85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
its already chain drive. just the mounting locations are night and day different. getting the front sprocket lined up with the rear is problematic, i ordered a laser used to line up pulleys on street rods. hopefully the thing works. i tried using the chain itself but chain alignment is kinda important and 1 degree left or right off and the chain will eat the engine.
once i get the chain figured out, I can fab up new mounting brackets.
once i get the chain figured out, I can fab up new mounting brackets.
hmmm, i have friend that has 2 ltz250s and both of them are shaft. u must be working with something else
http://www.atv.com/specs/suzuki/spor...-reg/z250.html
http://www.atv.com/specs/suzuki/spor...-reg/z250.html
just going by what the customer told me. it came out of a newer 250cc zuk quad. it's chain drive clutch driven. it has the look of the z400 on the topend. double cams i think. i wasn't paid to open the engine, just mount it. if i could post pics i would but it's the customer's project so he will post them on a site later. I'm just mounting the engine and finding a proper length clutch cable. After that is on him. his project has taken too much of my time and i am already overbudget on the time he paid for.
it's a really tight fit almost to tight. the header had to be cut, pieces added and rewelded to clear the front frame rails. talk about a pain. cutting a power bomb header and getting welded back solid sucked, i am going to hate to see my electric bill this month.
found a pic of the same engine. its from around a 2000 model 250 QS
it's a really tight fit almost to tight. the header had to be cut, pieces added and rewelded to clear the front frame rails. talk about a pain. cutting a power bomb header and getting welded back solid sucked, i am going to hate to see my electric bill this month.
found a pic of the same engine. its from around a 2000 model 250 QS
Rebuilt the engine and was able to start it today. I goofed up the kickstart gear placement (I assume) as I am only getting about 1/2 kick stroke and the kick start does not reset when the engine kicks over (if that makes sense). My guess is I have the gear set incorrectly, rotated too far on the kick start shaft. Does that sound right?
Speaking of sounding right, I was hearing a little more ticking from the engine then I remember, though honestly it has been years since I heard it run. Take a listen to this video and let me know what you think. I was going to just adjust the valve again.
2012-05-18_16-42-45_507 video by overhead2 - Photobucket
Speaking of sounding right, I was hearing a little more ticking from the engine then I remember, though honestly it has been years since I heard it run. Take a listen to this video and let me know what you think. I was going to just adjust the valve again.
2012-05-18_16-42-45_507 video by overhead2 - Photobucket
After I shut it down I pulled the timing chain tensioner as I figured that was the easiest check. It was not stuck at all so I just reinstalled it and adjusted it or better, let it self adjust again. I will check the valves soon.
I bought that muffler a very long time ago. I believe it is/was made by Dyncorp or Dynacorp, not sure if they are still in business or not. I am not a fan of overly loud exhaust, even on my Harley. If I upgraded this one I would probably by a Supertrapp, I like torque.
I bought that muffler a very long time ago. I believe it is/was made by Dyncorp or Dynacorp, not sure if they are still in business or not. I am not a fan of overly loud exhaust, even on my Harley. If I upgraded this one I would probably by a Supertrapp, I like torque.
The ticking was a result of the intake valve being out of adjustment. How that happened when I just adjusted it before putting the motor back in the frame is beyond me. It could have something to do with beer that was consumed before using a feeler gauge
I am still having issues with the decompression lever/shaft. I cannot see to get it set in the right point to allow the cable/arm to compress the valve while still allowing the valve to close when the lever is released (if that makes sense). Is there some trick to this I am missing?
I am still having issues with the decompression lever/shaft. I cannot see to get it set in the right point to allow the cable/arm to compress the valve while still allowing the valve to close when the lever is released (if that makes sense). Is there some trick to this I am missing?
The ticking was a result of the intake valve being out of adjustment. How that happened when I just adjusted it before putting the motor back in the frame is beyond me. It could have something to do with beer that was consumed before using a feeler gauge
I am still having issues with the decompression lever/shaft. I cannot see to get it set in the right point to allow the cable/arm to compress the valve while still allowing the valve to close when the lever is released (if that makes sense). Is there some trick to this I am missing?
I am still having issues with the decompression lever/shaft. I cannot see to get it set in the right point to allow the cable/arm to compress the valve while still allowing the valve to close when the lever is released (if that makes sense). Is there some trick to this I am missing?