Hey all, thanks in advance for any help.

I'll try to be kind of brief - have an 06 X2 that ran fine. Until it didn't. Bought it used - pull start never worked (rope had come off handle)

have pulled & swapped starter/bendix/solenoid, and in doing this realized the flywheel won't even turn, like the engine is seized.

Anyway, pull the flywheel and now it'll turn (thank god), but as soon as I clean the flywheel/stator & put it back on, its stuck again.

so here's my thoughts/question: on the inside of the flywheel, mine seems to have grown itself bulges where the magnets are - (looks like a bundt cake, my buddy said). I assume (but am not sure) that the inner ring is supposed to be completely smooth, yes? I think these bulges are what's locking it up - jamming because there's not any clearance like there's supposed to be.

Oh, and inside that cover most everything was covered in rust / gunk pretty bad.

Anyone with more experience here than me maybe able to chime in here?

 

I'd say you hit the nail on the head. With all the rust and such the magnets are being pushed off the flywheel and making contact with the stator stopping the ability to rotate.

Did you seal the pull cord nipple when the cord broke? This is similar to what happened to my sporstman. Water got into the pull cord case through the opening and rusted / shorted out the stator. Thankfully I didn't have any issues with the flywheel magnets.

Have you tested your stator as well? Coil to coil (yellow to yellow) should be about 0.43ohms and coil to ground (yellow to brown, or any point on the chassis) should be an open circuit. That was where mine failed, to ground.

Good luck with the fix!

 

Hey - thanks for the reply. I haven't tested the stator it looks ok now that's its clean - this is more a physical thing - like there's actual bulges inside the ring of the flywheel where the magnets are. Pretty sure it physically can't turn because of this, so I assume that its not supposed to be this way - I hadn't siliconed anything, because the cord handle was still on there, theoretically sealing it, but clearly there's been water in here in the past...

I guess more clearly the question I have is:

"Is the inner side of the flywheel supposed to be smooth, or are there bulges where the magnets are"

I can't get a great look at any online pics to figure it out & I have like an hour to get one ordered for delivery tomorrow (used - can't get one that fast new from anywhere I'm finding online). Supposed to be going to wolf pen gap in AR this weekend & trying to get this thing done by then.

 

There shouldn't be "bulges" no. The magnets are flat plate types which conform to the curvature of the flywheel. If there were no seams between the magnets you'd be hard pressed to tell they were there at all. My fear is that they may have rubbed the stator and caused damage. If you have an ohm meter it's a quick check to verify. You may need to get a new fly wheel.

 

Enclosed magnet flywheels were supposed to stop destroying stators like the older exposed epoxy glued in ones. But if the inner ring is bulged out, I'd replace the flywheel.Also most people over look the gear shaft bushings in the case and in the recoil itself. If these gall up,it places a load on the gear shaft and doesn't work as freely.http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-85-12-Polaris-Sportsman-Ranger-Trail-Blazer-Boss-Starter-Bushing-3083669-/120862342634?hash=item1c23f4fdea&vxp=mtr If the recoil rope is broken,might be time to repair it also as you never know when you might need it. Plus check the pick up coil to see if it's straight,hasn't been hit with rope debris and bent backwards out of adjustment (0.16 -.040) as many have done.

 

Oop. Sorry, forgot to say I'd replaced the pull start assembly. That's what lead to finding out the thing wouldn't turn over - pull on the rope & no budge..

Thanks for the help. I've got the flywheel on order & hopefully will get it on there & all will be good...

 

Hey all - one last (hopefully) question. (got new flywheel & it'll spin, so gonna put everything back together & see if she fires up)

This one's preventative I hope.

Does this 2006 X2 (efi) have fuses?

I'd not be surprised, with my stator/flywheel locked tight & trying to start it if I'd blown them. In physically searching, I haven't seen anything. Under the headlight, there's a screwed down case, but If I read online right, that's an edm maybe?

Anyway, just because I haven't seen a fuse yet doesn't mean there's not one. I had read people suggest looking at them on other threads where 500's are having trouble starting. Just trying to look out for any additional gremlins once I get it all back together.

 

ecu(brain box) sometimes even Polaris calls this an ecm is what's under the headlight pod area. The control module(pdm/ecm or what ever you want to call it since Polaris does at times also,is located up by the radiator. Had the circuit breakers and protection circuits.Item#15.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Ah. think I get it - if the pdm has been changed to breakers and not fuses, they should reset once the unit's stopped, correct?

Assuming its not bad of course - I vaguely remember something about a recall for one of those parts in my searches over the last week.


This machine is confusing : )
- there's wires running everywhere & not all of them actually connect to anything that looks like it makes sense. (found a set that tailed off in a gray plastic block under my front cargo box - no idea what that's for)

 

Most cases the breakers can reset if not burnt. Ecm recalls were on carb models only,not the efi machines.. And yes efi wiring is confusing at times,makes no sense.. The grey plastic block under the front cargo I believe is just a termination block. There is another block with a purple cover that should be the hook up for Polaris Digital Wrench software if one gets to the point that it doesn't run and you can't figure out what's wrong.Digital Wrench can find problems or at least narrow them down.