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85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.

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  #11591  
Old 05-09-2012, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by dakbee
converting it to chain drive??
its already chain drive. just the mounting locations are night and day different. getting the front sprocket lined up with the rear is problematic, i ordered a laser used to line up pulleys on street rods. hopefully the thing works. i tried using the chain itself but chain alignment is kinda important and 1 degree left or right off and the chain will eat the engine.

once i get the chain figured out, I can fab up new mounting brackets.
 
  #11592  
Old 05-09-2012, 11:46 AM
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hmmm, i have friend that has 2 ltz250s and both of them are shaft. u must be working with something else

http://www.atv.com/specs/suzuki/spor...-reg/z250.html
 
  #11593  
Old 05-09-2012, 06:54 PM
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Is it a DRZ250 engine?
 
  #11594  
Old 05-09-2012, 07:30 PM
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just going by what the customer told me. it came out of a newer 250cc zuk quad. it's chain drive clutch driven. it has the look of the z400 on the topend. double cams i think. i wasn't paid to open the engine, just mount it. if i could post pics i would but it's the customer's project so he will post them on a site later. I'm just mounting the engine and finding a proper length clutch cable. After that is on him. his project has taken too much of my time and i am already overbudget on the time he paid for.

it's a really tight fit almost to tight. the header had to be cut, pieces added and rewelded to clear the front frame rails. talk about a pain. cutting a power bomb header and getting welded back solid sucked, i am going to hate to see my electric bill this month.

found a pic of the same engine. its from around a 2000 model 250 QS
 
  #11595  
Old 05-18-2012, 04:08 PM
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Rebuilt the engine and was able to start it today. I goofed up the kickstart gear placement (I assume) as I am only getting about 1/2 kick stroke and the kick start does not reset when the engine kicks over (if that makes sense). My guess is I have the gear set incorrectly, rotated too far on the kick start shaft. Does that sound right?

Speaking of sounding right, I was hearing a little more ticking from the engine then I remember, though honestly it has been years since I heard it run. Take a listen to this video and let me know what you think. I was going to just adjust the valve again.

2012-05-18_16-42-45_507 video by overhead2 - Photobucket
 
  #11596  
Old 05-19-2012, 07:26 PM
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i agree with you, there seems to be a ticking sound. Im no expert, but id adjust the the valve and also the tension on the cam chain.

The thing sounds good other than that, what kind of muffler do you have on there? i like it, its not super loud like mine lol
 
  #11597  
Old 05-20-2012, 09:00 PM
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After I shut it down I pulled the timing chain tensioner as I figured that was the easiest check. It was not stuck at all so I just reinstalled it and adjusted it or better, let it self adjust again. I will check the valves soon.

I bought that muffler a very long time ago. I believe it is/was made by Dyncorp or Dynacorp, not sure if they are still in business or not. I am not a fan of overly loud exhaust, even on my Harley. If I upgraded this one I would probably by a Supertrapp, I like torque.
 
  #11598  
Old 05-21-2012, 06:41 AM
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The company name is Dycorp and it appears they are still in business.
 
  #11599  
Old 05-24-2012, 11:04 AM
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The ticking was a result of the intake valve being out of adjustment. How that happened when I just adjusted it before putting the motor back in the frame is beyond me. It could have something to do with beer that was consumed before using a feeler gauge

I am still having issues with the decompression lever/shaft. I cannot see to get it set in the right point to allow the cable/arm to compress the valve while still allowing the valve to close when the lever is released (if that makes sense). Is there some trick to this I am missing?
 
  #11600  
Old 05-25-2012, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by overhead
The ticking was a result of the intake valve being out of adjustment. How that happened when I just adjusted it before putting the motor back in the frame is beyond me. It could have something to do with beer that was consumed before using a feeler gauge

I am still having issues with the decompression lever/shaft. I cannot see to get it set in the right point to allow the cable/arm to compress the valve while still allowing the valve to close when the lever is released (if that makes sense). Is there some trick to this I am missing?
Are you putting the lever in right? The hole for the cable goes toward the front of the engine and the cable pulls it up.
 


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