yeah, if thats all it does is raise the top of the shock it would bring the a-arms more horizontal and give you maybe a 1/2-3/4in more width.. But I would rather be able to clear a big rock than be lower.

 

Gforce, I posted a while back about clutches and everybody said they were all about the same. So, I bought the cheapest ones I could find, Clutch Factory for $35 shipped. And then the springs were another $10. They say the springs are stiffer,,, we'll see. I just threw the kit on the shelf for now, don't really need it yet, but I know its coming. Kevlar wears longer, but I dont know if it "sticks" any better (seems like it wouldn't). Seems to me the stuff that wears out the fastest would be the stickiest, but I dont know.

You need stiffer springs coz of the power increase over stock. You also might research the kind of oil you use too. I know in automotive trannies, you have to run a certain type (Dexron, Type F, Mercon, etc) for the clutches to work right. Every oil has a certain friction.

IMO, you want the stiffest springs you can get to fit,,, the only limiting factor is how hard do you want the clutch to be on your hand? That new 230 my bud got must have valve springs in there coz I almost need a c-clamp to squeeze the lever, lol.

 

oh, the springs for the 250 and 230 are the same. You need aftermarket springs that claim they are stiffer than stock. The 250 has one or 2 more plates than the 230.

 

You guys remember when I cut about an inch off my top rear shock mount? That lowered my seat height about an inch and made the back sit really low. Didn't affect my ground clearance at all because the middle of the frame is still higher than the axle. So, its all good! Handles much better. No downside unless you climb hills competitively. (I still didnt have any trouble climbing hills, but in theory I should have).

The front lowering kit just makes the front lower, but still not as low as the back axle. I'd say if you get the kit, go to 23 inch tires. That kit will also make you dive a little more in corners because of the geometry change of the a-arms, but having a lower center of gravity may offset that, but I doubt it, the a-arms are too short on the 230 and any change is greatly magnified in the angle of the arms. You want your arms to have a sharp downward angle to be stiff in corners, but still soft for bumps. Its a geometrical advantage.... And the lowering kit takes a little of that advantage away.

 

So, now I'm on the subject of chains. Since I'm going longer on my swingarm, I'll need another dozen or so links, so I'll just get a new chain. After doing all the reading on EK and DID websites, I've decided just to get a regular racing chain (the ones with no orings or xrings).

1) The xrings and orings are heavier than a regular chain (by a pound or 2). A 250 needs all the help it can get and a light chain will get more throttle response.
2) The xrings and orings have more friction than a regular chain. Who needs more of that?
3) A 250 doesn't need the same chain a 700 raptor uses. So, a regular chain on a 250 that is properly cared for may last about as long as an oring chain on a 700 raptor.
4) You could buy 10 regular chains for the price of 1 xring chain.

Now, the problem is who makes the lightest regular chain?

 

another long day in the garage. I am starting to enjoy it now that I have a routine. Its actually better then a jobby job.

I have decided to take morning off and take the 230 out for a spin. today was unseasonably beautiful, and all I could think about was riden. I am going to the old crannberry bogs to have a blast venting all worries for a few hours. CANT WAIT

i am picking up a running honda 250x in the afternoon to tear down at my shop. I think I might keep this one around a week or two just to blast around the honda seen a bit HAH HAH this guy says i will like it better then my lil turd (thats what I call my LT 230). I say he is nuts I am just not a fan of size. I like the smaller bikes, one of my favs being an old blaster that I sold in broke times.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

So, now I'm on the subject of chains. Since I'm going longer on my swingarm, I'll need another dozen or so links, so I'll just get a new chain. After doing all the reading on EK and DID websites, I've decided just to get a regular racing chain (the ones with no orings or xrings).



1) The xrings and orings are heavier than a regular chain (by a pound or 2). A 250 needs all the help it can get and a light chain will get more throttle response.

2) The xrings and orings have more friction than a regular chain. Who needs more of that?

3) A 250 doesn't need the same chain a 700 raptor uses. So, a regular chain on a 250 that is properly cared for may last about as long as an oring chain on a 700 raptor.

4) You could buy 10 regular chains for the price of 1 xring chain.



Now, the problem is who makes the lightest regular chain?</end quote></div>

ive always used just a regular chain, my dad knows this bearing/gear shop that he gets parts from for work and he gets cahin there, its really cheap and lasts pretty long, and i dont even take good care of teh chain lol

 

First off thanks again guys for the responses you help more than you know[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] I think this is the same spring set Clutch springs that PoolGod got for his 230. Btw PoolGod did you notice if these were any stiffer during clutch operation? I don't think I want to feel like I have to use a c-clamp to pull the clutch while trail riding like JustRandy's buds quad lol. I need the ability to go up and down the gearbox very quickly on the trails[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34

First off thanks again guys for the responses you help more than you know[img][/img] I think this is the same spring set Clutch springs that PoolGod got for his 230. Btw PoolGod did you notice if these were any stiffer during clutch operation? I don't think I want to feel like I have to use a c-clamp to pull the clutch while trail riding like JustRandy's buds quad lol. I need the ability to go up and down the gearbox very quickly on the trails[img][/img]</end quote></div>

I don't have the clutch installed yet, but should not be hard to pull. I have Barnett kevlar racing clutch on my 400ex with the stiffer springs, barely noticed a difference. Kevlar hooks up real good, no slips, and wears longer.

But even if it is hard to pull, no big deal, I only use it to get rolling in 1st, or hard downshifts..

 

Gforce, I dont use the clutch when shifting gears. I keep power to the ground longer that way. Shift time is almost instant. I only use the clutch when starting off or when I need it to rev out and hopefully spin the tires or slide. 99% of the time though I never touch the clutch, so tight springs aint the bad for me.