I haven't taken it out and opened it up yet. Just puttin' around the driveway I definately got my low end back after installing the stage II cam. I'm looking forward to the dunes this July to really open it up!

 

I am very sorry if I offended you or anyone else. I genuinely did not understand why.
You asked for thoughts on break in and those were mine.
Can I give you a few others thoughts; if you do not care to read them, stop here?
I am the poster child for “hard break in” if you looked at my Internet site you will understand. Basically it is start the engines back them out of the shop, drive them on the hauler and go race!
I have never built an ATV engine and it has been a long time since I have built a motorcycle engine. In the last 25 years I have build 150 to 200 V8 and Allison aircraft engines.
A lot of the rings do not need to be “seated” the way they use to be, per the ring-manufacturing engineers I have spoken to. They are manufactured such that it is not necessary. I am sure there are some that still need to be I just have not spoken to them.
The Internet site that was mentioned talked about break in is not needed because of the manufacturing tolerances we now have that were not previously available and what break in that is done should be done hard. That is true we have better manufacturing tolerances, BUT in a performance motor or a motor not built on a assembly line it matters who assembled the motor and the tolerances they used. On my super charged alcohol performance motors we use bearing clearances of .004 to .0065, which is way to great for an automobile engine and the owner, would not like the noise, The same for the piston clearance and ring gap. So depending on how tight the tolerances are, or possibly how tight the ring end gap is then that would have an effect on how long before they are properly clearanced. Possibly a tight end gap clearance was used so that after break in the end gap then would be at minimum giving the best performance over the longest period of time and when the engine is new it would be too tight to run hard, creating a lot of heat and expanding the ring to its maximum diameter and forcing the ring ends together ruining the ring which would also wear them out prematurely.
My personal thoughts on not running a new engine hard is there are various pieces of metal moving around and suspended in the oil that I do not want driven into the bearings. Many oil filters have a by-pass in them so the cold oil is not filtered and goes directly to the bearings. Rings not needing to be seated, and the rough cylinder walls what my thought is would be that driving the rings into the walls hard would help to wear out the rings sooner while the cylinder walls are waiting to have the metal particles cleaned off.

So back to my original post, I would ALWAYS do what the engine manufacturer or assembler says for the best performance and longevity.