Ahhh.... here we go.... "NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs." http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

So, keeping it under load 100% is the best way to force the rings against the wall, but we don't want to do that 100% of the time. So, we have to let off to clean the shaved metal off the walls before they gum up in the rings.

"Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process." http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Makes sense. Let the vacuum from deceleration suck as much shaved metal as possible out the exhaust. I have a big open field behind my house so I will be putting this theory to the test.

 

I put a set of oversize rings in a wolverine not that long ago. I accellerated hard and decellerated hard right off the bat. Then I let a buddy ride it and he did the same thing and I noticed all the smoke coming out the pipe while he was riding. At the time I was not sure I broke it in right because it was smoking. I don't know if it ever stopped smoking or not... The guy came n got it and I haven't heard anything since.

That engine had other issues anyway and he was glad that it runs at all. It was smoking like a tar wagon when it arrived here and had a loud knocking. When it left it was only smoking a little. You could barely tell. And had no more knocking.

 

Ouch, was his rod bearing worn? Sounds like the knocking could have been piston slap. Well unfortunately got to get going for the dentist to ruin my day.

 

His rod bearings were bad, piston was slapping around,,,, but the cause of the noise was a loose timing chain from soneone not resetting the tensioner when they put it back on. Its the rachet type that goes all the way out when you take it off the engine. They didn't collapse it when they put it back resulting in a super-tight chain. The chain stretched, the chain guides broke, and the tensioner broke. I had to weld a nut to the end of the tensioner to tighten the loose chain enough not to slap. He wanted the cheapest way out. It worked, but who knows how long or the other long term risks with that kind of repair.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Pierced



Alright so I pulled the magneto cover off again to check and see if there was any adjustment to it, and got it to move down a little. I put it all back together and it started up and ran great for an hour or so. I was sitting there in neutral with it idling it died and wont start again. Now I was doing some searching around on the forum and found a post that said there wasent supposed to be oil in that side of the case, is that correct? Could the oil in that side of the case be effecting my spark?







If that is the case what is it going to entail to repair this?</end quote></div>



There IS supposed to be oil in that side of the case.



Although I'm not an expert in physics, I've had a few classes and have a fair understanding of how a magneto works. That being said, I don't think it really matters where the magneto is positioned so long as the magnet (aka flywheel) turns around it. A couple mm is not going to make a difference. All that is required is that the magnet move by the coil to make charged particles flow (aka current).



Its starting to sound like the problems begin when things heat up. If that is true, I will start suspecting coils to be the problem. What I would do is hook an ohmmeter to the magneto coil when you cannot get a spark and take a reading. IF the reading is infinite or zero, there is the problem. The reading should be 150-350 ohms. The pick up coil should have 100-200 ohms and the lighting coil should have 0-2 ohms.



If you are certain the flywheel is touching the magneto, then your crankshaft is probably bent. The cranks on these engines are relatively small. If you jump and land on concrete or something equally hard and give it gas at the same time, there is a possibility you can bend the crank. It depends if the piston is at the power stroke the same time the shock wave travels up the drive line and if the 2 shockwaves meet at the crank, it will bend fairly easy.</end quote></div>


IDK if this was the right way but i stuck my tester on the bottom metal piece of the pick up and then touched one of the mounting screws and was reading around 400 ohms.

Alright I checked it out with a tester today, I am getting around 275 for coil, 2 for the lighting coil. I put it back to gether and once it again it started right up and ran great then eventually quit again. so I tore it down real quick and was getting the same numbers.

is there a way to test the CDI box and the coil thats under the hood?

Another thing I am beginning to wonder is if I might have a short somewhere. This looks like all the stock wiring which would make it 20+ years old. So I am thinking of maybe re doing the wiring harness on it once I get a repair manual with some diagrams in it.

 

well randy i had nothing but trouble trying to get the damn valve springs on. i bought a valve spring compressor but it was too bulky to fit in the head, so i brought that right back. then i asled my dealer what they would charger to do it, they said it was an 1-1.5 hour job. i thought that was pretty funny. i tried your method too, but i couldnt get it. me and my dad will get it done tomorrow, he has a way of doing it. ill keep y'all updated with how the rebuild goes.

oh and to stay on the topic of btreak ins, im gonna shoot for the ride it like i stole it method. run it WOT up and down my street and hope the cops dont show up before i can finish the break in lol!

 

The pick up coils wires are Bl/Y - G/W
The Power Source is Br - P
The Lighting is O - B

Test everything from under the tank, not tearing the cover off each time. All the wires come apart under the tank. I think some coil somewhere is heating up and losing connection or shorting.

The Ignition coil is:
Primary is "+" - "-" 0-2 ohms
Secondary is "Plug Cap" - "+" 10-25,000 ohms

No known way to test the CDI.

Have you changed the spark plug? Never know.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: quadsport230

well randy i had nothing but trouble trying to get the damn valve springs on. i bought a valve spring compressor but it was too bulky to fit in the head, so i brought that right back. then i asled my dealer what they would charger to do it, they said it was an 1-1.5 hour job. i thought that was pretty funny. i tried your method too, but i couldnt get it. me and my dad will get it done tomorrow, he has a way of doing it. ill keep y'all updated with how the rebuild goes.



oh and to stay on the topic of btreak ins, im gonna shoot for the ride it like i stole it method. run it WOT up and down my street and hope the cops dont show up before i can finish the break in lol!</end quote></div>

I've always had good luck with the c-clamp method. I have valve spring compressors and they don't work on these small engines. 1-1.5 hrs is a joke, lol.

I think no matter how you break it in, everybody agrees to run it hard somewhere in the process.... Some sooner than others.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

The pick up coils wires are Bl/Y - G/W

The Power Source is Br - P

The Lighting is O - B



Test everything from under the tank, not tearing the cover off each time. All the wires come apart under the tank. I think some coil somewhere is heating up and losing connection or shorting.



The Ignition coil is:

Primary is "+" - "-" 0-2 ohms

Secondary is "Plug Cap" - "+" 10-25,000 ohms



No known way to test the CDI.



Have you changed the spark plug? Never know.</end quote></div>


I have tried 2 different new plugs still no change.

I will test that stuff tomorrow and report back.

Your help is greatly appreciated. [img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img]