85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
#9381
#9382
Hey TrailRider, bleeding the front brakes is real easy. I work at advance autoparts and borrowed one of the vaccum bleeder rental tools. If you go get one of those all you gotta do is hook the hose to the caliper you are bleeding, pump it and apply vaccum, pump the lever for the brakes and open the bleeder, you don't have to worry about air gettig back in because of the vaccum. If you can't get one of these just attach a hose to the caliper you want to bleed and stick the other end in a container of brake fluid, then pump the brakes, hold the pressure with the lever, open the bleeder and close it after a second. Repeat this until all air is removed from the system. Hope this helps.
#9383
Hey TrailRider, bleeding the front brakes is real easy. I work at advance autoparts and borrowed one of the vaccum bleeder rental tools. If you go get one of those all you gotta do is hook the hose to the caliper you are bleeding, pump it and apply vaccum, pump the lever for the brakes and open the bleeder, you don't have to worry about air gettig back in because of the vaccum. If you can't get one of these just attach a hose to the caliper you want to bleed and stick the other end in a container of brake fluid, then pump the brakes, hold the pressure with the lever, open the bleeder and close it after a second. Repeat this until all air is removed from the system. Hope this helps.
#9384
New pics posted in my resto album. Got a wake up call from an A-10 Warthog last month and a wake up call from a B-2 stealth bomber. Got a pic in there of my son standing next to one of the aircraft that i have flown it at my old home Rickenbacker AFB, home of the 121st Air Refueling Wing.
#9385
I believe its around $40. The way it works is you put the money down for the tool then when you bring it back to the store you get your money all your money back so the rental is essentially free. You can buy one to for around the same price it makes bleeding any brakes way easier, alot less cursing involved haha.
#9386
Time for another thrilling installment of diagnose the problem!!!
Today's subject: Idling...
Heres the deal, my zuk starts right up first or second kick, rarely even need to choke. I just put in a new piston, rings, top end gaskets, valve seals, etc.... so its running good. Upon starting it idles well. I believe i have the carb set appropriately (2 full turns out +/- a half turn) because as i said, it idles and runs well. However, after a while of riding hard...maybe 15-20 mins, it acts like it doesnt want to idle. You have to keep it revved to stay running, and as soon as you let it peter out and die you cant start it for a while. The only way to get it to start is to crack the throttle open about 1/3-1/2 as your kicking it over. then it will start right up, but as i said before, you have to keep it revved to stay running... like it isnt getting enough fuel or something.
The only thing that is different from before is i filled the gas tank up with gas out of the tank at our farm, which i belive may be 85 octane (but not positive) as opposed to the typical 87 from the gas station that i would normally be running.
The only solution i can come up with is its the gas and i need to add octane booster to see if it solves the problem, maybe some sea foam would be a good idea.
Anyone else???
Today's subject: Idling...
Heres the deal, my zuk starts right up first or second kick, rarely even need to choke. I just put in a new piston, rings, top end gaskets, valve seals, etc.... so its running good. Upon starting it idles well. I believe i have the carb set appropriately (2 full turns out +/- a half turn) because as i said, it idles and runs well. However, after a while of riding hard...maybe 15-20 mins, it acts like it doesnt want to idle. You have to keep it revved to stay running, and as soon as you let it peter out and die you cant start it for a while. The only way to get it to start is to crack the throttle open about 1/3-1/2 as your kicking it over. then it will start right up, but as i said before, you have to keep it revved to stay running... like it isnt getting enough fuel or something.
The only thing that is different from before is i filled the gas tank up with gas out of the tank at our farm, which i belive may be 85 octane (but not positive) as opposed to the typical 87 from the gas station that i would normally be running.
The only solution i can come up with is its the gas and i need to add octane booster to see if it solves the problem, maybe some sea foam would be a good idea.
Anyone else???
#9387
Time for another thrilling installment of diagnose the problem!!!
Today's subject: Idling...
Heres the deal, my zuk starts right up first or second kick, rarely even need to choke. I just put in a new piston, rings, top end gaskets, valve seals, etc.... so its running good. Upon starting it idles well. I believe i have the carb set appropriately (2 full turns out +/- a half turn) because as i said, it idles and runs well. However, after a while of riding hard...maybe 15-20 mins, it acts like it doesnt want to idle. You have to keep it revved to stay running, and as soon as you let it peter out and die you cant start it for a while. The only way to get it to start is to crack the throttle open about 1/3-1/2 as your kicking it over. then it will start right up, but as i said before, you have to keep it revved to stay running... like it isnt getting enough fuel or something.
The only thing that is different from before is i filled the gas tank up with gas out of the tank at our farm, which i belive may be 85 octane (but not positive) as opposed to the typical 87 from the gas station that i would normally be running.
The only solution i can come up with is its the gas and i need to add octane booster to see if it solves the problem, maybe some sea foam would be a good idea.
Anyone else???
Today's subject: Idling...
Heres the deal, my zuk starts right up first or second kick, rarely even need to choke. I just put in a new piston, rings, top end gaskets, valve seals, etc.... so its running good. Upon starting it idles well. I believe i have the carb set appropriately (2 full turns out +/- a half turn) because as i said, it idles and runs well. However, after a while of riding hard...maybe 15-20 mins, it acts like it doesnt want to idle. You have to keep it revved to stay running, and as soon as you let it peter out and die you cant start it for a while. The only way to get it to start is to crack the throttle open about 1/3-1/2 as your kicking it over. then it will start right up, but as i said before, you have to keep it revved to stay running... like it isnt getting enough fuel or something.
The only thing that is different from before is i filled the gas tank up with gas out of the tank at our farm, which i belive may be 85 octane (but not positive) as opposed to the typical 87 from the gas station that i would normally be running.
The only solution i can come up with is its the gas and i need to add octane booster to see if it solves the problem, maybe some sea foam would be a good idea.
Anyone else???
#9388
I had the same problem where it would die and not start. My valves needed adjustment. After that, it idled fine and kickstarted great.
On another note. I'm picking up some new parts tomorrow off an lt250r. I checked and all those parts should work, I just have to use the mounting bracket off mine for the rear caliper.
Heres what I'm getting:
1. Rear Caliper (Mines Broken) His works Perfectly
2. Left Clutch/ Parking Brake Lever and Cables (Mine are Junk)
3. Petcock (Its for my yfm80, not lt230)
4. Spark Plug Coil/Cap
5. Twist Throttle
On another note. I'm picking up some new parts tomorrow off an lt250r. I checked and all those parts should work, I just have to use the mounting bracket off mine for the rear caliper.
Heres what I'm getting:
1. Rear Caliper (Mines Broken) His works Perfectly
2. Left Clutch/ Parking Brake Lever and Cables (Mine are Junk)
3. Petcock (Its for my yfm80, not lt230)
4. Spark Plug Coil/Cap
5. Twist Throttle
#9389
Trailrider, theres an easier way to bleed them without the vacuum bleeder (Ive never cared for them). Just pump the handle a bunch of times and then hold it down while opening the bleeder. Just do that a few times until the fluid comes out clear, and then switch to the other side. Make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry on you though!
#9390
Octane booster is fine. Your carb does need fine tuning. I run nothing but 92 octane in all of my toys. Try to take your fuel screw out a quarter and see how it runs. If it does not change or gets worse then you are running fat and need to lean the mix a quarter turn past your starting point.