85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
#6991
Supply will ramp-up to meet the "unusual demand". Once the demand returns to normal, the price will crash.
Did you try this place? Cheaper Than Dirt - America's Ultimate Shooting Sports Discounter
Did you try this place? Cheaper Than Dirt - America's Ultimate Shooting Sports Discounter
#6993
#6994
hey atvman29, i got a little how-to writeup for ya:
How to tighten up the shift linkage on your 230 (the heavy-duty way):
The stock setup uses cheap rod ends which are "smashed in" (end of shank is mushroomed to stay in):
Over time, this develops play. And that's no good.
Materials - 2x 1/4"-28 Rod Ends, 1/4"-28 Allthread Rod (stainless preffered) - Under $20 from Mcmaster-Carr.
Rod Ends:
Grade B8 Stainless Allthread Rod:
Step 1 - Remove old rod ends from shifter and arm. To do this, center punch the "mushroomed" end of one of the rod end's shanks:
Then drill a small pilot hole:
Then drill out with a 1/4" drill:
Wiggle the assembly around until it comes apart:
Step 2 - Place a new rod end in the shifter hole and weld the shank, and then cut it down a ways (for clearance, using a nut is not an option):
Step 3 - The other side can be done using a nut, just make sure it stays in place. I threadlocked and cotter-pinned mine along with a lock washer, talk about overkill!
Step 4 - Cut allthread down to size. Make sure to have a little adjustment room in there in case you ever want to play with the shift lever height.
Step 5 - The old rubber dust boots fit the new rod ends, USE THEM!!! Plus, it looks nice and oem that way:
Finished assembly:
If your shifter still has play, its probably the pin that the lever mounts on, and that's another write up!
How to tighten up the shift linkage on your 230 (the heavy-duty way):
The stock setup uses cheap rod ends which are "smashed in" (end of shank is mushroomed to stay in):
Over time, this develops play. And that's no good.
Materials - 2x 1/4"-28 Rod Ends, 1/4"-28 Allthread Rod (stainless preffered) - Under $20 from Mcmaster-Carr.
Rod Ends:
Grade B8 Stainless Allthread Rod:
Step 1 - Remove old rod ends from shifter and arm. To do this, center punch the "mushroomed" end of one of the rod end's shanks:
Then drill a small pilot hole:
Then drill out with a 1/4" drill:
Wiggle the assembly around until it comes apart:
Step 2 - Place a new rod end in the shifter hole and weld the shank, and then cut it down a ways (for clearance, using a nut is not an option):
Step 3 - The other side can be done using a nut, just make sure it stays in place. I threadlocked and cotter-pinned mine along with a lock washer, talk about overkill!
Step 4 - Cut allthread down to size. Make sure to have a little adjustment room in there in case you ever want to play with the shift lever height.
Step 5 - The old rubber dust boots fit the new rod ends, USE THEM!!! Plus, it looks nice and oem that way:
Finished assembly:
If your shifter still has play, its probably the pin that the lever mounts on, and that's another write up!
#6995
I understand supply and demand, but the gov't is no longer selling its spent brass to reloaders (American companies) the gov't is now taking its spent brass grinding it up and selling it at a lesser price abroad. I hope this is true, and I am not spreading nra rumors btw!! I am not a "follower" but I guess I may be if it isin't true..........
#6997
Thanks, haha. My shifter had so much play it was driving me crazy. I also gotta fix up my pin pretty soon. It actually looks like the pin has a sleeve bushing around it, but the outer end of the shaft that keeps the snap ring on would prevent it from coming off.
i got to thinking about vince's kit he had to repair the pin, and he said "simple cutting and drilling required". My guess is that he probably means to cut the pin at where the snap ring goes, replace the bushing, and then drill and tap the pin to use a bolt and washer to retain the shifter. Any input?
i got to thinking about vince's kit he had to repair the pin, and he said "simple cutting and drilling required". My guess is that he probably means to cut the pin at where the snap ring goes, replace the bushing, and then drill and tap the pin to use a bolt and washer to retain the shifter. Any input?
#6999
#7000
Well, I got a bit of work done tonight myself. I took off all the plastic and gave the wheeler a thorough cleaning (unfortunately mother nature decided to help some too), and I also de-greased the engine.
After that I cleaned up the birds nest of wires in the front of mine. Used some electrical tape to make it look clean and hold the connections together a little better too.
I'll post a pic of my exhaust dent in a minute.
After that I cleaned up the birds nest of wires in the front of mine. Used some electrical tape to make it look clean and hold the connections together a little better too.
I'll post a pic of my exhaust dent in a minute.