I am under the school of thought that in order for the rings to properly seal you need to "run it", and by that I mean both excellerate and de-excellerate like I would normally drive it, and change the oil and oil filter often in the first stages.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

Yes, some of those oil plug I had to grind a hex head back on and use a smaller socket and then jack the socket up onto the bolt using the weight of the quad in order to get it off! There is no sense in it being that tight.



Yes, I thought the same thing about the torque specs. The specs are given in NM and then converted to ft-lbs, so I guess that is where the gap came from. Torque specs are a mute point anyway without a given lubricant too. It doesn't make any sense to say 29ft-lbs without saying what lube to use with it. Also, ARP says you should torque them and loosen them 3 times to seat the threads. Torquing bolts can get pretty technical! That's why I just tighten them until I can feel the bolt stretch a little and stop. I don't want to stretch it to yield or it would be a single use bolt (junk after first torque). Just tighten somewhere before yielding, but after it begins to stretch. Bolts are just really stiff springs. IF you don't have the "feel" for tightening them, I would say set the wrench for 35ft-lbs and 40ft-lbs and it should be good enough. OR oil the cleaned threads and set the wrench for the minimum torque spec. IF the threads are rusty n dirty, set the wrench for the max torque spec.



For an oil change the book says 2.1 US qt

filter change 2.3 US qt

ovehaul is 2.4 US qt



Oil type is 10w/40 API SE or SF (NOT SL!!!!)</end quote></div>


i've only stripped out a few threads in my life. usually do the 'by feel' thing, but with 20 year old parts i just want to be sure.

on a side note, it looks like i'm a winner http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=p3984.cTODAY.m238.lVI

 

I am a little concerned w/ the heat issue that you and PG were posting about earlier with the added 30cc's. I'm thinking the suggesting of adding on to the existing fins might help, but would it change the air flow getting to the motor?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Bruincat

i've only stripped out a few threads in my life. usually do the 'by feel' thing, but with 20 year old parts i just want to be sure.



on a side note, it looks like i'm a winner http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=p3984.cTODAY.m238.lVI</end quote></div>

I don't think the age of the bolts matters as long as they are not corroded. Those should have a 25% factor of safety anyway (ie 25% more than they need to be).

Good job on the feedback! 100% [img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img]

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34

I am a little concerned w/ the heat issue that you and PG were posting about earlier with the added 30cc's. I'm thinking the suggesting of adding on to the existing fins might help, but would it change the air flow getting to the motor?</end quote></div>

I don't think it would change air flow really. I know from welding the more metal you have the harder it is to heat it up and weld it. Even steel will suck up the heat like crazy if its thick enough.

We just need a bigger heat sink. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: gforce34

I am under the school of thought that in order for the rings to properly seal you need to "run it", and by that I mean both excellerate and de-excellerate like I would normally drive it, and change the oil and oil filter often in the first stages.</end quote></div>

I emailed motoman about the breaking thing.... I wanted to know if I should pull the clutch when I decellerate or just let the engine slow it down. Basically, from what he has said, the rings only press against the walls when the explosion happens. Any other time the rings are just going up n down. So, I wanted him to come out and say one way or the other about that, but haven't heard anything yet. Its been a couple months at least.

To me, it seems the best way would be to keep the engine under load at all times. ie, slow it down under hard throttle and even harder braking.

 

I think the best way to break it in would be to 1) park a truck in a parking lot. 2) dump oil on the pavement. 3) position front of quad against truck 4) fry the back tires off the quad for about 10 min. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

That should keep it under max load continuously! It simulates a dyno machine.

 

Lol I guess you could do that but no air flow over the motor for even 10 minutes seems counter productive to the break-in process. I think de excelleration w/o braking makes more sense since you want to keep maxium compression if possible at all times when breaking in the motor.

 

Decelleration means the throttle is closed and the piston moving down makes for a vacuum rather than pressure to push the rings against the wall. I think when motoman is breaking an engine in on a dyno, he doesn't decellerate..... The dyno just stops when he is done. The whole process is under load and when there is no load, it is stopped.

Add a fan in front of the quad then, lol.

 

Those of you that have no idea what we're talking about http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm