Wow, your graph is up already.
I have never seen a pic go up so fast!

Dang Randy! you are more high tech than this little machine we are playing with![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

Oh and I apologize in advance for any posts tomorrow. I have the day off, so I'll probably be slinging stupid questions... Me and the 230 all day.. Sorry guys.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: PoolGod230

Another reason I love this forum, you all have and continue to help this moron (ME) with my fumbling.</end quote></div>


If yer not careful, you'll wind up becoming an expert! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I think the moderators watch the new messages (like this one, lol) and they get an email about new pics,,, he/she might have seen my post first.

Sling all the Q's you want, that's how we learn. I have a bunch myself, lol.

The more I study this little machine, the more impressed I am with the engineering. They really knew a lot (or got lucky) about engine design befor CAD really came along back in the early 80's.

 

Alright here goes with the stuff i dont get.........

Old piston 2 3/4 in across

Webcams stage 2 per instructions.Fits LT250S by the way made for QS's

Grind #213

Intake Exaust
Valve lash: .004 .004
Valve lift: .360 .360
Duration: 278degrees 278degrees
Duration@.050 250degrees 250degrees
Lobe Center 103degrees 107degrees

Intake opens 22degrees before TDC Exaust opens 52degrees before BDC
Intake closes 48degrees after BDC Exaust closes 18degrees after TDC

Valve timing is checked with ZERO valve lash @.050 inches of valve lift.

For proper break-in, after installation of a new camshaft, do not allow your engine to idle below 2000 RPM for the first 15 minutes of use.


Jeez!!! I hope to God this makes sense to you Randy, makes my head hurt!

Does this thing idle above 2k RPM I hope????????

 

how can i get the valve springs off without a valve spring compressor?

 

You are on your own there lil buddy.... That part of the engine scares me....based on what I have read here, special tools and such.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: quadsport230

how can i get the valve springs off without a valve spring compressor?</end quote></div>

get a piece of tube an inch or 2 long and file/grinder a slot in each side. The tube should be about the same size as the springs. Now get a c-clamp and use the tube and the clamp to squish down the spring and use a small screw driver to get the little retains out thru the little slots you made. I have a valve spring compressor, but sometimes there is not enough room to mount it up. So, I have to use the c-clamp idea.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: PoolGod230

Alright here goes with the stuff i dont get.........

Old piston 2 3/4 in across

Does this thing idle above 2k RPM I hope????????</end quote></div>


2.75 = 70mm. That's about 100 over. I think 80 is as high as it goes. 80 over would be a 68mm (2.677 inches) piston. If the quad was 80 over high compression,,,, cam or not it will feel a lot more powerful than stock, lol.

I dont think it idles at 2k. The book should say, but I dont have one.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

I'd be willing to bet any a-arms you find that are longer than the stock 230 ones will have longer bearings and won't fit into the frame. The 250 arms are longer and also wont fit in the frame, but you could file the ends down and make them go. Other than the bearings being longer, everything else lines up. As far as a 300, its a long-shot gamble. I suppose even if the 300 arms are too wide for the frame, you could use a press and squish them until they line up. And then file down the bearings. You might have to use the 300 hubs and spindle though, the balljoints might not work in the 230 spindle. Then I guess you'd need the 300 rims too.



Now you have to ask yourself, are the 300 arms long enough for all this work, lol. Maybe get some 450 arms [img][/img]



Btw, I ended up ordering some 3+6 aluminum rims for the back. That should get me up to 45 inches in the back and maybe shed some of the weight from the steel rims.</end quote></div>

Yeah was thinking outloud without any real digging. I will start looking into this much more in detail and with facts (meaning going out and measuring and comparing etc.) I'm hoping this isn't going to be like our swingarm and nothing other than another 230's will bolt up.

 

I called webcams yesterday n got all the specs for stage 1 and 2 and stock. The problem with stage 2 is my software shows it loses power. I'll post another graph n show you. I called back in an effort to get everything straightened out n she basically said they've tried all kinds of software n some work n some don't and they don't use software, just experince to pick their grinds. They win a lot of races and big name people buy their stuff, so I don't know if my software is modeling the cam correctly. That's why I need some feedback from people that have actually bolted the cam in. My guess is that the software is not factoring in enough flow in the intake and/or the exhaust to take advantage of the stage 2 cam, or else stage 2 is a dud. Either way, I think I want to steer away from stage 2 (anybody's stage 2 - not just webcams) because I'll lose too much lowend,,, even if I did gain a bit of top.