No, I didn't quite think of that, but a few weeks ago when helping my buddy decide what to do with his warrior we came to the conclusion that most guys were shortening the intake runner. Although, he didn't have much of a choice since mikuni only made one aftermarket flange that would fit his engine and carb.... and that flange is only about 1/2 inch long! (The stock warrior one is a couple inches at least).

Now that you guys bring it up, there is certainly an optimal solution. I just don't know how to go about finding it. One problem I have is getting that flex pipe to bend around the frame and connect the carb to the filter. If I made the runner longer, it would be that much harder to make the bend. Unless I angle the carb out more...

I'll definitely keep it in mind and if I can think of anyway to try to it I will. Let me know if you think of anything that would be easy to implement and I'll give it a go.

 

Well, I'm up to .0935 on the main jet. Still doesn't take full throttle, but will rev out to at least 7 or 8k. It hauls! The handlebars jumped out of my hands on one occassion! Now I'm having the problem of keeping enough gas in the bowl. I had to remove the inline filter because I keep sucking the bowl dry!

The dial-a-jet is making a big difference too. I called tech support for the dial-a-jet and asked if it would work in my situation because I put the quad in top gear and let out the clutch with the brakes on and didn't see any gas going up the line. He said gas isn't supposed to go up the line.... The line is something like .125 inches and the hole in the jet is only .040... There is no way the gas could go up the line, it "sheets" up the sides of the line. And he said it would work in my case, just not as well as if I had an airbox. He also said I should add some air restriction to my filter. I was like "Huh?" He said guys think the engineers missed something by making airboxes and by removing all restriction you'd get more power. So, I said, "what about forced induction?" He said forced induction is a good thing but they not only force air into the engine, they also force air into the float bowl or have some other way of injecting gas. "Oh, ok, didn't know that... Well, I'd rather find more ways to introduce gas than restricting air." So, he said I could remove the tube from the dial-a-jet and drill the .040 hole to .055 and that would give me more gas. He said its easy to make peak HP, any guy can do that, but to make a nice broad powerband is hard. I told him about how guys used to remove the airbox from those old 750-4 hondas and just run velocity stacks (with no filter at all) and drill the main out the .125 and have all sorts of power. He just pointed out the peak HP thing again.

So, I ran this rendition by my buddy with the warrior yesterday and he's like "The guy should come ride my warrior then. I get that all the time that it can't be done, but I'm doing it!" He said when he's done he'll post the right jetting and everything online and if anyone beleves him fine, if they don't then to hell with them. Because we have too many "experts" that are saying there's no way to get a good running quad that will also pop a wheelie without some way of injecting fuel (ie. having a restrictive airbox to provide suction on the jets or an accelerator pump or very small carb or something maybe like a dial-a-jet). So, yesterday he came by with a new needle and went blasting around the yard popping wheelies and revving out. He seems to be doing it! The only problem now is the off-idle jetting. It stumbles and is pretty rich as soon as you touch the throttle,,,, but open it up and you better hang on! That warrior has some serious pull! The pull just ends too early in my opinion. My Qsport doesn't pull as hard, but it seems to pull longer.

Oh well, back to work.... I'm burning daylight... I'll post more later.

 

Ill be thinking of ways to lengthen the intake runner, but idn how far ill get with that. About what the dial-a-jet tech is saying, I dont quite see where hes coming from, I believe if your buddy with the Warrior is doing it, then he knows what hes talking about, but good luck with the jetting.

Edit: I have my motor apart, so its jus the crankcase, but it sounds like theres something loose cuz i can hear something inside of it. It ran fine and im pretty sure i didnt make it loose and disconnect by doing anything. I do not have the special tool to remove the clutch center, and separating the crankcase may be difficult. Is this sound normal or do i have to purchase special tools and do some investigating?

 

Well, the tech is saying you can run all the air thru the carb you want, but if there's no restriction behind the carb, you won't suck much gas out.

Loose? What do you mean?

Its not that hard to separate the cases, its just hard to get the flywheel off.... and I had all kinds of problem with 3 philips head screws when I split my cases a few months ago.

 

Ok I see what hes saying. As far as my crankcase, it sounds like something inside of it either came off and is freely moving inside, or I dropped something in there from where the cylinder mates with the crankcase??? I hope not, I had it covered. But anyway, wouldnt I need a puller to get the flywheel off in order to split the case?

 

Do you mean something rattle around when you pick up the engine and shake it? Or that when you spin the crank something sounds loose? Not the cam chain is it?

Yes, you'll need a special puller that costs $20-$30 to pull the flywheel. I can find the part number if you want it. It would probably be a good idea to put a new rod on the crank anyway, if you don't mind splitting the cases. $130 for a new rod. The rod is a weak link on 230 engines.

 

Oh, yes when I pick up the engine and shake it, and a part number would be good. I thought about getting a new rod, but I havent decided yet.

 

I looked at my order history on bikebandit... This is the puller I got: http://www.bikebandit.com/product/9316 I know it doesn't say quadsport or anything, but that's the right one. It took a long time to figure that out.

I can't really see how you wouldn't need a new rod. If your rod will rock side to side (not slide side to side... sliding is ok, rocking is not), you need a new one. If your wrist pin will rock or move in the rod indicating the small end is egg shaped, you'll need a new one. If you bore the cylinder and install a new piston on a crappy rod, the piston will flop around and wear the cylinder out fast. I only got about 9 months of riding before I was burning oil again. And I really didn't ride that often.

You also want to be careful that this doesn't happen to you:

 

Oh, if there is something loose in the engine, you better get it out. It can get caught in the cam chain and cause all sorts of problems. You should pull off the magneto cover and shine flashlights up there and try to shake it out if nothing else.

 

Yea, maybe I should get a new rod, cause I dont want it to be smoking, and burning oil, or have my case crack like that. Money is kinda short, but ill try to get the rod. But Ill try to see if I can shake out whatever it is 2morrow.