What oil are you talking about? And when you say it won't come out, are you talking about it won't come out of the weld?

Yes the bearing carrier, it broke like it was cast. At least the two I have in my posession. The one on my wheeler had one of the caliper ears break off. I temporarily fixed it with some JB Weld and a splint on one side and it has held up ok. But I picked up a carrier and extra swing arm off ebay a while back for $30. the new one had a little chip out of the edge where the seal goes. It does not seem to affect anything, but I filled that as well after the new seal was in.

 

I don't know, but I was told that oil and grease and whatever sinks into the metal and you can't clean it no matter what and that contaminates the weld. I don't know how big of a deal it is, maybe some guys were just being **** online, I don't know. One guy that posted some nice tig welds of pop cans welded together and razor blades said the sand from the sand casting can contaminate the weld, but he can weld any Jap side cover with no trouble. They also stressed to make sure the casting is infact aluminum and not magnesium. You don't want to weld magnesium. It will burn like gunpowder and I guess water doesn't put it out.

Any automotive machine shop should be able to weld aluminum. I don't really know the first thing about it except I can't do it with the equipment I have. These guy should be able to help you out: http://www.machinebuilders.net...forum_topics.asp?FID=8

Personally, I'd give durafix a shot. When PG comes back around, he may have a few comments about durafix.

 

Soundsl like they are being **** to me. If something is broke, it is worth taking a chance on welding it rather than throwing hands in the air and saying "op to bad, it has oil on it so i won't weld it." I hope that did not make me sound liek a jerk [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

The pop can thing is one of the ways my welding instructor would have the TIG guys pass the class.

 

Yeah, you can imagine how I felt then knowing I used the welder to burn off paint, rust, etc and still get a decent weld that holds up without cracking. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Those guys like to pat each other on the back for being perfect I think. I'm not perfect, but good enough to get the job done.

But some guys won't do **** work either. I will, coz I don't have a rep to uphold, but a friend of mine's dad used to be a highly respected car painter. He did a cheap job once. It bit him in the *** so he said never again. He'll either do the best work he can or not at all because his name will be riding on that job! So, maybe that's why some guys wouldn't want to put their name on a weld that might crack because it had a bit of oil in the metal. I don't know. I'd weld it though and say "no guarantees, but there it is." I have a feeling many guys would. If you have the equipment and knowhow, try it and see. Me, I'd be a bit concerned about warpage since bearings will be going in it. Welding an ear on is no big deal though. But if I had a big crack right in the middle, I'd heat the whole piece up and put that durafix on it and let it all cool as one piece so there would be no warpage. Arc welding is too hot and will always warp it some.

 

I will let you know what the outcome is. It probably won't be until late next week at the earliest if my friend can do it. Oh crap the holidays are coming, make that after the first fo the year.

I wish I could get into the new house so that I could tear the LT down over the winter and early spring.

If I wanted to rebuild the motor top to bottom, with head work, what do you think t would cost me? I am pretty confident in my mechanic skills to do it all myself, So for all the parts?

 

Crankwork? New bearings and seals in all cases too? OR just the bore job and new piston? Or big bore kit?

Its usually around $250 for a bore job with piston (unless you can bore it yourself too [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] ).

New valves are about $20-$30 each (probably only need the intake). New bearings are around the same price. Seals are a couple bucks each. New rod on crank is about $120. Big bore kit is $350. Gasket kit is about $20-$30 (make sure it has valve seals - not all kits do). Timing chain is about the same price. What else???? Cam? $300 by the time you get rockers n crap. What about magneto coils? $40 and $60 for those. Flywheel puller tool is about $20-$30. Cltuch kit? maybe the same price, not sure.

 

I will not do any boring my self, but if I am tearing it down, why not do a big bore kit of some kind? I guess that is how it all starts. I want a reliable fun second bike. I can't get what i want for it if I sell it, so I might as well keep it and have fun with it.

I was going to do a cam and valve springs with new intake valve, and lap them in.

I will have to do something for the clutch, right now it does not disengauage all the way and I do not know why.

I am going to figure a new rod, but won't know until I get in there, it is not making abnormal noise just some ticking from the valves/rockers.

Can I put a new rod on the crank myself?

 

You need special equipment to change rods (big huge press and lots of experience). $120 isn't bad for a new rod and labor.

You'll have to send the jug off to kustom kraft and wait a month for a big bore kit (that's how long it took for me).

OR you could just track down a decent 250 engine. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Have you priced work from "Four-Stroke Tech" ? They offer the 265 kit. What did Kustom Kraft charge and what did they give you?

I think I would prefer to keep the 230 motor.

 

I called 4 or 5 places. I can't remember who said what, but Kustom Kraft was the way to go when I called. The rest really didn't seem to give a **** about such a small, old quad anymore. Some even feed me bs that wasn't true. Gforce, me, and PG (I think) all went with KK. $350 is what I remember, but I got the next size piston too which is the 265 kit, so my bill was $500. They have 260, 265, and 270. The 270 is for the 250 engine and has the piston with a 17mm pin.

You send in the jug and they sand blast it, put a new sleeve in, bore the sleeve to the right size and send it back to you with a new piston, rings, pin, and head gasket. I got the 260 kit because I can go to the 265 piston once I wear it out. Once the 265 is done, you're done. There is no more oversize unless you special order a piston from somewhere. When I ordered mine, he had 13 pistons left. Once those are gone, they're gone. Wiseco doesn't make them anymore. That's why I grabbed an extra piston.