hay big bad, happy hallidays.
I was wondering were you have been.

Well lets start from the beginning.
First you remove the head pipe (stock)then you remove the split pieces (yours fell out), you slide the collar that the studs from the head go through, then the split pieces go around the header in between the collar and the head.
It is much easier to take some masking tape and take one wrap around the split pieces then slide the header in place (don't forget the copper gasket) the split pieces will slide up the header and then the collar slides up next. The studs will go througth the collar, then put on the nuts.
Only snug the nuts down then go back and forth to each nut untill thier tighten, don't over tighten them and snap the studs off.
Also get some high temp rtv (black) and put it on the inside of each joint so when you tighten the hose clamps you will get a good seal.

 

sorry hit post by accident.
So here how it goes the split pieces go between the tip of the header and the collar.
The collar will push on the split pieces, wich they push on the raised portion of the header to get a positive fit.
Now all I got was maybe one thread to show on the studs when I tighten the nuts down, so don't be alarmed when the nuts don't screw way down on the studs.
Hope that all makes sense, I think faster than I can type.

Now the missing bolts, are you referring to the cover that is up on the head, on the filter side, this is were your cam is.
No matter were the bolts came from replace them.
You put way to much time on this thing with the pipe like that, change the oil and the filter and hope thiers no metal on the filter.
You may want to check your compression and your valve clearence.
This is a tough little machine you may have nothing to worry about.
Good luck and check back if you have any questions.

 

Gaff-Do you no anything about it running hot. Is it to rich or lean the pipe get really hot quick? I need to get a new plug and check the plug to see if it's running lean or rich. I'm thinking of selling the pipe and just running teh stock one.

 

The pipe runs hotter than the stock because of the absense of the heat gaurd by your leg.
If you install it correctly you will love it, totoly different bike.
No doubt it's running lean the way it's hooked up now, the stock jetting is rich and should be ok.
If you run lean, you can remove some disc and fatten it up.
Selling the pipe would be a mistake.
Take your time and don't get nurvous you can do it!!!!!When you get the pipe done, I'll help you set up the carb

 

It can set there and run for 5 minutes and the silencer is red hot. Now if i didn't have that big leak it might of been ok. I'm running no disk right now because one of the screws twisted off.And i am running a open air intake under where the headlight is I removed the rubber piece that went over it.
Thanks for all you help Gaff i plan on messing with it tommorow.

 

Hey Guys,
Gaff, I forgot to tell you about the stock heat guard. I do not understand why Supertrapp does not provide a spot to attach the stock front heat guard, as they did in the rear near the air box. I was practically burning my leg, even with jeans. I decided I needed the heat shield on the Supertrapp headpipe, so here is what I did. It is simply and works great. I bought 2 metal hose clamps, painted them with high heat black, and attached them around the headpipe with a nut on the inside of each clamp in the same location as the stock heat guard screw holes(nut between headpipe and clamp) and then simply tighenten the clamps in order to hold the nuts inplace. I then attached the heat guard with the stock screws and washers to the nuts. It works great. The clamps are hidden buy the heat guard and it fits the Supertrapp bend perfectly. I now can ride without worrying about burning my leg. Easy, cheap and practical. Try it out. See ya
Lakota300

 

wow bigbad, that is hot.

Look under the silencer thier is an allen head, like the ones that are used for the end cap.
Remove that and the hole silencer core will come out, maybe you can access that bolt easier.
You must use the antiseize on the bolts every time you put them in, or you will snap one taking them out.
Bigbad I hate to get harsh with you but your getting very close to blowing up your machine.
You must get the exhaust installed correctly and no more than six disc.
Now take your time and soke that bolt down with some pennatrating oil the hole time your dealing with the header.
Get some rtv like I said and seal the joints correctly.
Take the hole day or the hole week, just take your time and get it done rite.
This is not hard, you just have to pay atention to the details.
Also call some of your buddies and try to barrow a compression tester.
Don't forget to change the oil, and inspect the oil filter.
If you take your time I assure you that you won't regret it.

Sorry if I sound like your dad, but I am a dad, and once your a dad your always a dad, don't that suck.

 

hay 300cr, were the heck have you been.

I like your idea.
I was intending to put the gaurd back on, but I bought the nuts and was going to have them tached on, but I will try your way sounds graet.
I had to take a powroll exhaust off my sons bike, he just couldn't take it any more.
My intentions were to have his tached as well, but I get home thursday and I'll try it.

So hows the screamen lakota, is it what you expected.
I road mine last thursday and man it runs graet.
I now think when I power wheelie it in second if I hit third I probably can still hold the wheels at high speeds.
I was just scared, alot of torque when you catch another gear and I was on pavement and realy didn't want to eat it.
Not to mention I was putting it away and I had a couple and had no riding gear on.
So have you been keeping up with the skid plate, tires, and handle bar issues we've been talking about.
What do you think, alot of money huh!!!!