Black is not 87.... Does your engine have the place for an odometer? I'm pretty sure only the 85 and 86 had that. SHould be on the left side under the carb and on top of the engine case. A little plug you'd never guess what its for if I hadn't already said something. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Pierced

Alright so I pulled the magneto cover off again to check and see if there was any adjustment to it, and got it to move down a little. I put it all back together and it started up and ran great for an hour or so. I was sitting there in neutral with it idling it died and wont start again. Now I was doing some searching around on the forum and found a post that said there wasent supposed to be oil in that side of the case, is that correct? Could the oil in that side of the case be effecting my spark?



If that is the case what is it going to entail to repair this?</end quote></div>

I am usually wrong, that being said, as far as I know, oil should be everywhere in side these engines!

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34

Wow been crazy round here. I bought a 1976 Starcraft Starlette XL Pop-up camper and then I turned around and bought a 2006 F250 Superduty 4x4. Anywho I hope to get the motor on the quad completely assembled today and if things calm down have it running by this weekend.</end quote></div>

I had the exact same trailer till about a year ago! Geez, was it ugly, but dang functional!! We took that thing everywhere! wind, snow, rain, fun lil thing, it survived it all!!! We called it the ghetto guest house!! Gave it to my neighbor when we bought our toyhauler..... Still goin to this day, and still ugly as sin![img]i/expressions/devil.gif[/img]

 

Question: im not quite there yet but how do you get the valve springs back on with out a valve spring compressor? btw im not to worried about my safety lol

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Pierced

Alright so I pulled the magneto cover off again to check and see if there was any adjustment to it, and got it to move down a little. I put it all back together and it started up and ran great for an hour or so. I was sitting there in neutral with it idling it died and wont start again. Now I was doing some searching around on the forum and found a post that said there wasent supposed to be oil in that side of the case, is that correct? Could the oil in that side of the case be effecting my spark?



If that is the case what is it going to entail to repair this?</end quote></div>

There IS supposed to be oil in that side of the case.

Although I'm not an expert in physics, I've had a few classes and have a fair understanding of how a magneto works. That being said, I don't think it really matters where the magneto is positioned so long as the magnet (aka flywheel) turns around it. A couple mm is not going to make a difference. All that is required is that the magnet move by the coil to make charged particles flow (aka current).

Its starting to sound like the problems begin when things heat up. If that is true, I will start suspecting coils to be the problem. What I would do is hook an ohmmeter to the magneto coil when you cannot get a spark and take a reading. IF the reading is infinite or zero, there is the problem. The reading should be 150-350 ohms. The pick up coil should have 100-200 ohms and the lighting coil should have 0-2 ohms.

If you are certain the flywheel is touching the magneto, then your crankshaft is probably bent. The cranks on these engines are relatively small. If you jump and land on concrete or something equally hard and give it gas at the same time, there is a possibility you can bend the crank. It depends if the piston is at the power stroke the same time the shock wave travels up the drive line and if the 2 shockwaves meet at the crank, it will bend fairly easy.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: quadsport230

Question: im not quite there yet but how do you get the valve springs back on with out a valve spring compressor? btw im not to worried about my safety lol</end quote></div>

Just get a piece of metal about .5-.75 inches wide and about 2 or 3 inches long. Bent the metal in the shape of a U but make the bottom of the U flat. Now find a C-clamp (a 6 inch clamp should do). You may need another set of arms to help hold everything, but with a little diligence, you can hold the U to the clamp and squeeze the spring onto the valve stem. Then put a little grease on the retainer thingy so it doesn't fall off after you position it and use some needle nose pliers to stick it to the valve stem. Do the second one. Then push them down to make sure they are seated right. Then let up on the clamp. Viola. And you didn't even need to wear a helmet. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

thanks randy, with some luck my parts might be in today. i just need to get soem lapping compound, hone the cylinder and im good to start the rebuild. im kinda getting a littel giddy lol!

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

Black is not 87.... Does your engine have the place for an odometer? I'm pretty sure only the 85 and 86 had that. SHould be on the left side under the carb and on top of the engine case. A little plug you'd never guess what its for if I hadn't already said something. [img][/img]</end quote></div>

it does. i did look at it wondrering what it was. now i know. i guess the best way to determine which bearings i need is to take the old ones out.

 

I use this site a lot because its fast. http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_atv_parts.htm Bikebandit has the same thing, but it take a really long time to load up. Bikebandit and cheapcycleparts are about the best places I found for OEM stuff. Anyway, check those sites and compare part numbers for each yr to figure out what you'd need to buy. Then check ebay too for cheaper prices.

Bruicat, I think somebody just put an 87 or newer s-arm on yours because the bearings were probably bad in the original. The 87, 88 just happened to be what they had available to them.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: quadsport230

thanks randy, with some luck my parts might be in today. i just need to get soem lapping compound, hone the cylinder and im good to start the rebuild. im kinda getting a littel giddy lol!</end quote></div>

I hope I don't end up bursting your bubble,,, but I'd want someone to tell me. You need to check your rod for play. It shouldn't wiggle very much at all. Moving side to side is ok, but not rocking side to side. There is a difference. Also, if you put the wrist pin in the rod and it wiggles any at all, your piston will flop all over in the cylinder. If your rod is worn out, your new bore job will be junk in 6-9 months or so.... Depending on how hard you ride it and how good of a job the guy did that bored it. The tighter the bore, the better the piston will stay straight. Therefore, if your rod is worn, don't hone very much off. Just hone enough to get the cross hatch and stop! (The guy that bored it should have honed it too). My .060 job only lasted me 9 months and I didn't really ride it that much. But when I did ride it, I beat the **** out of it! In 9 months it was smoking. Too bad I didn't know about the rod issue back then when I did the bore job.

If you want to correct the rod problem, you can send the crank off and get a new rod that is stronger than stock for $130. That's what I'm doing and that's one of the reasons its taking me so long to get mine up n going. I decided I don't want to keeping boring it out every year. Plus, I'm getting a +4 rod so I can rev out a little more.