What!? haha who said I was going to sell it? I said I bought this one and am selling my lt230 FOR this quad lol

As far as porting goes, you mean change the angle/width and such of the port? That is more money I would have to pay the shop down the road, it needs plenty of other things right now. However what I was thinking about doing was using a dremel and some small polishing felt bits to bring the inside of the ports to a mirror like finish but I read somewhere online that can screw up the power in low RPMs or something like that (which dosent make sense to me UNLESS you change the dimensions of the port)

 

I just did the same thing today that you did. I pulled my flywheel on my old 230 engine and then split the cases. Im going to be doing the same thing on my lt250s engine tomorrow. I noticed that the bearings on yours didn't stay in the cases. Are they supposed to stay in the cases when you split the cases or they supposed to stay attached to the transmission and crank, do you know? I would probably skip the port work by hand, it might mess it up if its not done correctly. Just wondering how much did the welder charge you to weld the case, I may buy a new case or just weld it, not sure yet.

 

I read "sometimes they stay in the case and sometimes they do not" did not say if it was a bad thing or not.

http://forums.atvconnection.com/suzu...ankcase-2.html

I have not got the bill yet, it will be for the case half and swing arm combined ($50-100) the shop has a $50 minimum and their rate is $80 an hour.

You know that empty compartment that supposedly held a tach in other models on a motorcycle? Well I need to make my own cover since they don't really have them on ebay and everyone else's gets chewed up. I was thinking I could use an old street sign to cut a piece out of, those are made out of thin aluminum right? They should be able to polish up like a mirror (the backside).

 

How'd the welds come out? I have been working on splitting my cases on my lt250s, but I can't get the sprocket bolt off, its so tight. Did yours come off easy on the 250r?

 

also, you know on page 6 where the nut spun off. When you replace it, I would first check and make sure that there is not supposed to be a bent washer on it. Because if there is, you put the washer on, then you torque the bolt down, and then you bend the washer on one side of the nut, to stop the nut from moving, thats how my crank works, I wouldn't use locktite on it, unless its your last resort.

 

Yeah mine was on there pretty good, use an impact wrench dude it will take it right off in a heartbeat that's what I did.

As for the balancer driven gear, it has a torque rating 43-58 ft lbs. So anywhere in there should hold it (I will probably go 50-55) and the balancer drive gear is rated at 50-68 ft lbs.



According to this #10 has two parts on the list, #10 is out of production and just says washer, replacement 10A says washer, and replacement 10B says lock-washer. The Clymer does not say to thread-lock it so I will torque a lockie instead.

There will be a nasty rebirth assembly video to come out of this, trust me!

 

I got some Threebond and Permatex Ultra Slick engine assembly lube (#81950) I ran into the local motorcycle guru at the auto parts store and he said this will work fine but not to use it on the rings. I'll coat the bearings up nice with it, they are on their way out anyway.


These are the flywheels side by side, the one on the left came off the running engine, the right is my spare. The rivets are a bit chewed up on the left one:


Also the rear of the one off the engine is all ground down and "dug out"



I think I should definitely swap them out, this is the only major chunk in the spare:



They both say F3T195 71, the only difference is one says 5Y01 and the other says 4X01

 

I would weigh them and see if there is a difference in weight. I think on the 250r, they need to be balanced on both sides of the crank right, so I would make sure to check the weight.

 

What? There is not a flywheel on both sides of the crank I'm not sure what you are talking about. But I will mention this to the guru at the shop when I visit and see what he has to think. If anything the new one will be heavier because it's not all scraped out and such.

 

Ok, I just looked into it for you. Looks like the flywheel itself needs to be balanced. Which I would assume means even amount of weight on both halves of the flywheel. I would go with the one on the right just because its in poort condition, but I would be worried about weight issues because the flywheel has holes drilled in it. I'm pretty sure when you have alot more weight on one side and less weight on the other side, it will create more vibration and probably less power. Its kind of like an xbox 360 controller vibrator. There is a "crank" and connected on one end of the "crank" is a "flywheel", but the flywheel is really heavy on one side and light on the other, this creates the rapid vibration you get in the controller when it spins. The vibration will increase as you increase rpm's. It might not do any damage internally, but it will probably vibrate more and you might see a little less power.