Thanx for your input randy.
You couldn't be more right about the dealer not nowing a dang thing.
I looked at the manual and the diagram that was in your link and it doesn't seem to me that you would even have to touch the seals or bearings to get that caliper bracket off.
I did however beat the holy crap out of it with a hammer and it didn't budge.
The dealership also said that they used a torch to heat it up when tryin to break it loose.
Like you said, theyt ain't worth a sh*t.
So I guess tonight I'll start by taking off my tire, caliper and rotor and see of I can just beat the bracket off with a sledge hammer, since I can't get it to turn maybe I can get it off and then clean it up and put it back on.
I asked the dealer about a chain and those suckers wanted 90 bucks for a chain, I asked how they could justify that when I can order a new one off ebay for 20 dollars, and then dude said that his chain was an o ring chain and far superior to the non o ring chain sold on ebay, I'm not thinkin that I'm going back to that particular dealership, I'll get my parts elsewhere.
And aparently I'll also be doing all of my mech. work myself .
Seems that this ends up happening with all my toys.
I'll post when I finish my tear down an let you know how it goes.

P.S. even with the loose chain I had no problems keepin up with my buddies yfz450, an outlaw450, and a newer quadsport 400.
I am becoming very impressed with this little machine.

 

The dealerships are just groups of salesmen. And they hire underqualified mechancis and underpay them in many cases.

You can get a really nice chain fron rockymountainatv. The Primary Drive brand chain. I LOVE mine! Its light weight, and very low friction (non-oring one anyway), and cheap. I also bought an o-ring version for the Lakota since I don't need every ounce of HP from it. The o-ring chains are VERY stiff and suck a lot of HP out. X-ring chains may be better, but they're so expensive that I don't want to find out. I'll just stick with the non-ringed chains and replace them every so often. I like having a new chain every now n then anyway.

Did you try getting the c-clip out? I'd get a screwdriver or punch and find those holes in the clip and try to beat it out of there. Then you can tap the bracket to the side. Or you can heat the bracket and leave the carrier as cool as you can get it and then try beating it. The problem you'll have eventually by beating it is you won't be able to get the bolts back in the hole since the steel will squish after a while. Keep that in mind. Maybe you should keep the bolts in the holes while you hammer on it. You also might try to bolt a long piece of steel or somehow attach it to the bracket so you could get a helper to try to turn it while you beat on it. A scissor jack might help too if you happen to have a small car around that still has the jack in the trunk. PB Blaster penetrating oil might help too.

I can outrun a stock warrior, but not one with a good pipe and bigger carb. I've never went up against a 450. I would think a 450 would be pretty fast. Are you sure your buddies know how to open them up? But yeah, I don't think 230's get the respect they deserve. All this talk is making me want to ride mine again. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] I've been in a "funk" lately and not really wanting to do anything.

 

Alright, so I'm hoping to get the Cobra Exhaust pipe from DK pretty soon. for those who have it, how loud is it and how does it sound? My cousin has an '88 or '89 250X with a DG pipe on it and its loud! He sounds like an airplane if you're listening to him coming at you on the road. Most would say its too loud, but it really isn't, I like it.

Also what jets do I get for the stock carb with the Cobra Pipe and UNI filter?

Can anyone post a video or a sound clip of a 230 with the cobra pipe?

Also has anyone tried the Sparky spark arrestor from Cobra? How does it affect the sound/ performance?

And what kind of performance changes will I see? Lastly, do I switch to a 13/39 tooth setup to maximize performance with the new pipe? I will have 22" Kenda Klaw XC's all the way around.

thanks

edit: One more thing, has anyone tried the Cobra 4-stroke system vs the Cobra Megaphone? Is it just chrome vs Black? Both say reverse cone design.

edit #2: For the sprockets I do trail riding with quite a few hills and I've noticed I'm usually in an area where I'm bogging 4th and revving 3rd. Maybe a 13-40?

 

I don't know much about cobra pipes, but I know the idea of reverse cones is a bad one. Reverse cones adds backpressure and doesn't take away any noise, so why have them?

GA only has 2 rules for ATVs. Have brakes, and have a muffler. That's the way I like it. No helmet law or anything, but you better be quiet! Noise makers just pisses everybody off and gives atvs a bad rap.

Your best bet is to pop a hole in the spark arrestor of your stock muffler. It will outflow anything but a straight pipe or maybe a super high-dollar muffler, but those cheap mufflers ain't worth the money in my opinion.

Nobody knows what jets to get. You'd have to just see how it runs once you get the pipe on. There are just too many variables.

Everybody likes the 13/39 pretty well around here, but I don't know about 22 inch tires. That may be a bit high of a ratio with those big tires. You can't get a 40 unless you special order it from sprocket specialists. 39 and 41 are the stock ones you can find on ebay. You're going to have 4th gear problems no matter what you do. 4th gear was designed wrong and Suzuki changed it in 1989. About the only thing you can do is gear it down enough that 4th doesn't bog, but then 1st and 2nd are worthless. I'm still working on gearing myself. Its tough to get it perfect with such a small engine.

 

we weren't even close to opening them up, we were running pretty tight trails, maybe I should have mentioned that.
By the way the stealership sux donkey.
I got home from work today and started with the 230, tore the brake caliper off and jacked it up, I didn't even use anymore penatrating oil on it.
I also removed the rotor so as not to damage it, after that I smacked the caliper bracket and go figure, it moved.
I mean its pretty seized but, I don't see why lil' ol' me' at hoe in my humble garage can do somthing the dealership couldn't.
I definitly believe you about the dealership, at least the lesson did'nt cost me more than 35$.

 

I'm surprised you got out so cheap. $35 is like half price or something. But anyway, Good Job! Glad you got it! Now, why did we want it loose again? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JustRandy

I don't know much about cobra pipes, but I know the idea of reverse cones is a bad one. Reverse cones adds backpressure and doesn't take away any noise, so why have them?



GA only has 2 rules for ATVs. Have brakes, and have a muffler. That's the way I like it. No helmet law or anything, but you better be quiet! Noise makers just pisses everybody off and gives atvs a bad rap.



Your best bet is to pop a hole in the spark arrestor of your stock muffler. It will outflow anything but a straight pipe or maybe a super high-dollar muffler, but those cheap mufflers ain't worth the money in my opinion.



Nobody knows what jets to get. You'd have to just see how it runs once you get the pipe on. There are just too many variables.



Everybody likes the 13/39 pretty well around here, but I don't know about 22 inch tires. That may be a bit high of a ratio with those big tires. You can't get a 40 unless you special order it from sprocket specialists. 39 and 41 are the stock ones you can find on ebay. You're going to have 4th gear problems no matter what you do. 4th gear was designed wrong and Suzuki changed it in 1989. About the only thing you can do is gear it down enough that 4th doesn't bog, but then 1st and 2nd are worthless. I'm still working on gearing myself. Its tough to get it perfect with such a small engine.</end quote></div>

I'm sure they have to cancel at least a little sound, certainly as much, if not more than a glass pack or something. Here's a pic I found of one torn apart:

What do the internals of the stock pipe look like? With how quiet they are, they've got to produce a fair amount of back pressure. Many sites I've seen have claimed a decent power gain with the Reverse cone megaphone pipes.

Also, I understand that loud ATVs can bother people, but most of the locations where I ride in MN aren't close enough to people to bother them.

And not true about the sprockets, DK has 40 tooth sprockets available from Sunstar (80-659-40), Parts Unl. (8-911-40), and JT Sprockets (81-045-40)

Maybe a 12-40 or a 13-40?

 

Wow, that's a cobra huh... Nice pic, thanks! I see its not really a reverse cone, but a glass pack with the outer shell being a cone (purely for looks I bet). So, its basically a straight thru pipe, however the outer shell is small and can only absorb so much sound. The bigger the outer shell, the more sound it can absorb (and the lower sounding it will be too). Also, the longer it is, the more sound it can pack away.

Here's how I did mine:



Top is a stock Warrior muffler. Next down is a Jardine for a quadsport. Next is a driveshaft I found at a house I bought. Last is a stock quadsport muffler (sorta hacked up).



Pipe with some holes drilled in it. Looks about right... I read that Harley uses 8 rows of holes, so I went by that.



Gettin ready to wrap.



I read that stainless steel wool protects the fiberglass from blowing out, but I only had regular steel wool, so I used that. Later PG told me he knew a guy that stuffed his muffler with steel wool and caused a fire. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] Oops. Oh well, hasn't happened to me so far.



Next is the fiberglass matting I had. Its pretty thick and should last a long time. Kinda looks like a stoggie, lol.



Nope, fiberglass doesn't burn.



Wrap n stuff! Used some kind of wire screen to hold it together to make it easier to stuff.



Welded on the brackets and put some high temp black paint on.... Doesn't look too bad for stuff I had laying around.

Performance is great! I had to drill my main jet up several sizes after installing it. Nice n quiet just putting around... I could sneak up on you as long as you didn't see me,,, but open up the throttle and it screams pretty good.

Oh, its not as heavy as it looks either. I'd guess somewhere around 3-4 lbs.... I know its not as heavy as a 5lb barbell plate. Driveshafts are light. And the stiff, round design makes the most sense holding in the pressure (sound = pressure). The flat sides of on oval will flex and let the sound out.

If I'd known it was going to work so well, I would have bought a bigger pipe rather than using the driveshaft I had laying around.

 

After seeing the pic, I'd say get it if its not too much money. It should flow better than stock, but since its on the small side, I bet it will be pretty loud.

Here is the spark arrestor and stock muffler cut up:



Here's my leafblower illustrating that reverse magephones add resistence to airflow:



Here's a Jardine next to a stock.... The stock ran much better and was quieter:



The Jardine is not a glasspack, but is a reverse cone and would have been a total waste of 50 bucks if I didn't need the header pipe. The stock pipe will run circles around the Jardine.

 

A couple more pics. Surprisingly, that baffle doesn't add much resistence to flow at all. I tested it on the leaf blower and couldn't believe it did so well. The spark arrestor is awful though. If you can just take the spark arrestor out, the stock would not be a bad muffler at all. Can't beat a glass pack though.