You might could, but you probably better not. You should put the heim joints back in.

 

Yup, it was for you. Those spherical bearings are called heim joints.

"A rod end bearing, also known as a heim joint (N. America) or rose joint (U.K. and elsewhere), is a mechanical articulating http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joint. Such joints are used on the ends of control rods, http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Steering_link&action=edit&redlink=1, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tie_rod, or anywhere a precision articulating joint is required. A ball http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swivel with an opening through which a bolt or other attaching hardware may pass is pressed into a circular casing with a threaded shaft attached." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rod_end_bearing

Sometimes, instead of welding the heim joint on the a-arm, they are threaded-on to allow for the adjustment of wheel camber.

 

JustRandy,
Thanks. I had just finished posting my reply when a co-worker of mine gave me a teaching moment on the proper nomenclature for those. I deleted my reply but you must have read it before. So it's not a good idea to go to a needle bearing at the pivots of the a-arms? I was reasoning that since the manufacturer went to them I could do the same.

 

I think they wont fit if I remember correctly. The spherical bearings could last 30 plus years if you grease them. The needle bearings, you might get 5-10 if you grease them and you are lucky. I had spherical bearings in my old a arms and they lasted 25 years before I sold them to get lt250s a arms.

 

I have to agree with Tom. You could machine the openings large enough to accept the needle bearings, but any grain of grit that gets inside will destroy the bearings whereas the heims are sealed really tight. Another thing to consider is the ends of the arms aren't parallel with each other or the frame. So in addition to boring the ends, you'd have to straighten the ends. Needle bearings only work when everything is perfectly true and square and clean.

Who knows why they went from heims to needles, but they also went from eccentric-cam chain adjusting bearing carrier to the bolts that never seem to work quite right. Maybe it was to save a few pennies.

Heim joints are really cool. I used to have them on my truck, back when I had a truck that needed them. Genuine Bullet Proof Rod End Specifications

 

Thanks for the in depth information. I'll just replace the heim joints that are fowled up. Any suggestions on how to lube them in the future?

 

I haven't done any in-depth research into the best method, but I kinda like that grease with the blue or red color. Try to pack it in and seal it off with the seal. That should keep water out and prevent rust for a long time. I might even oil the hiems first with 30w oil, then pack with grease, then the seal. The oil will penetrate into the bearing. The grease is really just a seal against water.

 

I like green grease. Water resistant and synthetic. Its like 8 bucks for 14oz. Probably the most expensive stuff you can buy

 

Where do you get the green? Last time I was at walmart looking at grease, I couldn't tell the color without breaking the seal.

According to Bob, the oil guy, aluminum black is the way to go. Why does grease turn a milky looking color

I think the black I've had experience with was moly or something and I didn't care much for it. Seems like the red or blue stays where I put it and isn't as messy as the black.

I think we can all agree to stay away from this stuff:

 

Walmart doesnt sell it. Only one store that I know of sells it and I believe thats autozone.