you are checking the wires going into the gearcase to see if the coil has the proper resistance or has shorted making it non-functional. To do this, if this is what you are attempting to diagnose, disconnect the connector in the wires going to the front gearcase. Using an ohm meter or multimeter set to the proper range of ohms, place one lead in one wire of the connector and the other lead in the other wire of the connector. There is a published spec for the proper range of resisitance that you should read for your model. If it reads within the published range the electrical component of the awd in the gearcase is fine. If not the coil and/or armature will need replacement. If you want to do all these repairs, which is great, spend the money and get the Service Manual from Polaris for your model. It will give you all the specs plus step by step how tos w/pictures for your entire atv. There will still be things to learn but it is not rocket science only quad science. You can do it.

 

Ok, there are two connectors going down to the gearcase I believe. I disconnected both and did what you told me with the ohms meter. It is reading 25 ohms on one connector and 24.9 on the other. I am guess thats it good?

 

The centralized Hilliard spec range is 22.8-25.2 ohms. Your Hilliard system is contained in each hub which is why you have two connectors. I would think that the resistance in your system would be the same, however, you should double check this with the service manual you are going to buy, hint hint, or with someone who has that spec like a Polaris tech or someone on here. The next thing you need to check is the other end of that connector going back to the battery. If you have a 2wd/4wd switch you will need to have it switched on with the key on and do the same thing you did before but to the other part of the connectors and with a voltmeter ranged to 12 volts. If you do not have the switch then check the connectors with the key on. This is to check to see that you are getting approximately 12 volts to the hub system. The spec for mine is 11.8-12.0 volts. Remember your battery must have a proper charge to attain this reading. If your battery is properly charged and you get no or inadequate voltage there is a problem to remedy with the supply wires. My manual says that is these tests are ok the problem is mechanical and disassembly must occur to diagnose further. Again the service manual for your unit may prescribe the same or other procedures for further diagnoses. Now go get that manual!