85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
#1542
12-04-2007, 06:06 PM
85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: mjlar94
**** i forgot to mention... im not sure if its valves contributing to this but the 22.5 on the TM28 setup i have is waaaay too rich once it warms up... (fouling plugs out) plus a big bog if you thrash the throttle open fast.. I had to get roll started a good 5 times that ride.</end quote></div>
That was my problem as well when removing my big bore. Way too rich. I just put the carb on the shelf and went back to stocker. It worked very well on my big bore and didnt want the hassle of rejetting it in a month when i put my new motor on. Guess that big bore uses more of the function that carb supplied
**** i forgot to mention... im not sure if its valves contributing to this but the 22.5 on the TM28 setup i have is waaaay too rich once it warms up... (fouling plugs out) plus a big bog if you thrash the throttle open fast.. I had to get roll started a good 5 times that ride.</end quote></div>
That was my problem as well when removing my big bore. Way too rich. I just put the carb on the shelf and went back to stocker. It worked very well on my big bore and didnt want the hassle of rejetting it in a month when i put my new motor on. Guess that big bore uses more of the function that carb supplied
#1543
12-04-2007, 10:41 PM
#1544
12-04-2007, 10:46 PM
85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: mjlar94
Screw a rock crawler, how 'bout a 13B dune buggy running on webers?</end quote></div>
1) 509 might be too big for a buggy. A 2-liter bottle will fit in the cylinder and have plenty of wiggle room. I designed to whole engine for a truck anyway (8000-10,000lbs was the design).
2) No dunes around here to ride. All mountains. Something about rock crawling and super low gears does it for me I guess.
3) I don't think a buggy is very streetable. It may or may not be legal, but sucks driving it on the road. It would be just something else taking up space in the yard that had no other use except for dunes. A truck would pull stumps out of the ground if nothing else. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Screw a rock crawler, how 'bout a 13B dune buggy running on webers?</end quote></div>
1) 509 might be too big for a buggy. A 2-liter bottle will fit in the cylinder and have plenty of wiggle room. I designed to whole engine for a truck anyway (8000-10,000lbs was the design).
2) No dunes around here to ride. All mountains. Something about rock crawling and super low gears does it for me I guess.
3) I don't think a buggy is very streetable. It may or may not be legal, but sucks driving it on the road. It would be just something else taking up space in the yard that had no other use except for dunes. A truck would pull stumps out of the ground if nothing else. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#1545
12-04-2007, 10:52 PM
85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
Your valves sound ok (I do my valves just like you did). I doubt the hotcams is much different than stock. I think 22.5 is too big. Thats why I special ordered a 10 and a 12.5. I just got my new stator installed. I ordered a headlight off ebay. When the tires and headlight get here, I will start messing with my carb again. Until then it will just sit in the garage on its 2 flatazz tires collecting dust.
#1546
12-04-2007, 11:57 PM
85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
Randy--
perfect timing to bring up lights....
Here's a summary of my electrical wiring "as-is" from how i bought it.. lol..
Turning the light/kill switch to off is actually run. and run is kill.
Headlight was chopped, and the orange/black alternator wires as well - I was told they do work fine he just didn't like the "ugly" light. (I taped them up REALLY GOOD before riding it)
Couple of questions about the lights since you got yours apart already (i hope..)
Where is the regulator on an 86 sport chain-driven model?.. The clymer is junk. I don't know where to look. I am under the assumption that it's been chopped off of mine.
I'm missing the tail light too. Which doesnt concern me that much. I'll be digging for dead wires and pull out any extras that I dont need from the tail end.
The wiring diagrams state 45w/45w. Meaning 45w low is used and opening the high circuit means both are opened using a total of 90w?.. I could use 2 sets of ricer fog lights for a car instead and wire those to low/high switch (may give better lighting?).. as long as i dont strain the load capacity of the charging circuit.. although i do have the stock headlight, my buddy says it sucks because it "turns" with your turn.. anyways, I like the idea of adjustable, directional lights.
If I don't happen to have a regulator. Does anyone here have a spare?
Looking for quick wiring advice on the CDI/coil/switch section..
Got 3 wires (I think are from the CDI box.. 2 black /w white stripes and a blue /w white stripe)
Blue with white stripe currently wires to the kill switch and the black white wire from the kill switch goes into the coil.. anyways I was just wondering if everyone else has 2 black w/ white stripe wires coming out of the shielding and how it's wired. Which wires on which side's of the coil if you were standing in front?
I think Blue /w white stripe goes on right side, black /w white on left to frame - or to the kill switch black /w white stripe and the other end to frame.
I wouldn't be asking if it was urgent I have lights this weekend! (my flip last sunday..)
perfect timing to bring up lights....
Here's a summary of my electrical wiring "as-is" from how i bought it.. lol..
Turning the light/kill switch to off is actually run. and run is kill.
Headlight was chopped, and the orange/black alternator wires as well - I was told they do work fine he just didn't like the "ugly" light. (I taped them up REALLY GOOD before riding it)
Couple of questions about the lights since you got yours apart already (i hope..)
Where is the regulator on an 86 sport chain-driven model?.. The clymer is junk. I don't know where to look. I am under the assumption that it's been chopped off of mine.
I'm missing the tail light too. Which doesnt concern me that much. I'll be digging for dead wires and pull out any extras that I dont need from the tail end.
The wiring diagrams state 45w/45w. Meaning 45w low is used and opening the high circuit means both are opened using a total of 90w?.. I could use 2 sets of ricer fog lights for a car instead and wire those to low/high switch (may give better lighting?).. as long as i dont strain the load capacity of the charging circuit.. although i do have the stock headlight, my buddy says it sucks because it "turns" with your turn.. anyways, I like the idea of adjustable, directional lights.
If I don't happen to have a regulator. Does anyone here have a spare?
Looking for quick wiring advice on the CDI/coil/switch section..
Got 3 wires (I think are from the CDI box.. 2 black /w white stripes and a blue /w white stripe)
Blue with white stripe currently wires to the kill switch and the black white wire from the kill switch goes into the coil.. anyways I was just wondering if everyone else has 2 black w/ white stripe wires coming out of the shielding and how it's wired. Which wires on which side's of the coil if you were standing in front?
I think Blue /w white stripe goes on right side, black /w white on left to frame - or to the kill switch black /w white stripe and the other end to frame.
I wouldn't be asking if it was urgent I have lights this weekend! (my flip last sunday..)
#1547
12-05-2007, 12:08 AM
85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
ugh ok.. Wires not used ont he cdi.. Black/yellow (by its self ended in a butt connector taped off)
One of the black/white wires which I have bolted to frame
Other blac/white to coil.
Blue/white is currently disconnected, but I'm under the assumption it goes to the other coil terminal...?
Orange and black are open from the mag right now.
Thats where I'm at.
One of the black/white wires which I have bolted to frame
Other blac/white to coil.
Blue/white is currently disconnected, but I'm under the assumption it goes to the other coil terminal...?
Orange and black are open from the mag right now.
Thats where I'm at.
#1548
12-05-2007, 12:14 AM
85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
Man, I'm slow, lol... Been working on this thing since march and you already caught up to me. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
Well, I'm fairly sure the light/kill thingy that bolts to the handlebars on mine is "not for mine" because it also contains a starter button. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] So, I just have a bunch of wires hanging down and a roll of electrical tape sitting on one of the tires and that's where I stopped, lol. Luckily, I do know what goes where, just got too lazy to actually finish the job (plus its cold outside and I'm too lazy to build a fire n all that).
Yep, I got the headlight tore apart. I'm missing the taillight too, but dont care. I took all the wires heading to the back off to save confusion.
No, 45 is used at all times. To use both at the same time might burn up your lighting coil. I think 50 watts is the most you can do. Low beam just aims down and high beam up - they are the same wattage. I like the handlebar mounted lights too. I don't like the ones that just mount to the frame (like the old mojaves that seemed to never figure out what honda and suzuki where doing).
The regulator bolts to the frame in the very front (on the flat piece the also has the bearing for the handlebars - to the left of the bearing). It looks like aluminum cooling fins and has one wire coming out of it. You can find them on ebay pretty easily - probably for 5 bucks coz everybody has them and nobody really needs them.
I continue this in another post with the technical bs stuff.
Well, I'm fairly sure the light/kill thingy that bolts to the handlebars on mine is "not for mine" because it also contains a starter button. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] So, I just have a bunch of wires hanging down and a roll of electrical tape sitting on one of the tires and that's where I stopped, lol. Luckily, I do know what goes where, just got too lazy to actually finish the job (plus its cold outside and I'm too lazy to build a fire n all that).
Yep, I got the headlight tore apart. I'm missing the taillight too, but dont care. I took all the wires heading to the back off to save confusion.
No, 45 is used at all times. To use both at the same time might burn up your lighting coil. I think 50 watts is the most you can do. Low beam just aims down and high beam up - they are the same wattage. I like the handlebar mounted lights too. I don't like the ones that just mount to the frame (like the old mojaves that seemed to never figure out what honda and suzuki where doing).
The regulator bolts to the frame in the very front (on the flat piece the also has the bearing for the handlebars - to the left of the bearing). It looks like aluminum cooling fins and has one wire coming out of it. You can find them on ebay pretty easily - probably for 5 bucks coz everybody has them and nobody really needs them.
I continue this in another post with the technical bs stuff.
#1549
12-05-2007, 12:40 AM
85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
Ok, if you had a regulator, it would plug into the gray wire circuit. The gray wires get their juice from the on/off switch for the lights. Light switch off, no regulator, no lights, circuit dead! The on/off switch gets its power from the orange wire coming out of the magneto. Turn the switch on and juice goes from the orange to the grays and any excess goes to the frame if the regulator decides so.
Now, in the wire diagram, the lights get their power from the dimmer switch (which I dont have and at least one other guy here doesnt have either,,, and its sounding sorta like you dont either). The dimmer gets its power from the grays and sends it out in either the yellow or the white (depending if high or low beam).
That's pretty much it. All the black with white stripes are ground. The black with yellow coming from the CDI connects to the kill switch. When killed, the B/Y connects B/W together and grounds that wire, killing the engine.
The problem I ran into (and mostly while I stopped with wires dangling) is that I dont have a dimmer. So, I have to pick which beam I want (High beam I think). And I have to figure out how to hook up everything so the regulator is shut off when the lights turn off (so the orange wire it not supplying power to a regulator that isnt doing anything - sapping power and wasting the regulator).
What I came up with is running the orange wire to the gray coming out of the switches. Power would go to the switch first and can be cut off when not in use. Then, pick a wire of the yellow and whites you want (yellow is high beam) and hook it to the one that gets power when you turn on your light switch. You also have to hook the regulator to that circuit. (twist the yellow wire and the gray wire and the wire you get juice from when you turn on the lights - who knows what color you have - mine happens to be yellow). Hook all the black n white wires to ground and you should have lights.
Now, in the wire diagram, the lights get their power from the dimmer switch (which I dont have and at least one other guy here doesnt have either,,, and its sounding sorta like you dont either). The dimmer gets its power from the grays and sends it out in either the yellow or the white (depending if high or low beam).
That's pretty much it. All the black with white stripes are ground. The black with yellow coming from the CDI connects to the kill switch. When killed, the B/Y connects B/W together and grounds that wire, killing the engine.
The problem I ran into (and mostly while I stopped with wires dangling) is that I dont have a dimmer. So, I have to pick which beam I want (High beam I think). And I have to figure out how to hook up everything so the regulator is shut off when the lights turn off (so the orange wire it not supplying power to a regulator that isnt doing anything - sapping power and wasting the regulator).
What I came up with is running the orange wire to the gray coming out of the switches. Power would go to the switch first and can be cut off when not in use. Then, pick a wire of the yellow and whites you want (yellow is high beam) and hook it to the one that gets power when you turn on your light switch. You also have to hook the regulator to that circuit. (twist the yellow wire and the gray wire and the wire you get juice from when you turn on the lights - who knows what color you have - mine happens to be yellow). Hook all the black n white wires to ground and you should have lights.
#1550
12-05-2007, 12:44 AM
85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: mjlar94
ugh ok.. Wires not used ont he cdi.. Black/yellow (by its self ended in a butt connector taped off)
One of the black/white wires which I have bolted to frame
Other blac/white to coil.
Blue/white is currently disconnected, but I'm under the assumption it goes to the other coil terminal...?
Orange and black are open from the mag right now.
Thats where I'm at.</end quote></div>
Black n yellow is the kill switch. Ground it and the engine dies.
Black n white and white with blue coming from the CDI goes to the coil. All other Black n whites are grounded.
Orange is the lighting coil power. Black is its ground.
ugh ok.. Wires not used ont he cdi.. Black/yellow (by its self ended in a butt connector taped off)
One of the black/white wires which I have bolted to frame
Other blac/white to coil.
Blue/white is currently disconnected, but I'm under the assumption it goes to the other coil terminal...?
Orange and black are open from the mag right now.
Thats where I'm at.</end quote></div>
Black n yellow is the kill switch. Ground it and the engine dies.
Black n white and white with blue coming from the CDI goes to the coil. All other Black n whites are grounded.
Orange is the lighting coil power. Black is its ground.