I finally tuned the mojave 34mm CVK carb with a clamp on uni filter to the lakota. When I started to get close it got really cool.

With 13/43 gearing it pulled real hard, top speed was some where over 60 mph but we couldn't get a accurate reading, just new it was better than 60. The jetting wasn't very easy but we got it.

To just give a little instants when you come hauling in fourth and hit the braeks to come down to second then try my tightest turn power sliding second, when it hooks up the front end wants to come over your head. Then doing the same in third it lofts the front end about 15 to 20 feet. Going from first to second you can ride wheelies for days, third lofts them well too.


Now in the past I know heat is my enemy. Thru racing I found I can make probably 3 laps before heat sits in and the power faids real bad. It fades so badly that I go from a half a bike length from a raptor in one lap to about 10 to 15 lengths behind. On my first couple laps I can lead them off a hole shot at times or even pass them if they get in front of me. But by the third lap or so the lakota is realy faded some bad.

Now the reason I told you this is while tuning the new carb I kept this totally in the front of my mind. So I beat the dog poop out of it for two hours tuning and messing with clutch adjustments. What I figured but have not proved yet is I am developing to much horse power with my 13/43 gearing for the clutch. Now I've replaced the clutch with a heavier one wich comes with heavier clutch springs. I also descovered how to adjust the lakotas clutch to get maximum bite with it. I see after prolonged beating on the horse power now out last the clutch. So for this reason I'm going back to the 12/43 gearing for a while to see if my theory is rite, by pulling smaller gears it will help me in power and clutch thru the finish of a race.

Stay tuned, I'll test it next week on a SX track and let you all know.

Hands down this carb and filter combination added a huge amount of punch to the ole Lakkota.

 

hey gaff how much was your big bore kit and how long did it take to recieve? i have my engine torn down now and thinking of what to get to boost my power.

 

I just bought the kit from mickey, installed it my self. The kit was like $280, I ordered it on a monday and recieved it by friday. Machine work for resleeving was about $135 if I remember rite.

I ported and pollished the head and did a 3 angle valve job my self.

I deffinately thought it was worth it. The valve job is very important, the added compression is tough to seal at the valves. Nothing a little time and lapping compond won't take care of.

Even with the bore kit the clutch needs much attention. I replaced the friction disc with K&G factory clutches Kevlar disc, added heavier clutch springs as well. Then I took a 60 grit drum sander on a dremmul and cleaned the glazing off the centrifugal clutch drum for better bite.

I have tried different cams wich none seemed to meet my needs or riding style. I finally got something with the mojave carb though.

if anything, atleast shave the head some to boost the compression.

 

Gaff:
Glad to see your still around,have'nt heard from you in a while. Sounds like the Lakota is an on going project. I have not been on mine since the GNCC at Loretta Lynns. I had a problem with my clutch after I raced at last year, The next day when I tried to unload it from the trailer, the clutch was slipping so bad it bearly made it to the garage. I adjusted it and it seems fine, but I am worried that the next time I race and work the pi$$ out of it it's going to start slipping before the race is over.Do you think I fried it?

 

Wouldn't an oil cooler be able to keep the temp down.

 

You might want to check the clearance between the valve and lifter. If this clearance isn't enough when the engine warms up, the valves cannot seat all the way which will cause a loss of compression (power). You mentioned that you did a valve job, so you should of had to take some off of the stem. If you didn't then I would say this is the problem.

 

Oil cooler is an excellent idea, but do to the heavyness of the lakota's I'm trying to work around it. But I see one coming soon.

I'm not sure about the valve clearences. I had the valve job done a year ago and have adjusted them many times. I'll check them again hot next time to see what it looks like.

Inthewnd,
Glad to see you still around.
That clutch can take massive abuse. When the motors hot it can slip badly and then when it's cool it works rite again. I've only seen one clutch fried. Replacing them isn't hard nor exspensive. Just give it a try, if problem keeps up then replace it.

 

If it can keep the 300 cool,I am sure it would be worth its added wieght. I had a bayou 300 a few years ago and although reliable as heck,it sure did not take kindly to extended riding on our hot humids summer days.Later

Oh how I miss the ability to open the differential,so I do not chew the yard up.

 

What is a 3angle valve job??

 

The face of the valve has 3 angles, where the seat has only one really. When you have a 3-angle valve job done you have all 3 angles on the face seat with all 3 angles on the seat. As it is you just realy only have 1 angle of the face and 1 of the seat meating up.

It also helps a good deal on flow as well.