85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
Feb 21, 2012 | 09:30 AM
Trailblazer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: SO ILL
Does anybody know if LT250R shocks from an 89 model will fit on a 230?
I know some 250R shocks will fit, and on the vault it says 87-88 model fronts will swap with the lowest preload setting, but it doesnt say anything about the 89 model 250R. Is there a differnence. anybody tried them?
Anyone who has done the swap have any input? i found a pair for cheap that look to be in good shape, but they are for an 89 250R.
Also, for the rear shock, does anybody who has swapped out for a warrior rear have a spare stock one laying around that they would be willing to give up? they are hard to find.
Thanks
I know some 250R shocks will fit, and on the vault it says 87-88 model fronts will swap with the lowest preload setting, but it doesnt say anything about the 89 model 250R. Is there a differnence. anybody tried them?
Anyone who has done the swap have any input? i found a pair for cheap that look to be in good shape, but they are for an 89 250R.
Also, for the rear shock, does anybody who has swapped out for a warrior rear have a spare stock one laying around that they would be willing to give up? they are hard to find.
Thanks
Feb 23, 2012 | 12:45 AM
Pro Rider
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Does anybody know if LT250R shocks from an 89 model will fit on a 230?
I know some 250R shocks will fit, and on the vault it says 87-88 model fronts will swap with the lowest preload setting, but it doesnt say anything about the 89 model 250R. Is there a differnence. anybody tried them?
Anyone who has done the swap have any input? i found a pair for cheap that look to be in good shape, but they are for an 89 250R.
Also, for the rear shock, does anybody who has swapped out for a warrior rear have a spare stock one laying around that they would be willing to give up? they are hard to find.
Thanks
I know some 250R shocks will fit, and on the vault it says 87-88 model fronts will swap with the lowest preload setting, but it doesnt say anything about the 89 model 250R. Is there a differnence. anybody tried them?
Anyone who has done the swap have any input? i found a pair for cheap that look to be in good shape, but they are for an 89 250R.
Also, for the rear shock, does anybody who has swapped out for a warrior rear have a spare stock one laying around that they would be willing to give up? they are hard to find.
Thanks
Feb 23, 2012 | 09:07 AM
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
now to figure out the chain problem...
Feb 23, 2012 | 10:17 PM
Trailblazer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: California
I have been searching and searching....even had one lined up for 40.00 bucks but the guy got cold feet because I was wanting it through craigslist from his city in Kentucky, and I am in St Louis, I offered to talk on the phone and pay shipping and handling, use paypal, cash in the mail, what ever he wanted to know I was legit...but I guess he thought I was a Nigerian spammer or something! I finally just found on ebay for 80.00 and jumped on it, cover and the stator and wires... and the best part is after I bought it I saw they live about 20 minutes away so no shipping and get it today. I don't get that lucky that often.
now to figure out the chain problem...
now to figure out the chain problem...
Feb 27, 2012 | 02:17 PM
Elite Pro Rider
Joined: Mar 2007
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How did this happen?
Feb 27, 2012 | 02:58 PM
Elite Pro Rider
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,227
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well there is a big problem running automotive oil in the lt230s and e. if you use automotive oil be prepared for replacing the clutch sooner. auto oil breaks down the friction plates faster which will cause premature wear and eventually what i call "clutch barking". what clutch barking is, its the friction plates running on dry steel drive plates. after a while the steels which you can only get in OEM will discolor and warp. and the steels are hard to find for certain engine numbers. there are 3 sets of steels in OEM. and the EBC steels are junk and Vesrah doesnt make the steels anymore.
i asked the same question about oil choice a year and a half ago and no one could give a straight answer on it. so during my many engine builds i built one engine using auto oil and another with Valvoline Wet Clutch oil. i built them in the same week last June of 2010 and the auto oil engine needs some clutch work already and the other with wet clutch oil is perfect in every way. i tore the clutch covers off of both and found the difference.
auto oil = high wear about .057 down from new steel drive plates turning yellow warped out of spec
wet clutch oil= .003 down from new steel drive plates still shine no discloration no warpage
i may not know much about complex math, but .003 compared to .097 is a big difference. and built the engine exactly the same minus the oil. all parts were with .001 to .002 in tolerance. you cant get any closer to identical with those engines.
think about it, most of our engines are 20+ year old on the clutch life before they need replaced. if you use the right oil you should get 20 more years out of a new clutch.
i asked the same question about oil choice a year and a half ago and no one could give a straight answer on it. so during my many engine builds i built one engine using auto oil and another with Valvoline Wet Clutch oil. i built them in the same week last June of 2010 and the auto oil engine needs some clutch work already and the other with wet clutch oil is perfect in every way. i tore the clutch covers off of both and found the difference.
auto oil = high wear about .057 down from new steel drive plates turning yellow warped out of spec
wet clutch oil= .003 down from new steel drive plates still shine no discloration no warpage
i may not know much about complex math, but .003 compared to .097 is a big difference. and built the engine exactly the same minus the oil. all parts were with .001 to .002 in tolerance. you cant get any closer to identical with those engines.
think about it, most of our engines are 20+ year old on the clutch life before they need replaced. if you use the right oil you should get 20 more years out of a new clutch.
Oil newer than SF is slicker and makes the clutch slip a bit. If you've already used the new stuff, you'll have to clean the clutch plates with solvent to get the slick **** off. Its not as simple as just changing your oil. Then again, most people probably wouldn't notice a difference anyway. Just the racers and hardcore riders who power-shift the gears (keep the throttle pegged while fanning the clutch thru the gears).
Feb 28, 2012 | 09:55 AM
Trailblazer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: SO ILL
Just scored some new stuff for my 230 on ebay.
set of 250R front shocks with bushings - $33.00 incl shipping
stock 230S rear shock with bushings - $30.00 incl shipping.
The 250R shocks should be a big improvement up front, and the stock rear shock will be better in back too. I dont know what shock is on the rear currently(looks kinda like a 250R rezzie), but it has a different top mount than what the 230 is supposed to have, so its just kind of rigged in there at a slight angle, and it has maybe 2 inches of travel tops...it is STIFF and the adjustment ring is un-movable. It holds the rear end pretty low and you feel every bump. I didnt even know the mount was wrong because i never took the shock off until last weekend when i was changing the rear bearings. I decided while i had all the rear plastic off id pull that shock and try to adjust it, which did not work at all, and i found out it was the wrong dang shock anyway. gotta love previous owners. By the time i'm done with this thing it will be a completely different quad than what i bought a year and a half ago, i will definately have more money in it than what its worth lol
set of 250R front shocks with bushings - $33.00 incl shipping
stock 230S rear shock with bushings - $30.00 incl shipping.
The 250R shocks should be a big improvement up front, and the stock rear shock will be better in back too. I dont know what shock is on the rear currently(looks kinda like a 250R rezzie), but it has a different top mount than what the 230 is supposed to have, so its just kind of rigged in there at a slight angle, and it has maybe 2 inches of travel tops...it is STIFF and the adjustment ring is un-movable. It holds the rear end pretty low and you feel every bump. I didnt even know the mount was wrong because i never took the shock off until last weekend when i was changing the rear bearings. I decided while i had all the rear plastic off id pull that shock and try to adjust it, which did not work at all, and i found out it was the wrong dang shock anyway. gotta love previous owners. By the time i'm done with this thing it will be a completely different quad than what i bought a year and a half ago, i will definately have more money in it than what its worth lol
Feb 28, 2012 | 08:25 PM
Pro Rider
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
I went out riding yesterday along some gravel roads. Every once in a while I'd punch down a few gears and run up to around 50 mph. I started noticing some fishing around and sliding. It freaked me out for a while. I was getting scared my swinger bearings went again or maybe a hub was coming loose. To make a long story short, I though it might just be hitting the cam and spinning out. Sure enough, sit forward and pin it, and that little 230 will spin the tires at 40mph in 5th gear. How about that power?