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Ford Crew cabs w/7.3 Diesel

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  #12071  
Old 09-21-2007, 10:10 PM
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Default Ford Crew cabs w/7.3 Diesel

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Trasher

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: rescuediver



Sounds like a plan to me[IMG][/IMG] Except I advertise "No front Plate[IMG][/IMG]) I pull through the parking stalls[IMG][/IMG] And it's hard to miss the front end of my PSD[IMG][/IMG] I even received a ticket while in court[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] on county property that is only parked in by the deputies! Argh!!!!!</end quote></div>



so much for Brotherhood..........[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif" border="0[/IMG]</end quote></div>

Tell me about it[img]i/expressions/brokenheart.gif[/img] I get so tweaked when I hear smack talk about how "we" look out or cover for each other. I can tell stories about guys who got caught doing stupid things and were treated like everyone else. Heck more often than not, they are treated worse; because they should have known better[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] Not compl..... Ok, I'll get off my soap box[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] and have a [img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img] or [img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img] or [img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img]
 
  #12072  
Old 09-25-2007, 01:22 AM
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Default Ford Crew cabs w/7.3 Diesel

Update[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Well I got the generator on our trailer running last night. Actually started right up with fresh gasoline. (I know that does help[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]) Was messing around trying to find out why the previous owner said it won't generate any power. Well I found out why[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img] He disconnected or better yet, tore apart where the power cablewires come out out the generator[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] and then proceeded to remove the receptical that it should plug into that brings the power to the compartment where the actual power cord is. I've been trying to find on line the installation manual, but it looks like Onan doesn't allow free down loads of it's service manuals. I also found the trailer has a Magnetek Series 900, Model 930-2, 30 converter/charger on it. All this is foreign to me and after reading a lot on the internet, I am more confused than before I started[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] Looks like a trip to a Onan dealer or my trusted rv shop and talk to Jay.
 
  #12073  
Old 09-25-2007, 01:35 AM
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Default Ford Crew cabs w/7.3 Diesel

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: rescuediver

Update[img][/img]



Well I got the generator on our trailer running last night. Actually started right up with fresh gasoline. (I know that does help[img][/img]) Was messing around trying to find out why the previous owner said it won't generate any power. Well I found out why[img][/img] He disconnected or better yet, tore apart where the power cablewires come out out the generator[img][/img][img][/img] and then proceeded to remove the receptical that it should plug into that brings the power to the compartment where the actual power cord is. I've been trying to find on line the installation manual, but it looks like Onan doesn't allow free down loads of it's service manuals. I also found the trailer has a Magnetek Series 900, Model 930-2, 30 converter/charger on it. All this is foreign to me and after reading a lot on the internet, I am more confused than before I started[img][/img] Looks like a trip to a Onan dealer or my trusted rv shop and talk to Jay.</end quote></div>

Yeah, got me stumped on that. Not much comes back on Google. I found one thread on rv.net that the person was saying they only got it to get full power to charge the batteries when running on shore power.

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  #12074  
Old 09-25-2007, 01:43 AM
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I think I have read every thread over there I can get a hit on every which way I did a search. I posted some pictures on my page. For some reason I need to wait for the system to reload before I can approve them. Last time I just hit the approve button[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
What a mess it is. I talked to the previous owner, he really didn't admit to anything. I just can't figure out why he did what he did. He couldn't even remember how the wires connected as they came out of the gray conduit. Last thing I want to do is wire it wrong and cause damage.
 
  #12075  
Old 09-25-2007, 02:21 AM
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Pictures are posted. Hopefully get this fixed and post what it should look like[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
  #12076  
Old 09-25-2007, 02:59 AM
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Default Ford Crew cabs w/7.3 Diesel

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: rescuediver

I think I have read every thread over there I can get a hit on every which way I did a search. I posted some pictures on my page. For some reason I need to wait for the system to reload before I can approve them. Last time I just hit the approve button[img][/img]

What a mess it is. I talked to the previous owner, he really didn't admit to anything. I just can't figure out why he did what he did. He couldn't even remember how the wires connected as they came out of the gray conduit. Last thing I want to do is wire it wrong and cause damage.</end quote></div>

Yikes. It doesn't look too terribly bad though. Looks like they ran parallel wires to reduce wire size (that's why there are 2 blacks (120V) and 2 whites (neutral)). Green is ground.

First of all, that receptacle is mounted on the wrong side of the 4-square cover. Take it off and flip it over. The cover should come out and away from the box adding extra capacity to the box (approx. 6 cubic inches, it will actually be marked). The receptacle itself should be marked to what conductors belong where. The 120V line should be the brass screw. Neutral to the silver screw and ground to the green screw. Ground, I believe, should be to the u-ground pin at the top.

I'm staring at this wiring trying to get my head around it and I think I have it.

Out of the genny you have the pvc flex with the paralleled wires. that goes to a 4S box. From that 4S box you have some Romex to another 4S box with the 125V/30A RV receptacle. The trailer power panel then plugs into this receptacle. All of the wiring should be sized to carry the generator (58A). I believe you can get by with a #6. I need to check with the supervisor to make sure I'm using the right column of the NEC table 310-16. Though RV's are exempt from the NEC. Makes sense to go by it for safety.

Just looking at that Romex it's WAY undersized. It looks like #10 at best. The feed from the generator look like #8, maybe #10. Generator is producing 7000W, so that's about 58 amps. #10 is rated to 30A, so (2)#10 would be rated to 60A.

I think you need #6/(2)#10 from the generator completely through to the power panel. Or at least to that receptacle. I'm assuming the generator has a circuit breaker on it. What size breaker is in the power panel?

One thing is that all of those metallic boxes need to be bonded with the ground wire.

My take on the best thing to do would be to extend the wiring from the generator solidly through to that receptacle. Generally we will pigtail a receptacle. Basically you put short wires coming off of the receptacle and wire nut those to the feeders. But at 30A or bigger, we may run direct. Either way, you'll want to put like a #12 green or bare copper wire directly to the metal 4S boxes and connect that to the ground. This will help to clear a short to that box.

Ugly ASCII art coming up:

Generator ---flex--- Receptacle - Plug ---cord--- Panel

Wow that got to a long post.

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  #12077  
Old 09-25-2007, 03:39 AM
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Default Ford Crew cabs w/7.3 Diesel

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: rescuediver

I think I have read every thread over there I can get a hit on every which way I did a search. I posted some pictures on my page. For some reason I need to wait for the system to reload before I can approve them. Last time I just hit the approve button[img][/img]

What a mess it is. I talked to the previous owner, he really didn't admit to anything. I just can't figure out why he did what he did. He couldn't even remember how the wires connected as they came out of the gray conduit. Last thing I want to do is wire it wrong and cause damage.</end quote></div>

Yeah I don't know why people screw with stuff. I guess maybe because they had it parked at a park for a while, if I recall correctly.

Looks like that cover is sitting there. Might be able to flip it over and screw it down. Most likely a 10-32 or 10-24 screw. But I don't see a female ear there to screw into. You do need a cover for that box with the exposed Romex. My guess is those red wire nuts connected the generator lead to that Romex.

Quick fix looks like you'll need:

3/4" lock ring for the flex into the box.
Then slip that grey bushing that's in the corner between the box and door over the end. That protects the wire.
New red wire nuts for connecting the blacks together and the whites together. Maybe a red or yellow nut for the grounds. Add a #12 from the box to the gen feed and Romex.
4S cover to finish it off.

I'd check that that Romex does connect those two boxes. I'm 90% sure it does.

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  #12078  
Old 09-25-2007, 04:18 PM
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Thanks again for all the information[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] I am going to print it all out and digest it[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] take it all to the trailer and get the answers to the ??? you posted[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
  #12079  
Old 09-25-2007, 04:43 PM
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<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: BlackandRedWarrior

Yikes. It doesn't look too terribly bad though. Looks like they ran parallel wires to reduce wire size (that's why there are 2 blacks (120V) and 2 whites (neutral)). Green is ground.



Understand that[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]



First of all, that receptacle is mounted on the wrong side of the 4-square cover. Take it off and flip it over. The cover should come out and away from the box adding extra capacity to the box (approx. 6 cubic inches, it will actually be marked). The receptacle itself should be marked to what conductors belong where. The 120V line should be the brass screw. Neutral to the silver screw and ground to the green screw. Ground, I believe, should be to the u-ground pin at the top.


I am with you on the cover being wrong. Conductors? meaning wires?
I'll have to check the rest.



I'm staring at this wiring trying to get my head around it and I think I have it.


This was all just spinning in my head[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] You are making sense of it[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]



Out of the genny you have the pvc flex with the paralleled wires. that goes to a 4S box. From that 4S box you have some Romex to another 4S box with the 125V/30A RV receptacle. The trailer power panel then plugs into this receptacle. All of the wiring should be sized to carry the generator (58A). I believe you can get by with a #6. I need to check with the supervisor to make sure I'm using the right column of the NEC table 310-16. Though RV's are exempt from the NEC. Makes sense to go by it for safety.


The 4S box is the receptacle box, if so, I am with you.

Correct about the romex going to another 4S box where the trailer power cord plugs into it. This is behind a panel that says 11-125-volt AC, 60 Hz, 30 Ampheres Supply. Safety is good[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]



Just looking at that Romex it's WAY undersized. It looks like #10 at best. The feed from the generator look like #8, maybe #10. Generator is producing 7000W, so that's about 58 amps. #10 is rated to 30A, so (2)#10 would be rated to 60A.


Don't know if the Romex is stock or has been replaced. I'll get the size. Lost me there[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] Are you saying with two #10's I should be rated at 60A?



I think you need #6/(2)#10 from the generator completely through to the power panel. Or at least to that receptacle. I'm assuming the generator has a circuit breaker on it. What size breaker is in the power panel?


Is it #6? (2) #10? either one? or both? Which receptacle are we talking about? the one with the generator or the one with the trailler power cord? I saw two circuit breakers on the side of the generator. I'll a have to check what they are.



One thing is that all of those metallic boxes need to be bonded with the ground wire.


Will check on that. If not, can I change them to plastic ones to remove metal from the equation?


My take on the best thing to do would be to extend the wiring from the generator solidly through to that receptacle. Generally we will pigtail a receptacle. Basically you put short wires coming off of the receptacle and wire nut those to the feeders. But at 30A or bigger, we may run direct. Either way, you'll want to put like a #12 green or bare copper wire directly to the metal 4S boxes and connect that to the ground. This will help to clear a short to that box.


Ugly ASCII art coming up:



Generator ---flex--- Receptacle - Plug ---cord--- Panel


So, with this statement; your saying just wire the romex directly from the end of the gray conduit, then fbring the other end of the conduit to the receptacle where the power cord is to the trailer?



Wow that got to a long post.</end quote></div>


Very helpful though[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
  #12080  
Old 09-25-2007, 04:52 PM
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Default Ford Crew cabs w/7.3 Diesel

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: BlackandRedWarrior

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: rescuediver



I think I have read every thread over there I can get a hit on every which way I did a search. I posted some pictures on my page. For some reason I need to wait for the system to reload before I can approve them. Last time I just hit the approve button[IMG][/IMG]



What a mess it is. I talked to the previous owner, he really didn't admit to anything. I just can't figure out why he did what he did. He couldn't even remember how the wires connected as they came out of the gray conduit. Last thing I want to do is wire it wrong and cause damage.</end quote></div>



Yeah I don't know why people screw with stuff. I guess maybe because they had it parked at a park for a while, if I recall correctly.



They only used it once or twice a year. And he tries to be a handy-man!


Looks like that cover is sitting there. Might be able to flip it over and screw it down. Most likely a 10-32 or 10-24 screw. But I don't see a female ear there to screw into. You do need a cover for that box with the exposed Romex. My guess is those red wire nuts connected the generator lead to that Romex.


I really don't know, I'll check it out tonight. I think I might have some screws to secure it down. A female ear? Yes I will, don't think I have top at the house, will probably just buy a new one. Your guess is probably correct on the red wire nuts to the Romex.

Quick fix looks like you'll need:



3/4" lock ring for the flex into the box.

I think it's laying next to the box

Then slip that grey bushing that's in the corner between the box and door over the end. That protects the wire.

Ok



New red wire nuts for connecting the blacks together and the whites together. Maybe a red or yellow nut for the grounds. Add a #12 from the box to the gen feed and Romex.
4S cover to finish it off.

Lost me on the #12 from the box to the gen feed and Romex?




I'd check that that Romex does connect those two boxes. I'm 90% sure it does.</end quote></div>


Yes it does
 


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