lmfao! im such an idiot. i was thinking "has this guy come up with some kind of neuron supercharging enhancement device?" my mind for some reason always goes for the most complex and unlikely answer.

so to keep my bottom end, i should keep my stock carb? should i rejet it for more power? id like to get some more power but not sacrifice too much. so now im thinking, 250 cam, air filter, and maybe rejetting.

 

Well it is supposed to look like dual exhausts

If you want more bottom end, consider going with a smaller carb! Smaller carbs increase flow velocity at lower rpms, and since moving gases like to stay moving (inertia), you get more mix in the cylinder. The quadsport is a sport and came with a fairly large carb for fairly high rpms. I'm sure it would due quite well with a 24mm carb, just like the 220 bayou does. And you should see the tiny little thing on the 250ex! I dont know what size it is, but it is SMALL! A 220 bayou carb should be cheap and easy to find on ebay. I know it would work because I have a 230 carb on my bayou, so a bayou carb should fit a 230.

One thing that is neat about the raptor is it has 2 carbs and 1 piston. 2 smaller carbs is better than 1 big one. It also has 2 exhaust headers.

You cant rejet for more power. You only need to rejet when you change something that affects the vacuum seen at the carb. For instance you remove the airbox lid. Suddenly there is less vacuum infront of the carb because there is less restriction behind the carb. So you need a bigger hole for gas to come out of (due to less vacuum) to get the right mixture for combustion.

 

ive been to both ends on a bayou carb. i got my 220 from a cycle shop that got it in for scrap. the previous owners let the drive shaft work loose and it literally beat a hole in its drive shaft tube. rebuilt all that and then we had to find a carb for it. found and made one from 3 junkers. the engine runs great, for the most part. has no HP when the revs get up. still dont know whats wrong, im thinking a broken valve spring.

as you can see, im not too versed on mixtures and such. im learning that one as i go. so jetting isnt needed unless it gets more air because of less restriction. that being said, how much less restriction would grant rejetting? a uni 2 stage? a high flow K&N like you have?

 

Oh man... the bayou... I have a sneaking suspicion your cam and rockers are ground down. Is the engine making a rattling noise? Is it hard to adjust the valves? And no topend power. A buddy brought his bayou over last week with a rattling noise. I tried adjusting valves, but notice something strange.... 1) the adjuster was way down in the rocker arm. 2) I'd turn the adjuster a small amount to go from insanely loose to too tight. Didn't make sense. I'm thinking "How is this possible?" So I get it fairly tight and take it for a ride and there is just no topend power at all. Now I'm thinking "This cam has no duration... I wonder if its ground down". Popped the cam out and there was almost no lobe left!

So.... got on ebay and found a head with cam and rockers for $55. I thought that was a great deal considering $200 for new stuff. Head arrived and I looked inside and it looked ok. But when I finally got around to taking it apart (last night), the cam was ground a bit on the intake lobe and the rockers were toast! Now I'm thinking there is a serious issue with these engines not getting oil to the top. So I remember when I first got my bayou and I was reading in the kawi section here.... A guy named Hyashi was talking about the oil pump gear being plastic, getting hot and melting or breaking. Luckily there is a good supply of oil pumps on ebay for less than $20 (hard to believe for a $150 part). I found one for $5!

But now I see why its so hard to find a cam AND rockers on ebay. I've seen heads with cam, but no rockers. Or just cams. The rockers must be soft and people replace those first. A new cam is only $80 and most on ebay want $50 at least. The rockers are $30 new, but I haven't been able to find any rockers on ebay except what I bought, which is junk.

My driveshaft had problems too, so did my friends. There is an issue there too with water getting inside and rusting the bearing. I just fixed this one last week.

A uni filter is just a foam filter and isnt going to flow any better than any other foam filter. KN is paper and will flow better, so you might need to rejet. A KN and taking the airbox lid off, yes you WILL need to rejet. But I've never seen any machine with a KN that didn't also have intake valve issues (except my 250 with the bigass KN). I don't think KNs filter the air too well. Or they get damaged easy and let dirt in. The KNs for the 230 are just too small. They clog easy and require lots of cleaning, which leads to damage, which leads to damaged intake valve. I don't think you can beat foam for filtering air.

 

there is a carb on ebay that i considered getting but there doesn't seem to be any info on it. here is the link.

Keihin Carb Carburetor 27 PD LT230S LT250S LT230 230S - eBay (item 220601470625 end time Jan-01-11 14:01:18 PST)



is this a good carb?

 

Its a DG so its probably good. Its a 27mm, so not that much bigger. Its a roundslide just like stock. Its Keihin (honda stuff)... suzuki and kawi is mikuni and parts wont interchange. I like to stay with mikuni so I have a selection of parts. And for the price? Too much. Its probably not jetted right either so plan on buying jets.

 

dear lord dont say that. i might have to rebuild the entire top end? i didnt even think of that. the valves did seem a bit sensitive. it pulls great at low end but when you get it to WOT it has NOTHING. that does make since now that i think about it. my dad and i have checked everything. from the coil to the carb to the stator. when i get my QS running again, i guess well pull the head and check it out. this sounds like a $200 fix to me.

so a uni 2 stage or a big kn off a auto would be best. the uni 2 stage wouldnt need rejetting but a bigger kn would. that being said, is it worth the money to get a uni 2 stage and put the 250 cam in it? will i be able to have a noticeable increase?

 

yes the 250s cam will make a difference on the top and bottom end power. plus you dont need to buy expensive valves and springs. you cal use OEM valves and springs with no worries. you may also notice a slight increase in fuel useage. the UNI 2 stage is all around better, no rejetting needed and it needs cleaned less often.

 

i may put may 230 up for sale, or part it out. dont know for sure. i found a 250s sitting close to me for a great price. and its nice looking, no leaks and not rusted up.

 

All you have to do is put engine near TDC, pull the adjuster screws out of the rocker arms so the arms are loose, take necessary screws out and pull the cam out of the side. You dont even have to take the plastic off. Then you can see the cam and go from there. You'll need an impact screwdriver tool to get the philips head screws out that hold the cam in. Its kinda hard to pull the cam out, but with a little tuggin back n forth it comes out.

Heres my 2:









The reason I got the big KN is so I would NEVER have to clean it. Probably the BEST thing to do is get a giant foam filter. You'll get the protection of foam and enough surface area that restriction is minimum.

The difference in the 230s and 250s cam is that I can do a donut... around n around... at a certain rpm in 2nd or 3rd gear with the 230s cam. With the 250s cam I can do the same thing with a few more rpm... maybe 100? 200? 500 rpm more??? I don't know, but its a difference that I can feel, but not huge. And the only reason I can tell is I compared the cams on the same day. I did donuts with the 230 cam and pulled in the garage, swapped cams and went right back out. Also did the LT4WD cam. It sucked lol

So I concluded that the 250 cam ups midrange and topend. No idea about lowend without a tractor-pull test of some sort.



Thats the 3 cams... see if you can guess which is the 250 cam lol