I had a puller for that, I just did not have a puller that would work for splitting the actual cases apart. The manual mentioned a puller and gave a part number that seemed to be specific to splitting the cases. It appears to press on the end of the crank while pulling on a couple places on the side of the case. I had never used a tool to split a case before, other then a rubber mallet. I thought this case/crank might be different for some reason, but it was not. Banging a little on the crank did not really bother me, I am replacing the bearings anyway.

 

A 3 jaw puller?

 

My orig. shifter is toast. I've seen some suggested ways of repairing it, but it looks like a lot of work, especially if a different shifter would work.

The chain has definitely come off and broke the mag cover... multiple times haha. But I have a new cover on, and it seemed to be leaking more from the center of the engine, without the engine running...

Hopefully I'll get a chance to look at it this weekend, and hopefully I'll be able to return this shifter...just want to ride, so bad! Hoping it will be ready for a nice week long camping adventure when the semester is over in three weeks!

 

Anything other than the stock lever with all the linkage n leverage is going to make shifting hard and hard to find neutral and wear holes in your shoes like mine are. I'd love to have the stock shifter myself.

 

hmm, well I guess it's probably worth fixing then. Thanks for the info!

 

It appears to be a very large 3 jaw puller, yes. The case puller pictured in the Suzuki manual is part number 09920-13120 and is called "Crankcase separating tool". I believe that part number is discontinued now, not sure what has replaced it. It appears just to be a large puller with long "arms". I could see why one may want to use it if they want to avoid hammering on the end of the crank with a mallet, but I was not too concerned.

 

Another question. I do not like how one of the main bearings feels when I turn it, a little too much grinding for my liking. Also, the bearing that sits behind the clutch in the case feels bad as well. It seems silly to put it back together when the bearings may need to be replaced.

Has anyone done this? What is the best way to do it? In the past I have heated up cases in the oven and then was able to pop the bearings out. When installing I put the new bearings in the freezer, head the case and put the new bearing in. Is that the best way to replace these bearings?

 

Have you tried the fix that is suggested in the vault? I did that and it appears to shift fine, but I haven't been able to drive it yet, since I'm still waiting on an incredibly slow vendor to ship my front end bushings....

 

I'd just be worried about bending the flywheel using a 3 jaw puller. The cases come apart pretty easy.

 

I can't remember what kind of trouble I had getting bearings out, but yes that should work. Aluminum expands faster than steel so if you start tapping the bearings while heating the aluminum with a propane torch they should fall out. Aluminum transfers heat so quick, I don't think the cases with distort.