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85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.

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  #9381  
Old 10-21-2010, 09:50 PM
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yeah thats fine ,TM. let me know what you got and what parts you need. And if anyone has figured out how the hell to bleed the front brakes let me know. it always is a pain in my butt and takes forever.

i will be back on line in a bit
 
  #9382  
Old 10-22-2010, 07:04 PM
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Hey TrailRider, bleeding the front brakes is real easy. I work at advance autoparts and borrowed one of the vaccum bleeder rental tools. If you go get one of those all you gotta do is hook the hose to the caliper you are bleeding, pump it and apply vaccum, pump the lever for the brakes and open the bleeder, you don't have to worry about air gettig back in because of the vaccum. If you can't get one of these just attach a hose to the caliper you want to bleed and stick the other end in a container of brake fluid, then pump the brakes, hold the pressure with the lever, open the bleeder and close it after a second. Repeat this until all air is removed from the system. Hope this helps.
 
  #9383  
Old 10-22-2010, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by EatSleepDreamLT230S
Hey TrailRider, bleeding the front brakes is real easy. I work at advance autoparts and borrowed one of the vaccum bleeder rental tools. If you go get one of those all you gotta do is hook the hose to the caliper you are bleeding, pump it and apply vaccum, pump the lever for the brakes and open the bleeder, you don't have to worry about air gettig back in because of the vaccum. If you can't get one of these just attach a hose to the caliper you want to bleed and stick the other end in a container of brake fluid, then pump the brakes, hold the pressure with the lever, open the bleeder and close it after a second. Repeat this until all air is removed from the system. Hope this helps.
that helps alot man. i live next to an Advanced Auto Parts, well a couple of miles away. how much was it to rent the tool?
 
  #9384  
Old 10-22-2010, 08:58 PM
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New pics posted in my resto album. Got a wake up call from an A-10 Warthog last month and a wake up call from a B-2 stealth bomber. Got a pic in there of my son standing next to one of the aircraft that i have flown it at my old home Rickenbacker AFB, home of the 121st Air Refueling Wing.
 
  #9385  
Old 10-23-2010, 10:11 AM
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I believe its around $40. The way it works is you put the money down for the tool then when you bring it back to the store you get your money all your money back so the rental is essentially free. You can buy one to for around the same price it makes bleeding any brakes way easier, alot less cursing involved haha.
 
  #9386  
Old 10-25-2010, 08:52 AM
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Time for another thrilling installment of diagnose the problem!!!

Today's subject: Idling...

Heres the deal, my zuk starts right up first or second kick, rarely even need to choke. I just put in a new piston, rings, top end gaskets, valve seals, etc.... so its running good. Upon starting it idles well. I believe i have the carb set appropriately (2 full turns out +/- a half turn) because as i said, it idles and runs well. However, after a while of riding hard...maybe 15-20 mins, it acts like it doesnt want to idle. You have to keep it revved to stay running, and as soon as you let it peter out and die you cant start it for a while. The only way to get it to start is to crack the throttle open about 1/3-1/2 as your kicking it over. then it will start right up, but as i said before, you have to keep it revved to stay running... like it isnt getting enough fuel or something.

The only thing that is different from before is i filled the gas tank up with gas out of the tank at our farm, which i belive may be 85 octane (but not positive) as opposed to the typical 87 from the gas station that i would normally be running.

The only solution i can come up with is its the gas and i need to add octane booster to see if it solves the problem, maybe some sea foam would be a good idea.

Anyone else???
 
  #9387  
Old 10-25-2010, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 86zuk
Time for another thrilling installment of diagnose the problem!!!

Today's subject: Idling...

Heres the deal, my zuk starts right up first or second kick, rarely even need to choke. I just put in a new piston, rings, top end gaskets, valve seals, etc.... so its running good. Upon starting it idles well. I believe i have the carb set appropriately (2 full turns out +/- a half turn) because as i said, it idles and runs well. However, after a while of riding hard...maybe 15-20 mins, it acts like it doesnt want to idle. You have to keep it revved to stay running, and as soon as you let it peter out and die you cant start it for a while. The only way to get it to start is to crack the throttle open about 1/3-1/2 as your kicking it over. then it will start right up, but as i said before, you have to keep it revved to stay running... like it isnt getting enough fuel or something.

The only thing that is different from before is i filled the gas tank up with gas out of the tank at our farm, which i belive may be 85 octane (but not positive) as opposed to the typical 87 from the gas station that i would normally be running.

The only solution i can come up with is its the gas and i need to add octane booster to see if it solves the problem, maybe some sea foam would be a good idea.

Anyone else???
Octane booster is fine. Your carb does need fine tuning. I run nothing but 92 octane in all of my toys. Try to take your fuel screw out a quarter and see how it runs. If it does not change or gets worse then you are running fat and need to lean the mix a quarter turn past your starting point.
 
  #9388  
Old 10-25-2010, 11:54 AM
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I had the same problem where it would die and not start. My valves needed adjustment. After that, it idled fine and kickstarted great.

On another note. I'm picking up some new parts tomorrow off an lt250r. I checked and all those parts should work, I just have to use the mounting bracket off mine for the rear caliper.

Heres what I'm getting:
1. Rear Caliper (Mines Broken) His works Perfectly
2. Left Clutch/ Parking Brake Lever and Cables (Mine are Junk)
3. Petcock (Its for my yfm80, not lt230)
4. Spark Plug Coil/Cap
5. Twist Throttle
 
  #9389  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:56 PM
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Trailrider, theres an easier way to bleed them without the vacuum bleeder (Ive never cared for them). Just pump the handle a bunch of times and then hold it down while opening the bleeder. Just do that a few times until the fluid comes out clear, and then switch to the other side. Make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry on you though!
 
  #9390  
Old 10-27-2010, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by tmcauto77
Octane booster is fine. Your carb does need fine tuning. I run nothing but 92 octane in all of my toys. Try to take your fuel screw out a quarter and see how it runs. If it does not change or gets worse then you are running fat and need to lean the mix a quarter turn past your starting point.
I adjusted my fuel ratio as you suggested. i ended up going in a bit with it. before when i cracked the trottle wide open from dead idle it would hesitate a bit and try to die for a sec, now it revvs much better. it doesnt hesitate, it doesnt try to kill the engine, it just revs. thanks for the tip. i havent ridden it enough to see if it helps with the original problem, just around the yard a little bit and ran it in my shed while making the adjustments. We shall see
 


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