Hey EdKatt,

I have the Standard Aluminum Alloy.

EagerJeeper,

I know you mentioned the stock gearing in your opinion was just too low. You may be right. Suz could've started off at a 41T or 43T.

If I had a connection I would try a 50T or higher, but you're really beginning to loose that clearance, which reminds me.....The Stock 37T, from end of tooth to tooth is about 6"(6 2/16") and the 48T is 8". Hope this helps.

 

I would go with the toughest material you can find. I like the solid steel sprocket,with the bigger diameteryou are losing some ground clearance. Bouncing off rocks in the rocky areas that we ride it holds up really well.

 

Where can i buy the K&N Filter at? Whats the part number?

Where can i buy the main and pilot jets? What are the part numbers

 

Which gear in your opinion would be best? I have already put on the whole CT package. I have the DG bumper, installing nerf bars off an LT80, and having custom A-arms built 2+1 and Works shocks. Also, what is the best tire and wheel combo? Part #'s? I want to do everything possible. Any other suggestions. My 5 year old races the Quadcross series in So.Cal and Arizona.

Thanks for everyones info. This has been very helpful so far.

 

WHOA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
DO NOT ORDER A 415-48 through the internet that is the wrong part # that is for a 520 chain !!!!!
CAll and make your orders.. The part # is 483z-415-48
Titan Tough take 7-10 to build before shipping the website has not been updated so i order the standard aluminum...
Call up Sprocket Specialist people there are really helpful and know there stuff...

 

Is the 48 better than the 43 for racing MX?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: RIDE!
Lastly, I cut the chain at 87 links (88 total with the master link). With it completely loosened, it barely comes off, so you may have to remove the master if you ever need to remove the chain. If you go 89 links (90 w/the master) you may not be able to tighten the chain where you want it when you're adjusting it.</end quote></div>


Hey Ride so if I go with 88 links, 89 with the master, do you think that would put the chain at the right length?

 

50RACER....thats alot of money to sink into a ltz50..........ive done a buttload of work to make my sons faster and a stock drr 50 will out run it all day.......id check out drr50 or the apex long travel 50 if your seriously chasing points, they both are two strokes, 40+ inches wide disc brakes and are more of a race bike than you can ever make the zuki........this season my son is 4 and we are mostly racing youth events for seat time, over the winter we will be buying the drr to race for points

 

i shaved my head .015, which should put compression over 9 something theres a formula for exact numbers but requires way to much math so in talking with my machine shop guy we guesstimated ................ the reason you cant get greedy with shaving is if you go much more than .015 you will run out of adjustment at the valves ......by shaving the head your putting the the rocker arm adjusters lower on the pushrod effectively closing the gap at the top valve stem, now granted you have some thread to back them off and maintain your valve lash but you cant get greedy, .015 is safe......................and safe is better than sorry

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JPLLTZ50

i shaved my head .015, which should put compression over 9 something theres a formula for exact numbers but requires way to much math so in talking with my machine shop guy we guesstimated ................ the reason you cant get greedy with shaving is if you go much more than .015 you will run out of adjustment at the valves ......by shaving the head your putting the the rocker arm adjusters lower on the pushrod effectively closing the gap at the top valve stem, now granted you have some thread to back them off and maintain your valve lash but you cant get greedy, .015 is safe......................and safe is better than sorry</end quote></div>

And are you happy with the performance? Would you do it again?