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2002 Eiger 400 carb problems

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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 09:54 AM
  #31  
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OK, Here's what happened. I checked compression and it was around 115 to 125. Put some gas in the tank and tried to start her. Finally started up and ran. Very fast idle and the idel screw had no effect. The vacuum needle does seem to be pulling out of the jet. In nuetral she will only rev about 1/2 and very rough. Shut her down and she wouldn't start again. Pulled tha carb again and took it apart and cleaned it again. She started again but ran the same way. I thought maybe I couldram it into gear and get it on the trailer but it didint quite work because my ramps were misaligned. Had to shut her down because I couldn't get her out of gear, due to the fast idle. Now she will only start with starting fluid in the carb and dies once that's burned. The only ggod news here is that I have her back home in the garage but Im at a total loss of what to do next.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 01:09 PM
  #32  
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Are you sure you have fuel in the bowl? Can't remember if I asked that. Just open that drain screw on the bottom to tell.

Is it possible you have an intake air leak. That would be letting additional air in between the carb and the cylinder. You can visually check that for cracks. If you can get it running, spray carb cleaner all around the intake and if the motor surges, then you have a leak somewhere.

Another thing to look out for is kind of hard to explain. There should be an air or vaccum hose coming off the carb that gets snaked up and vented near the fuel tank. If that hose gets kinked or blocked, your quad will stall. Mine was dangling and everytime I went into deep water and the hose went underwater, I would stall.

Your compression is on the low side. You can tell if you have worn rings by adding a capfull of oil to the cylinder, then running the compression test again. If it jumps up by 30psi or so, then you've got worn rings. Again, make sure you are testing at WOT to get a good reading. Keep cranking until it tops out.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 10:05 AM
  #33  
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have you taken both jets out and made sure all the tiny holes are cleaned, sometimes have to use a small tip cleaner for a cutting torch to get the little ones in the pilot jet clean, also sounds like it might be sucking air thru carb boots, check them closely for cracks, did you replace the o-ring on the choke?that could be your vacume leak., did you clean out gas tank and start with fresh gas?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 02:46 PM
  #34  
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OK, boy do I feel stupid. I gave up on fixing this and drug it 300 miles back to my house. Then I paid a mechanic 50 bucks to come get it and diagnose it and then fix it. I didint know these ATVs would not run without the air filter and box hooked up! He put the filter and the assorted connections on and it runs fine. It was probably OK when I 1st rebuilt the carb almost a year ago. So $35 for a carb kit, $125 for professional rebuild, $250 for the mechanic to pick it up, tell me nothing is really wrong and deliver it back to me, plus towing it back from W TX. I guess you live and learn.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:03 PM
  #35  
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Dude, you kill me! Yeah, it will be getting a lot more air without the air box hooked up, and that will have quite an effect on how it runs. Glad you got it figured out, though. Enjoy!
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 09:35 PM
  #36  
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Talking 2006 Suzuki Eiger 400

Hi Guys! We have a 2006 Suzuki Eiger 400 4x4 and we already put in a carb kit but it is still running rough. It starts and runs fine but when you give it gas or put it in gear it starts spitting and sputtering and dies. Any suggestions? Was told that it may be its getting to much air???? Would appreciate any help we could get.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 03:05 AM
  #37  
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Eigers do like choke, have you given it long enough, on part choke, to warm up? I'm not a fan of carb kits, I would clean the old jets and put them and the old needles back. Have you fitted a non standard fuel tap? The Suzuki one has a vacuum line, if that is disconnected it will suck air down the vac pipe. Change the plug, it may be that, or another electrical fault. The colour of the old plug nose should tell you if it is running rich or weak.
 
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