Yamoto 150cc Review
#131
Mandrake51, I too was amazed what widening the track of a yamoto 150 would do for it's look's. To me it makes it look less like a toy and more like a machine. I could not stand that front bumper and wanted to make a new one but my wife over ruled me on that one. However now that it has a wider stance I like the look's of it a lot more.
#132
hello. just bought the new kazuma rfx 150 does anyone know if it's the same bike as the yamato 150? If so has the problems the yamato had have they been fixed or upgraded with this new unit? can someone tell me if the wheel flipping is just one side to the other? If you can't tell new to the atv scene bought it for x-mas present for my son. any help would be apperciated.
#133
Originally posted by: tbweasel
hello. just bought the new kazuma rfx 150 does anyone know if it's the same bike as the yamato 150? If so has the problems the yamato had have they been fixed or upgraded with this new unit? can someone tell me if the wheel flipping is just one side to the other? If you can't tell new to the atv scene bought it for x-mas present for my son. any help would be apperciated.
hello. just bought the new kazuma rfx 150 does anyone know if it's the same bike as the yamato 150? If so has the problems the yamato had have they been fixed or upgraded with this new unit? can someone tell me if the wheel flipping is just one side to the other? If you can't tell new to the atv scene bought it for x-mas present for my son. any help would be apperciated.
As for the front tires on a yamoto, the tread pattern is directional so you must swap sides to keep the tread going in the right direction. If your tires are not directional then just turn them around, just make sure that the valve stem's dont interfear with anything on the inside, if they do you could always get shorter valve stem's. And cover that kid with as much protective gear as you can afford.
#134
Yes, make sure you get as much protective gear as you can afford for the child. The 10 year old I am teaching to ride has crashed into me once, flipped once, and then tipped it over once. Spills are inevetable but injuries are very preventable. I have put everying on him from robust riding pants/jerseys, helmet, chest/back protection, goggles, gloves, elbo/forearm, and knee/shin protection. Gloves, goggles, and of course the helmet are ESSENTIAL. Novice or not, when a spill occurs and he/she decides to take soil samples they'll be well prepared and protected.
I would also recommend making sure the helmets used are SNELL approved. All helmets will say "DOT" on them to reflect the "Dept. of Transportation" approval but that is not much. There is not real battery of tests or approvals that must be passed before a manufacturer puts "DOT" on the back of their helmets. Basically the DOT does take it upon themselves to occasionally evaluate select helmets and test their rigor. However, 50% of all tested helmets come back as NOT meeting the DOT standards, even thought they have the "DOT" sticker on them. So the "DOT" unfortunately doesn't mean very much...scary thought huh?
SNELL is an independent testing associationg that has rigerous standards to say the least. Manufacturers voluntary join, but all major and reputable manufacturers have SNELL approval on the back of the helmet (Thor, O'Neil, Shoei, Fox, etc, etc.). SNELL not only tests but charges $$$ per SNELL sticker that the manufacturer places on their helmets. They are also tested randomly. If 2 out of 3 random helmets fail from any given manufacturer, they are then gone through of series of tests further. If satisfactory requirements are not met, they are required to recall the helmets and forfeit their existing SNELL stickers unitl they are brought up to spec. SNELL approved helmets don't cost much more than non-SNELL helmets but there can be a BIG difference.
SNELL also dates their stickers. You might see "SNELL 2000" or "SNELL 2002" etc. This tell what year or new stardard release date that this helmet meets. If you see, "SNELL 90" then this is an early 90's vintage helmet and should not be used. The general rule is that a helmet that is over 5 years old, it should not be used. This is due to aging foams, etc. that diminish the real integirty of the helmet.
This is the true standard if a helmet is really worth it...its only your head.
I would also recommend making sure the helmets used are SNELL approved. All helmets will say "DOT" on them to reflect the "Dept. of Transportation" approval but that is not much. There is not real battery of tests or approvals that must be passed before a manufacturer puts "DOT" on the back of their helmets. Basically the DOT does take it upon themselves to occasionally evaluate select helmets and test their rigor. However, 50% of all tested helmets come back as NOT meeting the DOT standards, even thought they have the "DOT" sticker on them. So the "DOT" unfortunately doesn't mean very much...scary thought huh?
SNELL is an independent testing associationg that has rigerous standards to say the least. Manufacturers voluntary join, but all major and reputable manufacturers have SNELL approval on the back of the helmet (Thor, O'Neil, Shoei, Fox, etc, etc.). SNELL not only tests but charges $$$ per SNELL sticker that the manufacturer places on their helmets. They are also tested randomly. If 2 out of 3 random helmets fail from any given manufacturer, they are then gone through of series of tests further. If satisfactory requirements are not met, they are required to recall the helmets and forfeit their existing SNELL stickers unitl they are brought up to spec. SNELL approved helmets don't cost much more than non-SNELL helmets but there can be a BIG difference.
SNELL also dates their stickers. You might see "SNELL 2000" or "SNELL 2002" etc. This tell what year or new stardard release date that this helmet meets. If you see, "SNELL 90" then this is an early 90's vintage helmet and should not be used. The general rule is that a helmet that is over 5 years old, it should not be used. This is due to aging foams, etc. that diminish the real integirty of the helmet.
This is the true standard if a helmet is really worth it...its only your head.
#135
Originally posted by: Poohbear
I checked on bikebandit.com and LT 160 shocks are $144 each new....ouch!!! I ain't paying $144!
I checked on bikebandit.com and LT 160 shocks are $144 each new....ouch!!! I ain't paying $144!
#137
[quote]
Originally posted by: Poohbear
Thanks for the consideration mywifesquad. Do you know the bolt pattern by chance? Maybe then I could get some aftermarket spacers. q]
The bolt circle diamater is 4.33"
The metric equivelent is 110mm.
4 Bolt's are used. Hope this help's your search
Originally posted by: Poohbear
Thanks for the consideration mywifesquad. Do you know the bolt pattern by chance? Maybe then I could get some aftermarket spacers. q]
The bolt circle diamater is 4.33"
The metric equivelent is 110mm.
4 Bolt's are used. Hope this help's your search
#139
Hello everybody! I am new here and have a question. I am 5'11" and very muscular to the tune of 245 pounds. I have never owned an atv before and I am just looking for something to screw around on. I will not be jumping it or flying around on it. I have a hunting spot that has alot of winding path's and want something to drive around through the woods. Is this 150 strong enough to do the job? When I am not hunting I will go maybe once a week to blast back through the woods and have some fun.
#140
I'm new here so bear with me.
When you talk about swapping the rims to get the extra width in the front, what about the hubs for the front drum brakes? Wouldn't they be on the outside then. If I remember correctly from putting the wheels on, the front rims had the brake hubs welded on the inside.
Thanks
When you talk about swapping the rims to get the extra width in the front, what about the hubs for the front drum brakes? Wouldn't they be on the outside then. If I remember correctly from putting the wheels on, the front rims had the brake hubs welded on the inside.
Thanks






