New pics posted, pending approval of course.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

New pics posted, pending approval of course.</end quote></div>

Wow!!! I'm sold on the polyurethane gig! Looks excellent!
Rattlecan? Airless? what?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: MalHombre

gforce, what are you using for a shifter lever?</end quote></div>

MSR generic dirtbike shifter. I saw it behind the service counter at the dealership right after I bought the quad and was thinking to myself why am I fighting with this unnecessarily complicated shifter linkage that doesn't want to stay together. So as I suspected the splines weren't perfectly lining up so I "urged" it on with a rubber mallet and it has worked superbly ever since, and take it off and on without issue.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: PoolGod230

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy



New pics posted, pending approval of course.</end quote></div>



Wow!!! I'm sold on the polyurethane gig! Looks excellent!

Rattlecan? Airless? what?</end quote></div>

I second the wow, that is like night and day from your old pictures. your plastic is shinier than mine and mines about 2 months old [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] Looks really good though.

 

Thanks guys! It was just put on with a sponge brush. I've done some wood pieces before, that's how I got the idea. The pc desk I'm at now was done almost a yr ago and it still looks new. It gets beat all the time with plates, cups, keys, etc. Polyurethane is also used on hardwood floors, so hopefully it will stick to my quad for a while.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

Thanks guys! It was just put on with a sponge brush. I've done some wood pieces before, that's how I got the idea. The pc desk I'm at now was done almost a yr ago and it still looks new. It gets beat all the time with plates, cups, keys, etc. Polyurethane is also used on hardwood floors, so hopefully it will stick to my quad for a while.</end quote></div>

I was gonna ask if a brush was involved, but thought that would be my "red neck" showin..............[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

on another note check out this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...rdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW


Buddy of mine just used these guys, looks and runs great! think he said it came with .40 over piston. rebuilt a 230 he scored for $50 with it.

 

Looks like an oem piston though. No 10:1 compression like wiseco. $220 if you don't have a core that isn't already bored out more than 40 over. I got the wiseco 80 over bore job plus valve work for around $260 I think.

I was gonna say... If anyone is thinking about the polyurethane idea, you can save a lot of time n frustration by hitting me up for pointers. Not saying I'm an expert or anything, but I've screwed up so many times n did a lot of reading n try try again until I got it to look somewhat decent anyway. I'm sure a professional furniture finisher could do a really nice job. The sponge brushes I use are from the dollar store for about 50 cents a pack of 4 assorted sizes. Regular bristle brushes leave brush marks and cost too much since there is no known way to clean the brush. Nothing that I know of will dissolve poly that won't also dissolve the brush. On the can it says to use 220 grit sandpaper, but I used 400 and I can still see sanding marks if I look close. Next time I'm going to use 600. On wood I don't see the 220 sanding marks though, so the can isn't totally full of ****.

The cool thing is when I want to wax my quad, I can just use lemon scented pledge. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

I'm thinking of doing my rims next. I know aluminum doesn't like air much and will turn white if I don't polish it all the time.

 

thats wood clear? im goin to try that too. arnt most aluminum weels coated by clear????

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 270quadsportguy

thats wood clear? im goin to try that too. arnt most aluminum weels coated by clear????</end quote></div>

I used the minwax gloss poly in the silver can. I think they have semi gloss (gold can) and satin too. Cost is about $10 or so for a good size can (quart I think). The rims on my car are coated in something from the factory that is peeling off and looks like **** now. The douglas rims I just got dont appear to be coated in anything, they are already starting to dull.

You are supposed to sand the surface so the poly will stick. The deeper the sanding cuts, the more poly you can put on. Its up to you if you wanna sand on your pretty rims, lol. But after the first coat, you definitely have to sand some with some fine paper. The last coat I would use 600 grit. On the last coat make sure you have a dust free place to work. You will get dust sticking to it like a magnet. Don't overbrush either or you'll get bubbles. Bubbles suck. You can mix a little mineral spirits to thin it out so the bubbles will pop on their own, but the more mineral spirits you add the more runs you might get. So, its a bit of an art. Get a jug of spirits at the dollar store while you getting the brushes. I would put at least 3 or 4 coats on. More if you have deep scratches you need to sand out. Careful not to sand thru the poly though. It takes a good 3 or 4 hrs to dry [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img] that sucks, so allow a couple days at least for a good job. If you sand and corns develop on the sandpaper, its not dry yet. Let me know if you have any problems.

 

use a scotch brite pad on rims. I did my extra plastic in yelllow rustolem used the scratch pad between coats going to try that this week because its got no shine how bout those steelers??? j/k