The 88 also has an 2.5mm crankshaft oil jet while the 87 has a 1.4mm. And the 88 has a 10mm oil pump rotor width, while the 87 has only a 7mm. Everything else is the same according to the suzuki factory service manaul.

Rear shock upper and lower torque is 29-43.5 ft-lbs
Rear swingarm pivot shaft nut is 36-58 ft-lbs

I don't know what else you'd need.... I'm generally around here though so if you get it apart n need something else just give a holla. But the only thing I use a torque wrench on is the head bolts. Everything else I can feel the bolt stretch and stop. Years of wrenching I guess.... Just don't ever overtighten the oil drain plug or the spark plug.... or those little cover bolts. Everytime I get a quad in here to work on for someone, the oil drain takes me 1/2 hr to get the plug out! And I have to beat the heads of all the cover bolts if I need to get them off because they were cranked on so hard. Sometimes more is NOT better, lol.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34
Your engine is a 1988. My number is J411-157856 and up until several months ago I thought my whole quad was a 1986, but someone along the line of ownership kept the original qaud and carb but swapped the engine. One of the easiest ways is to look at your oil filler cap, if it's silver its a 1988. Also there is a transition from parts, like friction disc and and plates for your clutch....in other words if you're engine number is up to and I can't remember the exact transition number but it's in the the 130's so something like 136000 or below you order these parts if it's below then a different set of part numbers. Same with my front sprocket cover I ordered (before I knew my engine was a different year) a 1986 cover and it never fit right.</end quote></div>

black filler cap. but i'm gonna say this quad is an 88 due to the swing arm and engine. i think zuk put there vin # on the right down tube of the frame nearest the rear of the engine, or the bottom tube of the frame on the left side in front of the engine. someone correct me if i'm wrong. looks like i will get some of the paint off the frame to check.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

Yeah, I remember that! [img][/img] How's it coming along then?</end quote></div>

I have the motor done. I put a 250 main jet, 20 pilot, and the JN5L1 needle in the carb as my baseline. Now it's just putting the motor etc back in the quad. Have a dental appointment @ 1030 this morning, should take about 2 hours and hopefully after that I can get the majority of it done before the dealership calls me to come sign the final documents for the truck.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Bruincat

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34

Your engine is a 1988. My number is J411-157856 and up until several months ago I thought my whole quad was a 1986, but someone along the line of ownership kept the original qaud and carb but swapped the engine. One of the easiest ways is to look at your oil filler cap, if it's silver its a 1988. Also there is a transition from parts, like friction disc and and plates for your clutch....in other words if you're engine number is up to and I can't remember the exact transition number but it's in the the 130's so something like 136000 or below you order these parts if it's below then a different set of part numbers. Same with my front sprocket cover I ordered (before I knew my engine was a different year) a 1986 cover and it never fit right.</end quote></div>



black filler cap. but i'm gonna say this quad is an 88 due to the swing arm and engine. i think zuk put there vin # on the right down tube of the frame nearest the rear of the engine, or the bottom tube of the frame on the left side in front of the engine. someone correct me if i'm wrong. looks like i will get some of the paint off the frame to check.</end quote></div>


It's very possible that someone along the line of ownership just stuck an earlier motors filler cap on your engine. Yes the VIN# is where you described it. Aaack sorry didn't read your post closely the VIN number is located on the bottom tub of the frame on the left side in front of the engine.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy



Yeah, I remember that! [IMG][/IMG] How's it coming along then?</end quote></div>



I have the motor done. I put a 250 main jet, 20 pilot, and the JN5L1 needle in the carb as my baseline. Now it's just putting the motor etc back in the quad. Have a dental appointment @ 1030 this morning, should take about 2 hours and hopefully after that I can get the majority of it done before the dealership calls me to come sign the final documents for the truck.</end quote></div>


Sounds plenty rich for your altitude. I don't think you'll be seizing due to being lean. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

The 88 also has an 2.5mm crankshaft oil jet while the 87 has a 1.4mm. And the 88 has a 10mm oil pump rotor width, while the 87 has only a 7mm. Everything else is the same according to the suzuki factory service manaul.



Rear shock upper and lower torque is 29-43.5 ft-lbs

Rear swingarm pivot shaft nut is 36-58 ft-lbs



I don't know what else you'd need.... I'm generally around here though so if you get it apart n need something else just give a holla. But the only thing I use a torque wrench on is the head bolts. Everything else I can feel the bolt stretch and stop. Years of wrenching I guess.... Just don't ever overtighten the oil drain plug or the spark plug.... or those little cover bolts. Everytime I get a quad in here to work on for someone, the oil drain takes me 1/2 hr to get the plug out! And I have to beat the heads of all the cover bolts if I need to get them off because they were cranked on so hard. Sometimes more is NOT better, lol.</end quote></div>

thats a big diff of the low end & high end of toque. should i stay tighter or looser. i think i read 1.5 qt of oil?

i feel your pain about the oil drain plugs. changed oil in many diff vehicles (on road & off), alot of them were for other people. most of them were on too tight.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34



<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy







Yeah, I remember that! [IMG][/IMG] How's it coming along then?</end quote></div>







I have the motor done. I put a 250 main jet, 20 pilot, and the JN5L1 needle in the carb as my baseline. Now it's just putting the motor etc back in the quad. Have a dental appointment @ 1030 this morning, should take about 2 hours and hopefully after that I can get the majority of it done before the dealership calls me to come sign the final documents for the truck.</end quote></div>





Sounds plenty rich for your altitude. I don't think you'll be seizing due to being lean. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif" border="0[/IMG]</end quote></div>

It probably will be pretty rich but I have Main jets from 180 all the way up to 280, so down the road I may end up doing some adjustment but as you know to much blood, sweat, and tears to take any chances.

 

Yes, some of those oil plug I had to grind a hex head back on and use a smaller socket and then jack the socket up onto the bolt using the weight of the quad in order to get it off! There is no sense in it being that tight.

Yes, I thought the same thing about the torque specs. The specs are given in NM and then converted to ft-lbs, so I guess that is where the gap came from. Torque specs are a mute point anyway without a given lubricant too. It doesn't make any sense to say 29ft-lbs without saying what lube to use with it. Also, ARP says you should torque them and loosen them 3 times to seat the threads. Torquing bolts can get pretty technical! That's why I just tighten them until I can feel the bolt stretch a little and stop. I don't want to stretch it to yield or it would be a single use bolt (junk after first torque). Just tighten somewhere before yielding, but after it begins to stretch. Bolts are just really stiff springs. IF you don't have the "feel" for tightening them, I would say set the wrench for 35ft-lbs and 40ft-lbs and it should be good enough. OR oil the cleaned threads and set the wrench for the minimum torque spec. IF the threads are rusty n dirty, set the wrench for the max torque spec.

For an oil change the book says 2.1 US qt
filter change 2.3 US qt
ovehaul is 2.4 US qt

Oil type is 10w/40 API SE or SF (NOT SL!!!!)

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34
It probably will be pretty rich but I have Main jets from 180 all the way up to 280, so down the road I may end up doing some adjustment but as you know to much blood, sweat, and tears to take any chances.</end quote></div>

Yeah, Kustom Kraft did say to go 3 or 4 sizes up to be plenty rich. Have you given any thought to how you're going to break it in?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34

It probably will be pretty rich but I have Main jets from 180 all the way up to 280, so down the road I may end up doing some adjustment but as you know to much blood, sweat, and tears to take any chances.</end quote></div>



Yeah, Kustom Kraft did say to go 3 or 4 sizes up to be plenty rich. Have you given any thought to how you're going to break it in?</end quote></div>

Like I stole it![img]i/expressions/devil.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img]