I just read a reply that ward posted in the wake my raptor thead. I thought it was good.

How do YOU decide where to adjust to? 2,21/4 yda, yda, yda.....

Might as well throw in the needle clip position? Where and Why????

 

Well 14mins, good question. I will give you what I had with my Trinity 686 using the stock carbs and an entirely open airbox, which may or may not help anyone.

Sorry sooooo.... long!

This also backs up "chimmers claim" in another topic and or post.

* I tried the stock pilots and adjusted the air/fuel, I tried the 25 pilot and adjusted the air/fuel and tried the 27.5 pilots and adjusted the air/fuel. I ended up with (after alot of testing over a 2-3 month period) using the stock pilots. Why? well I will get to that.

I found that when adjusting the air/fuel, it ran best when dialing it in this way. I would adjust them with the quad off. Once adjusted, I would fire her up, let her warm up and take it for a spin. After she was good and warm I would let her "decelerate" down a hill. If she popped at all she was lean. I would then go back and go 1/4 turn richer on each and do the entire process over, until she didn't pop any more.

Now, I tried this method when using the 25 pilots and 27.5's too, but she never seemed to be as good as with the stock 22 pilots. I also know that when using the larger pilots you need to run the air/fuel leaner, which I never found to be any better then the stock pilots. I found it too be quite worse with the 27.5, for sure.


* Regarding the needle position. I again did alot of work to find a way to get rid of that little bit of hesitation that "chimmer" speaks of, when running an open airbox. I tried every clip position with the stock needles and could get it close, but never right on. I then decidied since I had that DJ kit sittin ther, what the heck, I'll try those needles. Again, went through all the clip positions with a little bit better result, but again, not perfect.

What I ended up with was using the stock pilots, air/fuel adjusted to where on decelaration it would not pop and used the DJ needles. I found the best results using the DJ needles then with the stockers. I used the #4 position and think that the #4 on the DJ needles is a bit different then the #4 on the stockers. I determined that the DJ needles gave that "inbetween adjustment" that it just needed. It wasn't perfect, but was alot better then before. It did still have a hesitation if you really were looking to feel the quad.

* This leads me to believe that using an open lid on the Rap, with the stock carbs, YOU WILL NEVER GET IT PERFECT! No matter what set-up you use, DJ jets, Mikuni jets, bigger pilots, stock needles, DJ needles, etc, etc, etc....

The stock carbs just cannot be dialed in perfect when using a "completely open airbox". Now, you might get better results if you just modify the lid a bit, but I found it hard to really dial in with the lid completely off.

Hope this sheds "some" light on your quest to get her dialed in.


Swy

 

Iam confused about the popping when you get. Is this the same as what I am getting it doesn't matter what gear I am in but if I rev the quad all the way out till you are ready to shift, and instead of shifting you let off the throttle and let the motor slow the quad down I get popping there is that normal

 

I* am not sure I understand exactly what you are saying JJ. Please explain if you are in gear and when letting off you have the clutch in or out.

#1 If your coasting with the clutch pulled in, it shouldn't be doing anything except coming to an idle.

#2 If it is when you wind out, then just let off the gas with the clutch let out and it's popping, then YES you are lean or have an exhaust leak somewhere.

Understand?

If it's #2, check your exhaust sytem at every possible point it could leak from, if that seems good - then try to richen up the air fuel a 1/4 turn at a time and try it again til it goes away.

 

#2 is the one I don't think I have a exhaust leak I put my hand over the end of the pipe when running and I don't hear it leaking out. I might try squirting a little oil in the carb and see if I see a leak...

 

swytak says
"decelaration it would not pop (showing lean condition)"

When

he says agine

"and it's popping, then YES you are lean"

so when is it lean?? popping or not popping

 

Swytak- Thanks for the info. I am wanting to try 25 pilots. I thunk a lot can be had by getting the carbs dead on. Mine had a good reading in the dyno for the air/fuel mixture all away across the board.

 

Rapheal, SORRY.

Popping IS LEAN, not is not.

I will re-read my statement and edit if necessary.

 

Swy and Co. Excellent post. I've heard al this bull about bigger idles until I'm blue in the face, everyone's convinced bigger is better.

What I've found in my very limited mucking around is that the carbs are very sensitive on the idle screw settings, 1/4 turn can be a night and day difference and that to get the midrange right you need a gas analyisers. We found that leaning the DJ needles 1 notch cost us a 25% torque loss at 3000 rpm. The needles on these carbs seem to make a hugh difference to the fueling in the critical low - mid range. Secondly the main jets influence is from 1/2 throttle up which was a bit surprising.

Interestingly my 02 R has different needle jets in the carb bodies than my 01, they have larger drillings in the side of the needle jet "tube" and 5 holes up the side instead of the 3 on the 01. My 02 seems to run leaner in the mid than my 01. I'm going to get the 02 on the dyno once it's had a few more hours running, but so far with an identical jetting setup and parts as my 01 it doesn't runs as hard on top for sure............ disappointed. As for the different gear ratios, didn't notice em...............

It would seem that the 02 carbs respond differently to the 01............ another complication in the Raptor jetting saga........

Kiwi