well to start with a major pain in the brain with my problems and after searching many posts i still haven't found my issue so here goes...

to start with there is no spark so like a normal guy i tried a new plug and no go so i tried several plugs and no go...

as i'm trying to figure out why i have no spark i've come across a lot of unanswered questions what i thought might be a stator problem seems to test fine @ 1.7 ohms codes 45,41,51,52 are showing up in that order! i'm thinking that code 45 t-bap sensor may be the some or all of my grief but would that cause no spark? how would i test the wiring to rule out the t-bap being an issue. also while hunting around on the quad i've noticed that my fuel gauge on the display isn't there (not sure if this is realated to anything) and now i don't hear the fuel pump pressuring up the fuel rail when the key is turned on

do all or any of these issues arrise from one another like no fuel pump because of a bad t-bap or no spark because of a bad fuel pump etc or is the quad smart enough not to keep pumping fuel in while i'm trying to start it time and time again ( i somehow doubt it )

I hope all this rambling on someone can make sense of it and shed some light on the gremlins that got the quad striped of half it's plastic lol...

 

Code 45 is usually the t-bap connector/harness problem,but most of the time you would still have spark,but with no spark the problem could be a crank sensor or harness, plus could even be an ecu problem. Best way to check the fuel pump is with a fuel pressure gauge,must hold 39 psi with no drop. No fuel display could be a problem in the display itself or pump related. Times like this is when about the best thing you can do is pay for an hours labor (in most cases) to have the atv hooked up to Digital Wrench.It should be able to find the no spark problem without you having to guess at it and dig through wiring,connectors and sensors. You can also check the t-bap harness for any bare or soft wires(internal breakage) but don't use the Polaris repair kits! Stronger kits are available. Check the "sticky" post in the expert section on efi problems on connectors and thin harness wiring. OPT

 

is there any voltage tests that i can do on the wiring harness for the fuel pump and t-bap sensor and coil input to help troubleshoot?

 

Just pull the fuel pump connector and turn the key on,you should have 12 volts on the brown(ground) and red/black wire.If it does and fuel pump doesn't prime up,pump could be a problem. You can also check that the fuses are good in the fuse block.Could have something to do with the no spark condition you're having, but if they check out ok,then the ecu could be suspect as it supplies spark to the coil.Again not too much you can trouble shoot on efi systems with out Digital Wrench.Sensors themselves are rarely a problem unless they've been tampered with.Be sure to check the sensor harness wires for any obvious breaks or soft spots in the wiring. OPT

 

there is no power on any of those wires for the fuel pump... what fuse would it be for the fuel pump on the slim chance it would be that? and could i use a ecu out of another 800 to check it out or does it have to be programed for my machine? i'm sure i already know better but would the ecu for a 500 work on a 800 only because i have one

 

The 15 amp fuse is for the efi system. The ecu also sends power to one of the two relays which sends power to the fuel pump. You can't swap ecus because they have to be programmed and a 500 module wont work. If you can't find the problem in the fuse block or fuse then it might be best to have it hooked up to Digital Wrench! OPT

 

it kinda sounds like i got to bite the bullet and take it to the stealership! after i bring it there and they figure out whats wrong mind you if it's simple and a cheap fix they can do it but if it's a more expensive one like a ecu can i get one somewhere else and what has to be done to make it work in my qaud... of course that's worst case

 

Even if it is the ecu and you find a used ecu module, the Digital Wrench has to reprogram it to your atv!! This is where you are limited on efi machines from doing a lot of the work yourself. Just like on most cars and trucks now. All you can do is change the oil,filters and plugs for the most part. OPT

 

well i'm in need of some info! under the cover for the stator there is two gears one for the starter and the other for the crank sensor. while trying to get the mag needle off with a 3 jaw puller (bad idea) i pulled the outside gear for the crank sensor off. is there a particular spot for this to go back on and does this affect the timming? dooh i should have waited to get the right bolts for my puller

 

Yep, you should have waited for the right puller! If you broke the timing gear from the flywheel,the flywheel must be replaced. There are two missing teeth on this ring that are timed to the flywheel so that when it passes the crank sensor,the sensor then sends the pulse to the ecu for ignition at the proper time. You have to use a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller on the flywheel,which you already know now.. OPT